Hey all, I'm in process to convert the mth building incandescent lights to led.. I thought of led strips in the upstairs floors and bottom floors. I am going to add outside lamps too. Do you need to add circuits to cut voltage from the transformer? I thought of using some kind of dimmers. Thanks
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You will need to use DC, typically 12 volts for the LED strips. This requires either some form of rectification of the AC from a typical transformer used in a three rail layout. Or the use of a separate DC power supply.
VERY nice layout and buildings.
Or you can use individual 12VDC LEDs. Usually, you see these with attached 12" long leads. Model Power (now distributed or owned by Lionel) makes a multi-pack of these.
I run 12VDC accessory bus just for the lighting.
George
A separate DC power supply would be best. I use several old wall warts from long discarded electronics. Old cell phone chargers are a good option too. Make sure you get warm white LED's.
Evans Designs is a good source for LED's and exterior fixtures.
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Chris D - I have had success with buying an LED lighting roll which includes the transformer from the green big box store. These can be cut into sections of three then solder lead wires onto the contacts. I suggest avoiding the ones with a heavy silicon coating if possible, I have to cut off the silicon to get down to the copper pads which is a bit of a pain. Each section has a resistor in the circuit making wiring straight forward, just note the polarity of the leads.
I then gang the LEDs into a common feed for each building to a quick disconnect so its easy to remove the buildings. From there its on to a distribution block, where I can put groups of buildings on a single switch. I have also bought dimmers made for LEDs (not yet wired in) so I can adjust the brightness of the light.
The strip is 12VDC and has somewhere around 100 groups of 3 LED sets. For building lighting where you are not going to see the strip, this is a convenient and cheap way to light a layout. I bought a 500 foot reel of 22/4 stranded alarm cable. The unsheathed wire is "soft" and flexible so it will not put stress on the solder joint unlike solid conductor. I use this wire for my switch controls as well, so I'll use the wire. To me not much cost difference between a 50 foot roll and this bulk pack.
down this very page a little?
Thanks guys. I'll probably run the strips and individuals to common leads and run to some bus bars and I did get wal warts.. a while back.. so I'll split up power around the layout for recepticals.. thanks for ideas!
@Rich883 posted:You will need to use DC, typically 12 volts for the LED strips. This requires either some form of rectification of the AC from a typical transformer used in a three rail layout. Or the use of a separate DC power supply.
@Rich883 posted:You will need to use DC, typically 12 volts for the LED strips. This requires either some form of rectification of the AC from a typical transformer used in a three rail layout. Or the use of a separate DC power supply.
Rich. I will use the wal watts. 12 volt. What about amps.. any minimal ? I figure I'll use bus bars to distribute power from source and maybe hook up 5 or 6 buildings to one supply. But I'm guessing I'll need amperage
12V LED strips are multiples of 3-LED sections. For Amp budgeting, use 20 mA (milliAmps) per 3-LED section. 20 mA = 0.02 Amps. So if you have, say, 10 sections you need a wall-wart rated for at least 200 mA or 0.2 A.
Look at the nameplate on your wall-wart(s). A 12V DC-output wall-wart might be rated for, say, 1000 mA or 1 Amp:
So this wall-wart can handle 10 sections...or up to 50 sections.