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I had an older steam loco converted to DCS/PS3 and the rate of the chuff sounds is way faster than the wheels are turning.  And to make the loco move at the same ground speed as my MTH SD70, I have to crank the speed on the app ( I'm using the app on my phone) almost triple the speed of the SD70.  If I can only fix one of these, I would prefer the sound to closer match the rotation of the drive wheels.  Can I reprint a tack strip with more or fewer stripes?  Any other ideas?  I redownloaded the onboard software to be sure it was the right file but the results were the same.

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You can change the chuff rate in the remote, under SYSTEM, SOUNDS, try to see if you can get the sound closer that way.

I'm guessing the steamer you are talking about is a brass locomotive with the 44:1 gear ratio.  If so, print a custom tape with fewer stripes.

For a "ballpark" way to figure it, just calculate the ratio of scale MPH on the remote vs. scale MPH of the actual engine.  Let's say it's 2.5:5, 10 scale MPH of the engine is 25 scale MPH on the remote.  To get close to the proper scale MPH, you'd need 24/2.5 stripes.  Since that calculates out to 9.6, try a custom tape with 10 stripes to start.  After you get the engine close, then tinker with the chuff rate in the remote to see if you can get that closer.

Thanks so much John.  I knew I could count on you!  I forgot to mention that I have already adjusted the chuff rate slider in the app to the best position possible.  So I'll try printing another tach strip.  I'm hoping I can put it on with clear Scotch tape to test and then glue the final strip once I figure out what works.

I don't suppose you've worked on a Weaver R2, have you? I have removed two screws on the back that hold the frame in, two under the front and a large one in the middle on which front articulated wheels pivot. But when I start to pull the frame out from the back, it feels stuck in the middle. I'm afraid to pull any harder and maybe break something.  I'm not sure I have removed all the (correct) screws.

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