Car Works CB&Q VO-1000

im only powering one truck, tank drive killed the model’s appearance. Tsunami 2 on board, speaker needs enclosure.

Some added fuel tank details, the inside is filled with weights to improve traction. 

Yes sir, that is nice! Great job. 

This has to be one of my favourite switchers, so you have my attention!           cTr...( Choose the Right )

I have had All Nation single truck powered drives.    I was not happy with them.   No matter how much weight was added, they still did not pull anywhere near was a the 8 wheel powered ones would pull.      I hope yours works for you.    It should pull 8-10 cars on level track pretty easily.

It is a compromise...  I just couldn’t live w the tank drive... It pulls 2-3 HW brass cars with some effort... could pull 5-7 Atlas CZ cars easily. It’s a switcher, so I it’ll only pull a couple cars here and there but I agree with you...

For me this is a no, no..

Being an a 3RS (+/-) and not a 2RS, I'm grossly under-qualified to appraise the situation but that won't stop me from asking a stupid question:  What prevents you from powering the rear truck in the same manner, after replacing the single shaft motor with a double, and stuffing the electronics & speaker under the motor and inside the fuel tank?  More weights could be added on the rear to mirror those on the front, under the drive shaft, and you have sound/control, weight and 8 wheel drive.  I know that you're an artist and a collector, not a throttle puller, but still I cannot imagine you settling for second best.

The way these drives are set up, there simply isn’t room for a second drive tower because of the proximity of the cab

DRAT!

Not willing to quit, this easily, let me ask if the entire drive mechanism (motor & chain drives) could be lowered sufficiently to provide adequate clearance?  I'm sure this has occurred to you but, purportedly, the only really stupid question is the one not asked.

RTH! It's a matter of length not of height. I appreciate the insistence tho. Too much back slapping on this forum these days 

I thought about NWSL stanton drives but was adviced not go that route by a few fellow modelers.... 

Nuts.

Yeah, there's too much undeserved back slapping.  On the other hand, your "slaps" are well deserved.  So, there.

Santiago

Ditch those cute little lead weights and add a couple tungsten copper alloy cylinders in place.  Pull will increase dramatically.  Tungsten -copper is 1.5 times denser (heavier) than lead.  You can get virtually any size you need from Mi-Tech Metals:

https://www.mttm.com/tungsten-...y-crankshaft-weights

Crankshaft store:

https://store.mttm.com/cranksh...396324234.1568645918

Oh, and nice job by the way. 

Thanks, John. I'll look into it.

Nifty locomotive!   Housekeeping detail:   Burlington's Baldwins were concentrated (per locomotive assignment sheet from 03-01-55) on the Chicago Division (13 units), particularly switching Clyde Yard, and North Kansas City, MO (17 units).  Most - if not all - of Burlington's steam power came from Baldwin, so not surprising the Q threw some early diesel business to Baldwin.

Do you guys know where the bell was located on VO-1000 and particularly in Burlington ones?

I got an OMI can interior from Bill Davis coming my way! 

Added the rain gutters today...

As stated on the OP, this engine won’t be a blackbird it will be an as delivered all black version.

SANTIAGOP23, I have a solution possibly.

add a second unit there will be twice the power.

I have the exact  undecorated model ( has 4 exhaust stacks) which requires one gear replacement. There is binding in the replaceable gear of mention.

the body needs a good cleaning. the VO-1000 is just too long a loco for my intended.

if interested, my email is in the directory.

good luck with your endeavors. you are an awesome modeler.

Leroof 

Atlas horizontal drive. ?????

Weaver also did a Horizontal chain drive, before the double vertical can drive became popular. 

Great effort, thanks for sharing!  I don't like tank drives either.  That tip from John about the tungsten is a keeper!

The Drive in the Carworks locos of that vintage are basically Weaver or a very good copy.   At the time, I was told they were using Weaver parts.     The FMs and Also S switchers also had the drive.

I can live with the shaft through the tank.    My yard is at about 38 inches, so most operators are looking down at a slight angle and can't see that anyway.      It is a compromise as you say.

I’m ok w a one drive truck as I said, I don’t intend to pull more than two cars w it.

More progress...

I re did the rear headlight... it sticked too far and didn’t have room for a reflector. I drilled it to a desired width as well as the car body to allow for a proper reflector to fit then soldered the headlight case. 

I anticipated the headlights lenses width and drilled so they would take my pre cut lenses... with encased reflectors they should look the part 

A proper solder joint as you can see the solder run to the outside...nice and shiny...

Rain gutter...

Thanks, Leroof. I have no intention of getting another one. 

ught those artistta figures are 1/45... anyone knows who makes better figures? I know about andian models, but they are very limited and the extra $25 bucks for overseas shipping kills me.

Digitalizing some files for negatives and decals...

The figures are OK, just give them some facial features and they'll look fine.

Negative for the number boards and console!

Heavily modified console for lighted gauges... the depth of the brass casting bothers me a bit... but I’m lazy so...

Re: oversized people.  On our call board we had some oversized conductors and a few engineers, too.  However, they were not slender like your model engineer.  LOL

One possible enhancement of the panel it to just chamfer the edges of the gauge holes so the view is not so restricted of the lighted gauges.

Upgraded to PD Hobby wipers, factory were too thick...

Added the fuel cut out valve

After going through some Burlington photographic evidence, I moved the brake wheel and seat to these positions...

This soldered piece allows me to handle the piece for installation... it will go in even after window glazing so I need that control...

Today’s work... there’s a piece on top of the headlight on some VO-1000s... I can’t figure out what it is... but I tried to model it nonetheless... it’s a tiny part... drilling and soldering on the headlight slope wasn’t easy at all