Buying Used Track and Misc.

Track doesn't look to bad really, I'd try and clean that  with a green or red scotch brite pad. 

DO NOT Use STEEL WOOL

You could also wipe it down with some mineral spirits or the like. 

Make sure the pins are clean and tight, you can carefully pinch down the non pinned ends by using a needle nose pliers on the middle part of the rail, ie between the base of the rail and the top circle part.  Just push the pliers in so that you make the top circle part slightly smaller in an effort to tighten the fit of the pin into that hole.  Be careful and don't crush the rail. It works well for me, but I am sure others have good methods as well.

Transformers are ok, but smallish.  depends on how big a track you plan on setting up.  Also depends on what size of engine you will run.

Bigger transformers can be had for a decent price, usually you just need to replace the cord an clean them up.  Make sure they don't have a burned electrical smell and they are usually ok.  If your not comfortable messing with wiring and the like, buy a new one or have some one else work on them for you.  Really not much to it though.

First, great find! You have some of the desirable Marx O-34 curves in O-27 profile. To answer your questions:

1) Used track is economical. Avoid/minimize use of abrasive cleaning techniques - you don't want to destroy the thin tin plate layer that prevents rust. Search track cleaning on this forum and you'll find 1000 different ways, most with merit. Additionally, another common pain point is finding hidden shorts in the track. Use a multi meter or other means to confirm the center rail is isolated from the ties and side rails - sometimes the paper insulators between it and the rail fail.

2) If the transformers seem to be in good condition (including the power cord), then I'd say they can be used with proper external circuit protection (search for circuit breakers and TVS diodes on this forum).

3) Here is a diagram on how to wire your switches.

BTW, you have a mix of Marx 027 and 034 track, Nothing wrong with it, good stuff

I'da jumped on that in a heartbeat for $15, O34 Marx isn't always the easiest to find.   (I say that as I'm sitting on @ 150 curve sections hoarded over the past many years...).  I've restricted use of 27" curves and switches to limited siding use only in favor of the Marx 34's (sections and switches) and other larger radius O27 profile track.

As was suggested search for cleaning tubular track posts - one I replied to recently is currently back about pg 8.  Some good articles can also be found with a google search of the web as well.

Personally I'd skip the transformers for running trains and relegate them to accessory duty, such as powering the switches.  Look for one of the better Lionel postwar models with more power or a modern one from MTH, etc.

Good luck, you've got a good start!

Thank you for the replies. Great information! I really appreciate your willingness to share your wealth of knowledge...

Yep, $15 for that haul is a bargain if just for the 34" wide radius curves.  For us O27 profile (shorter) users, the original restriction was 27" (very tight) curves except for the Marx 34" curves.  Today, you can get 42", 54" and even some 72" curves in O27 track, but the 34" curves haven't been manufactured in a long time.

Good morning all. Glad to report that the new 0-34 track cleaned up well. Even the switches and transformers worked... I tested the switches using the wiring diagram provided by BMORAN4 and one of the MAR toy transformers on the auxiliary posts. When I eventually put this in my track layout, do I hook it up to the aux posts on my Z4000 or can I use the MAR transformer....I know the MAR energizes the track, so maybe I've answered my own question and the answer is "no"?? Also, I cleaned the sliding mechanism on the switches with contact cleaner... Should the be lubricated? Thanks! Don

In the past I've used the main (variable) posts on transformers dedicated to accessory/switch detail.  This way I can vary the power output to accessories/switches to get a reliable function/switch actuation without the over- or under-power problems that can sometimes be had with the constant rate accessory posts.  Sometimes the older stuff needs a little more umph! to operate reliably.  You can also cut the juice off separately from the track if needed.  Obviously this only works with switches powered separately from track power.

Don't use any sort of liquid lube, you'll only attract dust and create more crud.  I've not tried or found a need (yet), but I'd maybe consider a very light application of dry graphite with all excess wiped off if I ever find a switch that just refuses to reliably comply after boosting the juice a little more.

Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated!