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I have a LionChief Plus loco and also a new Williams RS3 loco, and while I understand the LC+ can run on either AC or DC power, is the same also true for the Williams unit, or will DC power confuse the "True Blast" sound circuitry? I'm having a hard time justifying the high cost of a conventional AC power pack if I can use one of my high power MRC ControlMaster DC units (with handheld memory throttle), at least for now...

 

Bill in FtL

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The locomotive itself will operate on DC, it doesn't care. The 'True Blast' sound board does, since the DC from the transforer is what triggers either the horn or bell when you press the appropriate button.

 

On the 6 amp reverse board there are two 2-pin connectors. One is a DC output that was intended for connecting a tether to a second locomotive.

 

The second 2-pin connector passes AC straight through from the track pick-ups. This is the one the 'True Blast' sound unit connects to. When it detects the +/- horn/bell DC voltage on top of the track AC, it triggers.

 

If you want to operate the loco on DC, you have to unplug the sound board from the reverse unit.

 

Thanks Len2,

 

That confirms what I thought would be the case from my limited knowledge of AC trains picked up when I was in "S" scale (DC), but I wasn't certain. Am I correct in thinking that the difference between the bell and horn button is that one applies DC+ to the center rail and the other applies DC-? 

 

I guess I'll have to budget for a decent AC power pack. In the meantime, I'll just have to run on the club's modules using their power (least my wife won't have to put up with me setting up track on the living room floor, for a while, anyway!).

 

Bill in FtL

Yes, DC+ triggers the horn, DC- the bell.

 

Almost forgot! It wasn't a planned use, but I've found using the 2-pin DC tether connection for installing a directional lighting circuit very handy. It's output swiches polarity with the motor outputs when direction is changed, meaning all that's needed is a couple of current limiting resistors and LED's to install basic directional LED headlights. A little more circuitry, and you get constant brightness too.

 

Last edited by Len2

No, you still have directional control. The newer reverse board on Williams locos are basically just a "brain" IC, a pair of full wave rectifiers feeding a couple of DPDT relays that in turn feed the motors. When power is cut, then restored, the "brain" tells the relays to flip, reversing the power to the motors. All that happens when you use DC, instead of AC, for power is you lose a bit of voltage through the rectifiers.

 

Originally Posted by Len2:

The locomotive itself will operate on DC, it doesn't care. The 'True Blast' sound board does, since the DC from the transforer is what triggers either the horn or bell when you press the appropriate button.

 

On the 6 amp reverse board there are two 2-pin connectors. One is a DC output that was intended for connecting a tether to a second locomotive.

 

The second 2-pin connector passes AC straight through from the track pick-ups. This is the one the 'True Blast' sound unit connects to. When it detects the +/- horn/bell DC voltage on top of the track AC, it triggers.

 

If you want to operate the loco on DC, you have to unplug the sound board from the reverse unit.

 

I will second what Len2 mentions about the Williams True Blast 2 units.

The True Blast 2 unit will continually sound off in DC voltage.

 

The motors are DC but the True Blast 2 needs AC with a DC pulse or something like that to function.

 

Lee Fritz

I wasn't aware of the LionChief AC/DC acceptance.

 

WBB's instructions (above) hint otherwise.

 

All the instructions that I have seen on my 3RO locos - many locos, many brands - have

been clear about "running your new XYZ loco on DC will damage the electronics". But

I no longer read the "basics" in instructions, and most of my purchases are

used locos. 

 

The above advice about "the motors are DC..." is dangerous - it's the boards that may be

harmed by the DC, not the motors. Electronics expecting AC will be toast if you give them 

DC.

 

Having DC motors ensures nothing per the boards.

 

Having said all that, some electronics are now indeed capable of properly processing

either AC or DC; is your loco so equipped?

 

Bachmann knows; we don't.  

Last edited by D500

Williams E units use relays, not triacs or FETs. The first component connected to track voltage is the bridge rectifier. AC passes through both halves of the bridge alternately. DC just passes through one leg of the bridge.  After the bridge its all DC Which passes through one of the relays to the motor. The motor sees only a straight DC voltage proportional to the AC track voltage. The flip flop still switches the relays when track voltage approaches zero and the DC to the motor is reversed.

Triac E units apply Pulse Width Modulated DC to the motors. AC is required to trigger the triacs. You can't run a Lionel engine with their electronic E units on DC but you can use DC with Williams and Bachmann.

 

Pete

Last edited by Norton
Originally Posted by D500:

All the instructions that I have seen on my 3RO locos - many locos, many brands - have been clear about "running your new XYZ loco on DC will damage the electronics". But I no longer read the "basics" in instructions, and most of my purchases are used locos. 

  

You must not own any MTH PS2 or PS3 stuff.  All the 3V PS/2 and all PS/3 boards run on either AC or DC.

Originally Posted by Norton:
...You can't run a Lionel engine with their electronic E units on DC...

Actually, you can. As with WBB, the entire device works on DC(reversing and motors) and is powered by a rectifier matrix arranged to form a full wave bridge as the first set of components on the board wired to the AC input. I have run a couple of RS-3s and K-Line MP-15s very satisfactorily on DC with MRC power packs.

Originally Posted by Norton:

Williams E units use relays, not triacs or FETs. The first component connected to track voltage is the bridge rectifier. AC passes through both halves of the bridge alternately. DC just passes through one leg of the bridge.  After the bridge its all DC Which passes through one of the relays to the motor. The motor sees only a straight DC voltage proportional to the AC track voltage. The flip flop still switches the relays when track voltage approaches zero and the DC to the motor is reversed.

Triac E units apply Pulse Width Modulated DC to the motors. AC is required to trigger the triacs. You can't run a Lionel engine with their electronic E units on DC but you can use DC with Williams and Bachmann.

 

Pete

This isn't true either.  Triacs are diodes that can pass current either direction hence work with AC, but they also work with DC.  In fact I believe the DCDR uses the same Triac as the ACDR.    G

GGG posted:
Originally Posted by Norton:

Williams E units use relays, not triacs or FETs. The first component connected to track voltage is the bridge rectifier. AC passes through both halves of the bridge alternately. DC just passes through one leg of the bridge.  After the bridge its all DC Which passes through one of the relays to the motor. The motor sees only a straight DC voltage proportional to the AC track voltage. The flip flop still switches the relays when track voltage approaches zero and the DC to the motor is reversed.

Triac E units apply Pulse Width Modulated DC to the motors. AC is required to trigger the triacs. You can't run a Lionel engine with their electronic E units on DC but you can use DC with Williams and Bachmann.

 

Pete

This isn't true either.  Triacs are diodes that can pass current either direction hence work with AC, but they also work with DC.  In fact I believe the DCDR uses the same Triac as the ACDR.    G

George, once a triac is triggered, it conducts until the voltage across it has a zero crossing,  so it will work once, but it's on forever until there is a zero crossing.

Speaking WIlliams, I recently purchased 2 true blast plus boards and installed them in a pair of sd45’s that I lash together. it has created a problem reversing the units. they are very tedious to get the reversing boards to work simintaniously.I have to bring the power down real slow in the cycling sequence. I have new unused reversing boards that I tried but without any success. If I disconnect either one of the sound boards they work fine. makes me think that there is residual voltage from the sound boards that back feed into the reversing boards. Has any one experienced this problem ?

 

RON, I thought for sure GRJ or GGG would comment on your issue but this post seems to have died off. I'm no electronics expert, but if you believe you have power feeding back to the reverse board, the power may be coming from any capacitors discharging on the sound board. It may help to install a diode in the line providing power to the sound board which will stop any back feed. The diode will however drop the voltage to the sound board by about a 1/2 volt. I don't think that's enough to stop the board from working though. Hopefully one of our experts will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

Dave Zucal posted:

RON, I thought for sure GRJ or GGG would comment on your issue but this post seems to have died off. I'm no electronics expert, but if you believe you have power feeding back to the reverse board, the power may be coming from any capacitors discharging on the sound board. It may help to install a diode in the line providing power to the sound board which will stop any back feed. The diode will however drop the voltage to the sound board by about a 1/2 volt. I don't think that's enough to stop the board from working though. Hopefully one of our experts will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

OK so the tru blast plus has a large non polar cap on its input.  This is used to capture the dc offset for the whistle or bell.  The cap is holding up your reverse unit.

This is what happens when you contract your electronics to a dcc guy instead of a three rail guy.

Lou N

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