brush plate problem.

Are you talking about the springs pushing out the brushes while you try to replace?

 

Take a business card cut it into a U shape so it holds brushes in place but allows placement over the armature shaft. Slide over shaft and when 3/4 way down pull out the card.

Before you do, clean the dirt out of slots in between the armature pieces.

I don't understand what you mean. Could you post pictures?

i will take a pic in the morning.  but i mean that the holes for the screws and the armature do not match up.  if i put in the armature it does not line up with the holes for the screws to hole it in place.  and if i  have the holes for the screws it does not line up to the armature of the motor.  

Have you tried rotating it 180 degrees? Sounds like the holes are slightly off the centerline and are made to fit one way and you are trying to install it the other way. Just a guess; I don't have one of those motors to look at. 

Yeh - if it came off it's gotta go back on!

flip it around so the side you have facing the armature is now facing outward.  Should line up then.

traindork,

 

On the 265 the brush plate goes on with the lower brush toward the front of the loco. The brush "tubes" to the inside of the brush plate.

thanks rob i now can hook it up but now the gears are binding so yet another problem.  o well i love to tinker.  

On that motor the brush tubes are inward towards the armature.

Gandy

Also, on that motor be sure you are using pre war compound reduction gears. They are different than the post war ones and will bind with the gear on the pre war armature.

Gandy

Gandy can you post a pic of the pre war gears.  not sure which ones i have.  

Will try to snap pics when I get home from my grandsons school play thus morning.

Gandy

TrainDork,

When I saw your locomotive the other day, the gears looked correct but I didn't carefully look at each gear tooth.  It was obvious to me the drivers had been removed and put back on wrong at one point in the locomotive's life.  I believe when you pop the wheels back off the axles, clean up the gears, axles and bearings with denatured alcohol and reassemble them, properly quartering the wheels you should be fine.  If the gear teeth are in good shape, the wheels and motor will turn freely.  A lot of rags and denatured alcohol will get it running again.  As for the brush plate, the other guys above are right.

 

If you get stuck, just bring it in!

 

I'm attending Trainfest in Milwaukee WI tomorrow, but I'll be back in the store next week, regular hours.

Ok here are the three compound reduction gears I'm talking about. The difference is obvious in the photos. The late pre war in the middle is the one you need. I had to replace only one of these gears on my 265E motor and it binded sometimes. When I swapped both out it completely seized up. In the end I replaced both gears with the correct late pre war gears and it worked perfectly. The quartering of the wheels make absolutely NO difference what so ever.

 

Gandy

 

Gandy, Just an observation, the two outside gears appear to be just a tad smaller in diameter that the middle one. If this is the case this would allow the teeth to ride over the top of each other at the mesh if the gears are worn or the pivot is worn.

 

Al

Actually all three gears are exactly the same diameter.

Gandy

Gandy,

 

I've run into this before, and it took me a while to straighten out. Unfortunately, I can't remember which motor/engine I ran into issues with.

 

Can you give a rule of thumb or some simple direction as to which motor types take late and which motors take early compound gears, even a tooth count? That would be most helpful.

 

I do agree that the motor will run correctly, if the gears are correct, no matter if the wheels are quartered or not, however, if the quartering is not correct, wheels will bind when rods are attached.

Correct, quartering only applies to when the rods are attached, then that is a whole other problem. But the bare motor should run smoothly without the rods or shell on.

I don't know the tooth count on the different gears. The early pre war compound reduction gears were used on the loco's, electric and steam, where you had the early heavy die cast wheels that you always find crumbling and in need of replacement. These need the wheel gear attached as a separate piece. The later steam loco's in the pre war period have the gears as part of the wheel casting. These would be 4 wheel driver loco's such as the 264, 265, 249 Etc. The only ones I'm not sure about are the 224, 225, 226 6 wheel driver loco's.

Typically the very early gears are made from a fibre material and often wear or break, reproductions are metal as shown in my photo.

All I know is that the parts vendors only sell the early type or the post war type, I have tried several times to buy them and they are all cut like the early ones and wil not work. Both times I've needed one I've had to search used parts bins at shows, or buy a junk motor with them still on it.