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That's a debatable issue, yamawho. 

 

I assume you want to have a lower voltage because you run conventional and can't slow locos enough.  Cause is that the TIU alters the wave form, and the alteration becomes greater the more it has to drop voltage.  Reducing the input voltage to the TIU will help considerably.

That's correct.  To illustrate, I have an MTH Docksider.  If I feed 5 volts (per the remote readout) to it, while inputting 22 volts into VARIABLE IN, it flies.  If I drop the input to, say 14 volts or so, it runs more normally.  Try it with your 1033.  Play with the input voltage and see how different settings react.

 

Of course, when inputting less that 22 volts, the voltage reading on the remote is not accurate, but that doesn't matter.

What problems did you encounter and how do you have the transformer, TIU, & track wired?  You should use a wall wart connected to the AUX power input, so that the TIU has an adequate power supply regardless of the voltage you apply.  But applying 12 volts or over to FIXED 1, even without a wall wart, should work.

Be sure you have the two transformers properly phased.  If both (1) they are phased and (2) the powermax is properly connected, 1033 "U" should go to black and A to red.  When you say it starts at 5-volt, are you getting that reading from the remote?  If so, it is not accurate when less than 22 volts is applied.  Also, even though you may get a similar reading on a voltmeter, the wave form differs.

 

Here's a suggestion.  Disconnect both wires from the OUTPUT of FIXED 1, but leave power applied to the INPUT.  Try the loco on VAR 1

Originally Posted by RailRide:
Originally Posted by yamawho:

I tried wiring the 1033 U to red and A to black on Var 2.

I still left Fixed 1 wired to a powermax 180 watt to power the dcs track along with powering the TIU.

 

Isn't the 'U' post a "common" post (as opposed to "hot"), meaning it should be hooked to the black terminal on the TIU?

 

---PCJ

MTH advises to wire the U on the 1033 to the red post.

Last edited by yamawho

There can be a fine line between fear and wisdom/prudence.  In fact, sometimes it is prudent to be fearful.

 

Personally, I would not upgrade to 4.30 at this time to solve the problem yamawho is facing, but would attack it in the manner I mentioned above---reducing input voltage for conventional operation---which I do on those rare occasions when I want to run conventional.  Others may and, I'm sure, do differ.

Plenty of people, including me, have upgraded to 4.30 and are enjoying the new features offered.  I've experienced no problems with the upgrade. The only things that have been mentioned are some minor issues with MU configurations, but I believe there were some issues with MU operation with 4.20, so I view that as a wash.

 

Since that would allow the desired operation without changing anything about the hardware configuration, we'll just have to agree to disagree on this point.

 

Sometimes it's not prudent to be fearful.

 

You need: a 1/8" stereo cable to connect two terminals on the TIU for upgrading the TIU; a telephone handset (not wall to phone) cord to connect remote and TIU; a serial cable to connect computer to TIU.  If your computer does not have a serial port, you would need a USB to serial adapter cable (available at Radio Shack, but if your TIU is Rev L, you can use a USB cable.  These are all readily available.

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