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I know a number of you have CC2's out there and have probably been through this routine.  I need to replace the traction tires on my CC2 and was looking for tips/best methods to change them since it is difficult to get to the hex head on the wheels with the other running gear in front of these wheels.  I have also heard it is a bear to replace the springs under these wheels if you remove the wheelsets.  Please give me your recommendations.

Also, the traction tires on these units seem a bit thick and was wondering if I should replace with thinner ones so there is no interference with the brake shoes.

Thanks for your help.

 

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Its honestly easier to remove the screws from the drivers to the wheels and remove the undercarrage and the wheel set.  The little springs are not hard to line up for me  ..  I done this about 5 times on cc2s.. Theres worse things to do on this engine then the tires .. The cherry switch ! that one is the best ...Or changing the front  end  cause they broke the loop on the arcutaculate front ..

Last edited by jojofry
Steam Loco Greg posted:

Thanks for the feedback.  Before I choose a plan of action, does anyone have some pics or video of the springs and how they go in on the undercarriage?  Looking at some Bullfrog snot videos and doesn't look too bad to do, but not sure if the engine ride may be a bit lumpy if not applied just right.

Thanks for your pics.

Never used it though you might be able to trim it flush with a #11 X-acto blade.

clem k posted:

Do you have to have tires on this locomotive ?

I'm afraid of ruining the rails, especially on curves, as the wheel sets missing tires are front. Placing the tires under the cylinders was a really, really, bad design. Lionel did it on a few other locomotives too.

Greg: Attached are photos I took changing the traction tires on my Lionel 28085 JLC N&W Y6b a few years back. It is not a terrible job if you take your time and work carefully with a plan. The tires on the Y6b are also at the front of each engine next to the cylinders.

On the Y6b, you remove the brake hanger casting to allow removal of the front wheel-set from the frame . The brake hanger casting clamps the bearing blocks into the frame. The bearing blocks sit on the springs that keep pressure on the wheel sets. Just remove the axle/wheel assembly slowly, and they should stay seated in their holes in the frame; if not, use some grease to hold them in during re-assembly.

This was my first change on these tires and I believe it took around 30 minutes to complete. It's also a good time to do a oil and lube job on the engine assemblies. In short, this is not a complex job-just go at it with a purpose and work carefully.

IMG_0965IMG_0966IMG_0967IMG_0968

 

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