I am working on a bridge that I want to be able to lift off whenever I want to and put easily back into place. I think I am going to just have two pins that line up with holes to keep it secure and lined up. I would like to also run the electricity through the same pins and hole/sleeve. Does anyone know a product that would work for this?
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I needed the same thing. I bought and watched the OGR video by Barrett on make a hinged drop bridge
I don't temper which video it is but its well worth it.
Does anyone one have a wiring schematic to prevent a loco from traveling to the openEd bridge?
buzz
This is the wiring for our Modular club lift bridge, it removes the power from the adjacent modules and the bridge if it's not latched down.
Attachments
I have a product on my G scale track from Split-Jaw called Bridge Drop-in /Lift-out clamps. You can easily lift out a bridge or track section without worrying about realligning and you don't have to provide a separate feed to the removable section. The track just drops right in plays and stays. They need something like this in O Scale.
Rick
Attachments
I don't temper which video it is but its well worth it.
Does anyone one have a wiring schematic to prevent a loco from traveling to the openEd bridge?
buzz
Just looked it up, its Volume 11 of the backshop series. Here is the link https://ogaugerr.com/shop/backshop-vol-11/
Chris
Did anyone catch the type of connectors or switches used to make and brake contacts
Buzz
In our case, we route wires under the base of the bridge module, there are no make/break connections, it's all done with the relay and the microswitches.
I'm sure there is Buzz, I just was showing what we have.
You can check-out member Susan Deats solution in the below link:
http://www.slsprr.net/features/bridges1.htm
I'm sure there is Buzz, I just was showing what we have.
You can check-out member Susan Deats solution in the below link:
http://www.slsprr.net/features/bridges1.htm
Buzz, you're welcome!
Keep us posted on your project.
If there's a way to route wires to the other side, you don't need any bridge contacts, it's probably more reliable that way. It's still good to have a power cutoff so that trains can't crash off the edge if the bridge is up, that will normally take a relay of some sort and a switch.
The Raritan Valley Hi-Railers have just such a bridge that was designed by George Chin (member) & myself. We didn't want a bulky bridge, so we have a module sized bridge that's narrow(enough to cover 4 mainlines),about 20+ inches wide by 4 ft. long. Unfortunately, I don't have a pic to show any of you, but can describe it's contents. 1 small limit switch which energizes a piezo buzzer (24v.) along with 4-3 pole ice cube relays, rated around 20 amps, coil voltages are 24 volt,a trunk latch to lock down tight the bridge & make positive contact to spring loaded contacts mounted in bridge frame(our buss under the module maintains contact right through from left to right or vice versa, uninterrupted). The purpose of the relays is to disconnect power to previous modules to eliminate any boo boos if the bridge is opened and someone is not paying attention. Piezo also warns those around not paying attention to take heed.
We will have the bridge out at the Greenberg Toy & Train Show in Edison at the Raritan Center expo if any of you locals want to see the bridge on Nov. 28 & 29 2015. The bridge is in storage currently. By the way, our TIU & TMCC signal all go through the bridge with no problem. The only signal problems we have (wifi antennae) come from the Expo building itself, which forces us to run conventional sometimes. Seems to be"grem- lins"in this building only.
Bridge idea came about from the many "oldies" in the group with those knee problems.
Steam Forever
John
Co-ordinator of "The Raritan Valley Hi-Railers"
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