bumpers for Lionel FasTrack

Bob,

I took my layout apart. I will try to remember where I put the pieces - I fitted the lighted version of those bumpers onto the ends of 10" pieces - I guess 5" would have worked, but I had extra 10".

Anyway, I drilled holes through the rails and the bumper feet to accommodate pins made from 12 AWG solid wire and pinned the bumpers to the outside rails.

Photo to follow - give me a couple of days

My grandson banged them pretty hard due to lack of train control skill - they are not flimsy - a runaway steamer could possibly break it - but the design is good as it copied the real thing - remember, I pinned them to the rails - not clipped on

I like the look of the Lionel Earthen bumpers myself.  They also look like they could stop a speeding train!

They're less than $5/ea if you shop around, and they will work perfectly in your situation.  By the time you screw around with the ones you have to modify, is it really worth the effort to save $30?

Moonman posted:

Bob,

I took my layout apart. I will try to remember where I put the pieces - I fitted the lighted version of those bumpers onto the ends of 10" pieces - I guess 5" would have worked, but I had extra 10".

Anyway, I drilled holes through the rails and the bumper feet to accommodate pins made from 12 AWG solid wire and pinned the bumpers to the outside rails.

Photo to follow - give me a couple of days

My grandson banged them pretty hard due to lack of train control skill - they are not flimsy - a runaway steamer could possibly break it - but the design is good as it copied the real thing - remember, I pinned them to the rails - not clipped on

Carl - Thanks for the message; I look forward to your photo.

Bob:

I make wood bumpers for non blasted track. These are designed so the the vertical post fit into the spaces between the tie bars. I have the construction plans I could email you so you can make your own. I'm thinking you can eliminate the portion of the vertical posts that extend trough the tracks so they lay flat on the tracks and either glue them in place with super glue or drill holes through the  bottom pieces / track and pin them in place. I use a hardwood species but normal basswood can be used and either stained or painted.
Joe

Joe Fauty posted:

Bob:

I make wood bumpers for non blasted track. These are designed so the the vertical post fit into the spaces between the tie bars. I have the construction plans I could email you so you can make your own. I'm thinking you can eliminate the portion of the vertical posts that extend trough the tracks so they lay flat on the tracks and either glue them in place with super glue or drill holes through the  bottom pieces / track and pin them in place. I use a hardwood species but normal basswood can be used and either stained or painted.
Joe

 

Joe - Thanks for your comment.  I have, in the past, made wooden bumpers for my spurs, using similar techniques.  It's one option, but I was hoping to save the mass-production of making 13 of them.  I like Carl (Moonman)'s idea of pinning premade bumpers to track, which are removable, rather than gluing them in a more permanent manner. We'll see.  Thanks for your great picture.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I like the look of the Lionel Earthen bumpers myself.  They also look like they could stop a speeding train!

They're less than $5/ea if you shop around, and they will work perfectly in your situation.  By the time you screw around with the ones you have to modify, is it really worth the effort to save $30?

I agree. Sometimes we will go around our elbows to get to our thumbs, all to save what, in the big 3RO money scheme of things, is pocket change. And you will probably never need any more.

I don't use FasTrack, so these are not my thing, and if you prefer the look of another bumper, go for it, but I think these would look better in a FasTrack world.

BTW, I have used the 6-12717 bumpers many times (I like the look), and if you mount the thing using a drywall screw (or wood screw) though the hole, it will definitely "stop a train". This is easier when mounted beyond the end of track (also adding 2 - 3 inches of track length), but can also be done on the rail, depending on everything.