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Reason I ask is I just finished laying enough track to actually run a train.  It is that cursed 36" radius curve that is also on a grade of about 3% we were talking about a while back.  Anyway, started with 8 cars and stuck my 'expendable" (just in case!) CF7 from Goldberg Models I picked up cheap a couple of years ago.  It's actually a nice model and runs really well-quiet-and draws about 1.2 Amps at stall on DC.  Went around and up no problem.  Even with a brass caboose and some pretty light boxcars I had none got pulled off the inside. 

 

Moving right along.........my 2-8-2 Minaret Tank would only pull about 3 cars.  More and it would stall, not slip its drivers.  It's DCC so I need to check top voltage and look at the motor I put in for grunt.  My favorite steamer, a Beaver Creek V & T 4-6-0 that I lovingly re-built and repainted, installed DCC and weather was a real problem.  Not only would it not pull any cars up and around it couldn't pull itself up and around.  Would go part way and spin the drivers. Yikes.  Hey it sounded great doing it, though!!  It's pretty heavy for a small steamer so I was thinking about the snot I read about to increase the traction.  It has plenty of grunt as I have to press down on it pretty hard to stall it.

 

Any ideas to help my baby get more traction would be appreciated.  Unfortunately there is no room for additional weight.

 

Thanks,

 

Peter

 

 

 

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Peter EB

 

As MWB suggests, you can try substituting tungsten for lead.  You can get tungsten cylinders in a variety of dimensions from Mi-Tech metals "Crankshaft Store"

 

https://www.mi-techmetals.com/cart/

 

Pure tungsten is 1.7 times heavier than lead.  To make it machinable, it is usually alloyed with nickel and copper, so its a bit lighter (I think around 1.5 times heavier). But that is still enough.

 

BUT before you start adding weight, I recommend you first make sure that most, if not all, the loco's weight is on the driven wheels. I am not familiar with the locos you described, but I'd first pull off the pony trucks and the trailing trucks on the steamers. See if that eliminates the slipping.  If it does, check that the trucks don't have too stiff a spring.  If they do, the springs will push those trucks down, and take weight off the drivers.  

 

Similarly, check the driven wheels on the CF7.  If only the outboard wheels are driven, and the weight is in the center, you have a problem. The weight causes the center of the chassis to flex down, the ends to flex up, and a disproportionate share of the weight to bear on the inboard undriven wheels.   Just guessing on that one!

 

As for Bullfrog Snot, Chris Smith wrote a review in OST. You can get that online, but you will have to search which one. If I recall it works fine, but it chunks off after time, and it has a decidedly unprototypical green hue

 

 

Last edited by John Sethian

John, first the CF7 pulls just fine.  I will check the driven wheel weight on the 4-6-0 and third, the website lists 1x1.5 inch rods for 26 bucks but fails to state the weight!  Min. order is 50  bucks.  I'm guessing I could jam 3 of these in the boiler for 78 bucks but w/o knowing the weight..............am I missing something on their site?

 

Thanks,

 

Peter

A couple thoughts.  With the 2-8-2T, if it is stalling and not slipping, the weight is too much for the motor, and it either needs a new motor or less weight.  The 4-6-0 may be unbalanced, and needs the weight moved back or more added to the rear.  Also, if the drivers are plated and not raw steel, they could definitely use some Snot.

I need to put the 2-8-2T "on the scope" (Decoder Pro) and see what's up with the top voltage setting.  It was one of the first (of many) that I put DCC w sound in and I was a pup back then doing the programming manually.  I had no track on a layout to test any of these (except a 5 foot level test track) so I did not see any problems running back and forth on a flat track.  Now that I am older and wiser (?) I need to check that.  If the voltage is all the way up, I will need a stronger re-motor motor as the weight is not excessive.  I have ordered some snot just in case.  I also plan to test the 4-6-0 by running it w/o the front truck as suggested by someone else.  The weight is as far back as it can got w/o hitting the motor/gearbox link-up.  Thanks, more later........g'night

 

Peter

Sorry - way Off Topic question, but ref the CF7 that's been mentioned - is it a current, in-production model? How widely available is it - or was it, if it's an old model, & what does "relatively cheap" mean in terms of $$$...???
Sorry to ask, but the CF7 is one of two types I would really like in O scale - the other being a better GP38-2 than Weaver's....

That 4-6-0 may be binding up in the curve.   Maybe the lead truck jams against the frame and wedges the loco so it can't move.    I would look into that sort of possibility before trying to add more weight.     

 

And the Mineret may also be binding ont he curve.   If all drivers are flanged and not much play and no articulatated side rods.   Even with articulated side rods, the drivers may be binding int he curve and hence it is not running - - it can't.    If you have a  ramp meter, check the camperage draw when it locks up.

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