Is there a way to change the default direction on the GP 7&9 for those of us who prefer to run them short nose Forward?
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Well, the only way I know is to swap the motor leads, the light connections, and the coupler connections.
What GRJ said. I had to do this with an upgraded GG1 I swapped shells with. You have to reverse or swap the motor wires, applicable lights and protocoupler.
It's a pain. Much easier to just hit the DIR button.
Ron
Some sound files have SHF and LHF verbiage in their titles. You may have to look at all the similar high hood sound files to see if one exists that may be compatible.
menu , control, dir control, R/R
menu , control, dir control, R/R
Thanks. Too bad they don't give a choice of R/F. It would be a simple solution.
Ron045 said:
It's a pain. Much easier to just hit the DIR button.
True but the little guys in the cab still face the wrong way.🙁
@Mark V. Spadaro posted:Ron045 said:
It's a pain. Much easier to just hit the DIR button.
True but the little guys in the cab still face the wrong way.🙁
I'd rather turn a little guy around and reglue him vs a bunch of wires.
@Gerald Jackson posted:menu , control, dir control, R/R
Too bad that's not an option I find there. 
Buy an identical dummy and run it short nose forward in front of your engine.
Get an ohmmeter and measure the resistance between the front and rear pickups. It should be close to zero. Likewise, do the same for the wheel sets without traction tires. It’s likely the wheel set to truck resistance, especially if the truck block has a plastic base. The fit between the bronze bearing and truck block can be sloppy causing poor ground pickup. We used some 0.005” brass shim material formed into a “U” shape to cradle the bearing into to truck block to make a tighter fit. Also, if the ground screws have the black oxide coating on them, run a jewelers file under the head to remove the coating or use a nickel plated 3mm screw. Premier 2/3 rail locos don’t have the best ground pickup. It helps if both outside rails are grounded.
@Jon G posted:Get an ohmmeter and measure the resistance between the front and rear pickups. It should be close to zero. Likewise, do the same for the wheel sets without traction tires. It’s likely the wheel set to truck resistance, especially if the truck block has a plastic base. The fit between the bronze bearing and truck block can be sloppy causing poor ground pickup. We used some 0.005” brass shim material formed into a “U” shape to cradle the bearing into to truck block to make a tighter fit. Also, if the ground screws have the black oxide coating on them, run a jewelers file under the head to remove the coating or use a nickel plated 3mm screw. Premier 2/3 rail locos don’t have the best ground pickup. It helps if both outside rails are grounded.
Are you responding to the correct thread?
Finding a file that is set up for short hood forward and flashing the engine is by far the easiest. If it has marker lights youd still need to swap the ends, turn off/unplug/disable them or deal with the red/green on the wrong ends.
You could also go the rewire route and exchange the couplers, lights and motor leads.
I assume your engine is configured to run long hood forward. There are MTH PS-2 GP7's and 9's that are wired to run short hood forward, such as my 20-2337 New York Central GP-9 (which, if it followed NYC prototype practice, would run long hood forward instead of short). Rather than go through the hassle of rewiring your engine, I wonder if you might be able to find someone who would trade frames with you.
