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I'm thinking that with digital control now providing the ability to run many trains independently on the same track, it's hard to justify the work required to build working catenary any more. I have noticed that new "electric" models today usually are digital-ready but rarely have pantographs that can collect current from overhead wire.

You are generally correct, that is why you have to scratch-build pan shoes and such.

It is a labor of love to build a catenary system, but if that is your niche and itch (as it is mine) it is fun to build and even more fun to run.  All my E44s and AEM7s have scratch-built pan shoes, and run at speed with no problem.  In over 5 years, the system has only ever had one snag.  They are all PS2 and PS3 as well.

As an aside, Marty and I once compared notes on catenary systems, and he agreed that if you have arcing, something isn't right.  Too bad, because it is prototypical and fun to watch in the dark.

Me again Bill:

Just some photos from my 1952 Buco catalogue showing the extent of their catenary system, and all of the parts you could get to install an over-head electrical supply to run 2 trains on the one track, at the same time.

I have a couple of the larger (304 & 314) loco's with the spring-loaded pantographs, and they have a "switch" which is mounted under the loco roof that will either collect AC power from the over-head lines, or from the third rail, depending on which way you position the switch.

The catenary poles and support arms were made from profiled brass, and the uprights were attached to the timber sleepers/ties with a stainless steel "spring" clip, similar to the ones used to hold the track joints together. Ingenious for its time.

I have never seen a Buco catenary system in operation (only pictures of it in the catalogue), but my Swiss Buco friends tell me it can be a real "pain in the a.." especially when a loco derails, and you have to work under the wires to get it back on the track, all the while the other train (running off the energized third rail) is bearing down on you. Too much stress for my liking!!!!

Anyway, good luck Bill with your endeavors.....I wait with bated breath!!!

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                                                        1952 Buco Catalogue

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  Different track configurations (and all the parts required) where the catenary could be used

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Joiners for the overhead wires, and the switch box used to isolate/power-up the overhead wire/ isolate the 3rd rail power

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Photo on the back page of the catalogue showing the Buco catenary system in operation

Peter.....Buco Australia

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@Don Winslow posted:

I'm surprised nobody has ever attempted to backward engineer Marklin's semi- scale HO catenary system into 0 scale. I have a shared passion for both Lionel and Marklin, and the Marklin catenary system is reliable, easy to use, and reasonably realistic.

A cool feature is the ability to run two analog trains in the same block - one off the catenary and one from the track.

L1020920

Vollmer also made a system, as did LGB, also Merklin gauge 1

Last edited by Dave Koehler

I'm thinking that with digital control now providing the ability to run many trains independently on the same track, it's hard to justify the work required to build working catenary any more. I have noticed that new "electric" models today usually are digital-ready but rarely have pantographs that can collect current from overhead wire.

Because you can! Its really no deference , than powering you train off you 3 rail track.  from the time  the first electric profile  locomotives and trolleys were made in tinplate , to the new Acela , modelers have been stringing overhead wire to run their electrics.

When Marty passed away, I experienced a sort-of revelation that I should endeavor to install a catenary system. It was a good feeling, and the idea of carrying on a great hobbyist's tradition felt right, not to mention it'd look neat, at least in the city part of my layout as my Bipolars make their run. I subsequently contacted Alan to inquire about his city layout and catenary. Alan sent me the fantastic video, below, which shows trackside views of the Railking system. I then called just about every hobby shop listed in OGR and CTT and managed to find some catenary sets at or below list price. I've since messed around by painting and cutting some of the poles, black and rust, and will likely go with black as the project comes up on my project management scheduling. It won't be straightforward because I have very limited ROW space and will have to customize the poles and arms to reach a double-track mainline. The Railking system was always expensive, and I've seen the system go for big bucks, but if you shop around, you can still find it without breaking the bank. I just saw it recently at York for below list and would've purchased it but I have enough already and was way past my allowable budget.

Last edited by Paul Kallus
@Paul Kallus posted:

When Marty passed away, I experienced a sort-of revelation that I should endeavor to install a catenary system. It was a good feeling, and the idea of carrying on a great hobbyist's tradition felt right, not to mention it'd look neat, at least in the city part of my layout as my Bipolars make their run. I subsequently contacted Alan to inquire about his city layout and catenary. Alan sent me the fantastic video, below, which shows trackside views of the Railking system. I then called just about every hobby shop listed in OGR and CTT and managed to find some catenary sets at or below list price. I've since messed around by painting and cutting some of the poles, black and rust, and will likely go with black as the project comes up on my project management scheduling. It won't be straightforward because I have very limited ROW space and will have to customize the poles and arms to reach a double-track mainline. The Railking system was always expensive, and I've seen the system go for big bucks, but if you shop around, you can still find it without breaking the bank. I just saw it recently at York for below list and would've purchased it but I have enough already and was way past my allowable budget.



Before I took my home layout down I was messing with the MTH catenary   I wanted it to span multiple tracks like you mentioned  The cross arms are removed very easy  I had two different replacements in use  One was just plain old Plastruct I Beam that was the same size   It was good for two tracks but if you wanted to go longer that would sag   I used two brass bars cut to length  The bars are shaped like a U so when together they look like an I beam   Both crosspieces fit right into the MTH receiver and the arm attached right on

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