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Hello all,

 

First I'd like to thank all members for sharing their knowledge, photos, and ideas.  With this being my first layout, I was able to have almost all my questions answered by searching the forums.  Anytime I ran into a problem, there was always someone on here with a solution. Thank you all again!

 

Thought this would be a fun project for me to build and my son to play with.  Here's where I'm at after six months.  All the working accessories, rolling stock, and a steam locomotive still need to be added.  When I run out of things to buy (if at all possible) I'll add TMCC.  

 

I did add two different layout sound systems that come alive when the layout is powered up.  One for the beach scene and another for the city scene.  I plan on adding one more in the passenger station.  These made the layout much more entertaining when trains are not running.  Several accessory controls are secured all around the edge of the layout.  They operate accessories and turn lights on and off in the buildings.  Kids love pushing buttons.  

 

4' W x 13' L x 13' L

 

Here's some photo's:  Enjoy!

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Last edited by Brian Miller OR
Original Post

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Thank you all for your kind words.  The folks on these forums really helped out.  

 

Eddiem:  The skirts came from Innovative Systems in Compton, CA.  Here's the link:  

www.innovative-sys.com

 

These are the Poly Premier Table Skirt w/ Velcro in Hunter Green.  Be advised though, they come long in length.  I think they add a few inches to make sure they fit.  I just tucked the left over around the end under the table or you could cut it. They were very fast to ship.  The total for this table was $200.00 with shipping. Order in about 3' - 4' sections so you have a break in skirt to pull it to the side to access storage.  Also, you can take off sections completely to work under the layout.  I found it better to just call and make the order.

 

jippers:  I used 0-36 curves on the main.  The cross over switches are 0-48.  The engine shed area has a 0-72 switch.  The curve between the engine area and yard is 0-48 with a few straights in there.  The yard I used 0-36 switches to make the yard spurs as long as possible.  I would recommend 0-48 for this.

 

I'm always happy to help.  Thank you all again for your kind words! 

Last edited by Brian Miller OR
Originally Posted by Brian Miller OR:

Hello Makingthegrade,

 

Thank you for your kind words.  I used roofing tar paper for the streets.  Spray glue on the bottom to keep them from bending up.  They can cause some problems when the glue doesn't stick.  But, it's cheap and trims very well with a box knife.  

 


Thanks for the info Brian!  Your roads have a low profile look I'd like to imitate on top of my artificial turf so the roads don't look like they're sitting way above the grass.  Great Job!

Robert

Hello all,

 

Here's some updated photos I thought you may enjoy.  Moved some things around to make room for operating accessories.  MTH crossing flashers and custom made crossings.  Also, one of Lionel's coal loaders.  The welding scene is wired to a switch for the kids to tun on and off.  Much more planned for the future.  Thank you all again for posting you tips and tricks.

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Last edited by Brian Miller OR
Originally Posted by sinclair:

Very nice, what is the grade on the back side, and how far up does it go?

Hello Sinclair,

 

The upgrade is 2.5% over 13 feet.  Ends up at 4".  Level for about 5 feet then down at 2.5% over 13 feet as well.  These numbers may not be exact but it's a good ball park figure.  All done with Woodland Scenics foam risers.  Here's some photos.

 

Hope this helps.

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Last edited by Brian Miller OR
Originally Posted by DoubleDAZ:

Brian,

 

Don't the WS risers come in 2% and 4% grades? How do you adjust them to get 2.5% or 3% grades? Do you just not stretch them the full 24" or something?

Hi Dave,

 

I could not remember the exact numbers.  Just tossed out a ball park figure.  Here's the link:

 

http://www.sceneryexpress.com/.../productinfo/WD1410/

 

I did have to double up the order to fit the width for fastrack.  If I remember correctly, I did have to cut short the riser set to level up to the 4" risers along the back.  

 

The Woodland Scenic riser system works great but can be challenge on a carpet layout.  Finding a way to cover it up was a task in itself.

 

Hope this helps! 

Last edited by Brian Miller OR
Originally Posted by sinclair:

Thanks for the in process photos of the grade.  Do you have your track fastened to the table, or is it just sitting there?  Also, what did you use for the grade crossing?  I used popsicle sticks on mine at one point and over time they warped and would catch the rollers of my locomotives, causing them to derail or stop.

The track is just sitting there.  There are two screws though.  One at the beginning of the grade and another at the end.  They help close the air void where the grade starts and ends.  Not the best idea but it works for now.  I tend to change the track around as I build.  That being the case, I would go crazy removing screws all the time.  Once finished......I'm sure I'll screw it down.

 

I did the same with the crossings.  Hope I don't have the same problem! 

Last edited by Brian Miller OR
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