Caboose track in yard sloped?

Hopefully a Pennsy modeler will chime in here, but I seem to recall that they utilized a "pimple", a stub end track that was on a slope.  The caboose was coupled to a bumper at the end equipped with a coupler receptable.   When a Departing train was leaving the yard, they would pass by the inclined track, the rear end crew would align the switch after the last car passed by, align the switch, pull the cut lever,  coast down slowly into the rear of the train, realign the switch, hook up the air, final brake test, and then out of town they went. 

Now being a GN modeler, I disavow any knowledge of anything Pennsy............LOL

regards,

GNNPNUT

GNNPNUT - well done..

The pimple (cabin car) tracks at Pennsy's Enola yard are seen in many photos taken from the old iron bridge at the north end of the yard.  Your general concept is right but there wasn't a coupling post at the top of the incline.  String of ready to go cabin cars sat on the incline with their brakes set.  The crew would board the cabin release the brake, and uncouple from the next cabin up the incline while standing on the platform using a chain connected to the uncoupling bar. (the same rig was used to uncouple on the fly from rear end helpers).  A pretty slick operation.

Ed Rappe

Was there a time when the conductors had their own assigned individual cabincar?

Interesting topic.  It was also my impression that conductors had their own cabin cars, but I also know that "pool" cabin cars were used (gold painted cupolas?).  I would expect that the practice of individual cabin cars got modified as a result of declining revenues over time (you don't need / can't afford the extra moves).

But practically speaking, if Kevin does put in a sloping cabin car track, he will need a way to keep them from rolling into the turnout.

George

Yes, there was a time when conductors had their own assigned cabincar.  The book The Railroad Caboose by Knapke has several stories about such individuals.  One of the saddest involved a conductor who managed to argue for the preservation of his wood sided caboose when his railroad went to metal.  The railroad let him keep his "crummy" until he retired.  A few days after his retirement he found out his caboose was going to be scrapped.  He went over to where it was waiting for scrapping, went inside, and killed himself.

quote:

But practically speaking, if Kevin does put in a sloping cabin car track, he will need a way to keep them from rolling into the turnout.

Given that models dont actually have brakes, I think the most practical compromise to hold them in place would be to put a coupler on the bumper.

He could also use a small pin or rod that rises vertically through the road bed to just above axle height to hold the cabin.  It could be easily rigged to raise and lower with a solenoid type switch machine.  That should work smoothly and be practically invisible.

I don't believe on major PRR routes the conductors had their own cabin cars - the traffic density was too high and it would entail a significant amount of extra switching in the yard. On secondary routes and locals or "turns" originating in smaller yards it would be easier to arrange.

As far as modeling a pimple track - you could use a twin coil HO switch machine to raise and lower a vertical rod between the rails that in the up position was just above axel height. The rolling coupling would be sweet with soft acting Kadees.

Good idea.

Both the SP and the UP yards here in Portland Oregon had caboose tracks which were flat.  Caboose put into it didn't roll.

We sorta "modeled" our caboose tracks/yard on the SP one in Southeast Portland ... sadly now long gone along with the Brooklyn Roundhouse.  The SP4449, SPS700, and OWRN 197 all now live in the new ORHF Engine House.

Thanks for the great feedback.  I will try to build the track on an incline.  I will experiment with a dz2500 mounted under the table in combination with an uncoupler.  In theory the cabooses could all be coupled and held in place by the arm protruding through the benchwork.  I could lower the arm, immediately uncouple and then raise the arm back up to catch the axle of the second caboose.  Yes, there is a lot going on there, but it could be made to work.  Certainly worth a shot!

thanks very much