Due to the length of this post I have broken it down into three smaller sections.
Section 1 -
I had an opportunity to build an older Pecos River Models kit called the Summer Street Freight Transfer Terminal. The Pecos River brand was subsequently bought out by Korber Models and is now part of their line up.
The first picture shows what the building is to look like. It will be a 2 x 5 bay with a dock on one side for train cars and loading doors on the other side for trucks.
This kit was purchased by my customer second hand so it was missing pieces. Rich from Korber Models was kind enough to supply me with all missing parts. As with any kit there are various ways in which a builder will deviate from the build instructions. Shown below is the procedure I used for this kit (bearing in mind this is my first time with this manufacturer).
All wall sections (single story) consist of a wall panel (door / window / blank etc) with a roof panel on top and a foundation panel on the bottom. Shown below is a completed wall panel next to the individual pieces. I used Plastruct Plastic Weld for all joints in this project.
Note that brick inserts are also available if one wants to install them. In order to glue the sub sections together they must first be prepared by squaring up the edges. Some sections have molding sprues that must be removed. Other sections needed their edges squared.
My usual technique is to sand the edge that has no mold sprues and then use a table saw to true up the opposite side (see two pictures below). Sprue cutters and sand paper can be used in place of the table saw. Using the table saw enables me to maintain consistent heights from panel to panel.
I was not sure where the roof panel will ultimately fit with respect to the roof sections so I filled in the injection pin holes with Squadron white putty then sanded the panels.
The walls were glued together then pilasters used to hide the seams. There is a short pilaster for the foundation panel and a longer one for the middle and roof sub sections. The straight pilasters needed only minor filing. Below is a picture of two wall panels and the straight pilaster columns.
The corner pilasters had to be glued together. I kept them square by using 123 blocks and a heavy right angle block.
The completed corner pilasters are shown below.
I ran into one problem dry fitting the corner pilasters to two wall panels. As you can see from the pictures below if the pilasters are aligned correctly with the wall panels on the outside they will not align on the inside. There is about ½ inch separation between the walls on the inside. Korber models confirms this correct.
Another issue with the inside of the wall panel assemblies I did not like was the bottom of the foundation section where the mold release pins were protruding from the wall. Rather than cut and sand them I opted for completely covering the indented area with a piece of 40 mil styrene.
With the individual wall assemblies glued together I decided to glue two-wall sub-assemblies then wash in warm water and dish detergent since the two-wall sub-assemblies would easier to handle than longer walls. To glue to wall assemblies together two pilasters are needed – a foundation pilaster and a wall pilaster. Both were sanded where appropriate then foundation pilaster was glued in first followed by the wall pilaster. Where needed I also trimmed the wall tabs so the walls would fit together with a smallest gap possible.
Section 2 follows.
