Broken Prewar 225E Shell

JB weld, i think. others might have another idea.

JB or even Super glue. A very thin coat on both halves then hold it as long as you can together, once bonded will be strong bond. I have done Cow catchers and other pieces like that and was not able to tell the difference. 

I vote for JB Weld. The orginal, not the JB Quick as its about twice as strong. Strip the paint first. Leave it clamped for 24 hrs before working on it.  Don't wipe off the excess epoxy that oozes out. After it hardens then file and sand smooth like body filler. Then repaint using sanding primer to fill in the file marks.

Pete

I also would use JB weld. Clamps and time are in your favor. Get the initial bonding done and then coat the inside with JB weld to strengthen the whole shell. I rebuilt a Dorfan 51 shell that was in 30+ pieces and it worked for me.

Please remember that JB weld when mixed does not become an instant adhesive. Follow the above responses.

+ 1 for J B weld. Back it up with a piece of metal for strength if possible

I could probably fit a piece of galvanized flashing or bar stock in, providing it doesn't disrupt how the engine straddles the frame.

Right, you'll have to figure out what you can get in there as there isnot a lot of free space available. It doesn't have to be much.  A small piece of thin sheet metal would work as long as you can get good coverage with the JB and then clamp it in so it sets up good and tight.

I've rebuilt 4 2025 steamers so far, with another 2 still being rebuilt. I decided to start a 225e, but bonding broken shell pieces together is absolutely new to me!

You'll be fine.  Look at it this way, you can't destroy what was already destroyed!  

Captaincog posted:

I also would use JB weld. Clamps and time are in your favor. Get the initial bonding done and then coat the inside with JB weld to strengthen the whole shell. I rebuilt a Dorfan 51 shell that was in 30+ pieces and it worked for me.

That had to be an exercise in patience! 

It fits together perfectly on the frame.

I ask, can you notice the crack?

Engine97 posted:

It fits together perfectly on the frame.

 

I ask, can you notice the crack?

I cannot readily see anything from this picture. Time to finish putting it back together and run it.

Parts are forthcoming. I've built a third of my postwar fleet PIECE BY PIECE. I have 3 projects currently, with this being a top priority.

I get most of my satisfaction out of my trains from building and refurbishing them.

I took two broken 1666 shells and made this with JB Weld.. Never been a bodyman, but if I had done better on the sanding, it would be better,

I have a spare 225E shell with a busted out window I need to finger out.

That engine looks amazing!

Too late now, but next time instead of a chunk of metal, imbed a little Fibreglas cloth in the JB Weld on the inside.  Much stronger bond than metal.  I cracked a toilet tank, fixed it that way a decade ago.  Still ok.

I recommend NOT using epoxy. Epoxy is very viscous and will tend to hold the pieces apart, preventing a tight fit. Epoxy is great for adhesion to smoother surfaces and where a tight fit is not needed. You want a low viscosity adhesive like superglue that can flow out of the way as needed. It will allow a tight fit and wipe off the excess on the outside before it dries. Also, these castings tend to be a bit porous where they are broken so a low viscosity adhesive will soak in much better and give a stronger bond.   If the fit is as tight as it looks and you get a tight fit with the adhesive, I do not think you will need any reinforcement.

I have not worked with JBWeld. I understand it is very strong, but I also understand it is very viscous so I would not recommend it unless you thin it considerably. That would considerably extend its time to cure.

I mix my JB a tad on the runny side just so it will flow, then leave it alone for several days to fully cure. I started my 4-8-4 at least 10 years ago without any reinforcement other than another layer of JB on the inside.

Engine97 posted:

It fits together perfectly on the frame.

 

I ask, can you notice the crack?

You work look great i see no crack . So did you use the JB Weld ?

I ask as i had a 1994 jeep cherokee at the time wit 120,000 miles with a 4 inch crack in my oil pan that leaked oil the way it sat under everything to replace pan motor had to be lifted or pulled.

Drained it wiped it over and over again applied jb weld put another 180,000 miles on it and then junked it because of holes in floor several next to the 2 front seats that rocked bad because of weakened floor.

Till the day i junked it it never leaked from the jb weld fix.

Miss that jeep as that inline 6 cylinder still ran excellent with 300,000 miles on it but did not want to drive it Fred Flintstone style.

Steamer posted:

I mix my JB a tad on the runny side just so it will flow, then leave it alone for several days to fully cure. I started my 4-8-4 at least 10 years ago without any reinforcement other than another layer of JB on the inside.

I've had one of my cars apart for about 15 years.   Not only that but I've been dumb enough to take a few more apart since.  Don't be like me!!!!!!!!!!!! Nothing is more upsetting than having your favorite car apart that long 😡

that's why I'm not sweating it being over 5 years since the road runner was supposed to be painted....it's together, and I can fire it up and go for a ride anytime (except when it's 5 degrees and four inches of snow outside like now. I've seen too many guys take a car apart, and suddenly it's 20 years later and the car is buried (ore the owner) and the car never sees the road. Or worse...I know several guys that have the cars done and they never come out of the garage.

EBTRR, You have apparently never used JBWeld, or you would know exactly how well it works with repairs, such as the above.  I have repaired/restored over a dozen screwed up diecast bodies using both the JBQuik(fast setting), or regular JBWeld.