Cheapest option: RealTrax, Tubular, FasTrack, or something else?

In terms of being easier to buy, the two roadbed made track systems will be far easier to acquire overall.

Fastrack is a bit more expensive than Realtrax, but I prefer the former because the Realtrax switches don't work as well and the connector pins under the track tend to bend and break overtime.

I agree with Thomas, the 2 roadbed made systems will be easier to acquire.  But, that said, I think you could save money with tubular track.  Menards sells tubular track and I'm sure there is a wealth of used on the market.

Check out: https://ogrforum.com/...50#76044470150622450 

Another discussion on this forum about where to get tubular turnouts.  

Tony

I haven't priced out tubular track in a long time, but for my money, the answer is GarGraves flex. Looks great, fewer joints, any radius you want, what could be better?

Pair that with Ross switches, and you can't go wrong. Your trains will look better and run better when you aren't dealing with the sharp curves and wicked "S" curves. The great thing about Ross switches is, they come in every reasonable shape. They aren't exactly cheap, but new ones are priced in line with other options. Then you could always look for used ones, they go for between 50 and 70% of new.

  There was a early run of Menards that had some shorts along the center rail insulators. But buying new, I doubt the issue exists. 

   I am very happy with my circle of Menards O-36 and LOVED the price. $35 at my door; three days ; Tight enough to roll it down the hall as a wheel  ...and stay intact. (blunt, no-groove pins, kinda like a fatter version of 0-27 Marx pins)

If budget is the key, I doubt you'll find a better deal without timing and effort.

And Magnetraction really thinks it's swell  and that isn't the case on all track.

 GarGraves track is nice stuff for running; smooth, noise is down, less click clack. (long tubular helps for that too) GarGraves Flex is pretty awsome, and the track availability is very constant. Seriously consider it.

 If you wanted to, you could use any turnout you like. For modern roadbed tracks add paint to ties/ weathering/ bushes/ etc. to blend them better, 

There is probably a reason most room size layouts have Gargraves track and Ross track switches.   Haven't figured it out, but there must be one.  John in Lansing, ILL

Not sure where you are seeing high prices for tubular switches.  New Lionel tubular O72 switches can be found all day long for $65 or less, and very clean and functional Lionel O-gauge remote switches are readily available for $40-50 per pair.   Nice used tubular track is easy to find at bargain prices, especially if you're willing to buy in quantity.

I'll let others discuss the pros and cons of the different types of track, but on cost, tubular wins hands-down.

Gargraves here....hard to beat on many levels.....price one of them.

I used menards 072 curves and straight track, the tubular Lionel switches are horrible so I went with mth switches due to their smoothness. Just buy the tubular-mth transition pieces. 24 pieces of 072 curve for 48$! Never gonna beat that. You can get transition pieces to go from tubular to fast track switches also. I went with menards because of price, I have a big layout and in case I want the manga traction to work. Magna traction doesn’t work on gargraves. I have grades so I need everything I can get when running postwar which is rare anymore for me to do!

The cheapest option is tubular track.  Period.

Pete

Dmaxdeere87 posted:

I used menards 072 curves and straight track, the tubular Lionel switches are horrible so I went with mth switches due to their smoothness. Just buy the tubular-mth transition pieces. 24 pieces of 072 curve for 48$! Never gonna beat that. You can get transition pieces to go from tubular to fast track switches also. I went with menards because of price, I have a big layout and in case I want the manga traction to work. Magna traction doesn’t work on gargraves. I have grades so I need everything I can get when running postwar which is rare anymore for me to do!

Modern Lionel tubular switches may be horrible, I don't know.  I have no direct experience with them.

I bought several used O22 type (5132 and 5133) switches off the bay for an average of $30 a pair.  A little TLC as per THIS LINK and they have been operating perfectly on 14v fixed voltage for many hundreds of cycles.  The O22s would have been fine also but I prefer the controllers with the jewel indicator lenses rather than the painted bulbs.

Pete

I tried new Lionel 072 tubular switches and they were poorly made. I went to K Line switches for those needs.

Speaking of O72 tubular switches, since Lionel's are not all that they should be, what other manufacturers switches are compatible with tubular "O" track ?

My railroad has over 300 feet of Real Trax and 14 Real Trax switches (042). The Real Trax has been trouble free except for the switches. Real Trax switches have some poor design features, and I would expect that Fastrack switches are no better.

I have had to delouse every Real Trax switch on my railroad for the issues I documented below. So far, I have been able to fix all but one Real Trax switch, and that one is in the scrap pile to be cannibalized for spare parts.

New tubular track compatible with Lionel is believe is still being made, maybe no new switches.

To eliminate the sparking of locomotive pilot wheels at A, B & C, I painted these locations with a black epoxy paint.

Dan Padova posted:

Speaking of O72 tubular switches, since Lionel's are not all that they should be, what other manufacturers switches are compatible with tubular "O" track ?

RMT has 'em, scroll down.  They're even on sale right now.

Pete

 I just completed the trackage and powered up a new layout.  I used all Gargraves track and switches. I notice on OGR there are many who do not like Gargrave switches. However, I used from 032 up to 072 and I've had no problems. If I'm careful with the speed I can even run a lot of my  Prewar tinplate on them. These are the newer switches with the cast frog.

As to price, I buy them at my local hobby shop and get 20% off list if I use a credit card and 22 1/2% off list if I pay cash or check.

 Also, Mike the owner of Gargrave, is so very helpful and almost always available on the phone to answer questions, make suggestions and help out in anyway possible. 

Jim

Bobby Ogage posted:

.. Real Trax switches have some poor design features, and I would expect that Fastrack switches are no better

For all the bad things that have, can, and will be said about FasTrack, the quality of the switches isn't one of them. They have a pretty decent reputation. Going back to OP question, the FT switches are by no means cheap.

I used GarGraves switches on my TimeSaver module. Probably the best option price wise. By no means the best, but OK. They have made improvements over the years. If you go with new switches, you'll probably be fine. I'd stay away from the used stuff, even if it were free.

Hands down in my book for BEST switches, Ross.

Goes back to the old adage Cheap, Fast, Good. Pick (2).

I don't have any issue with Fastrack, switches, track, specialty track, etc. All works well for me. 

Tubular is still the cheapest of the tracks, if price is a determining cost, you can get it from either NOS lionel, used at shows and on fleabay and the like, Menards is making it, RMT had/has it. With switches, Ross makes tinplate switches that weren't much more than Lionel was charging or was being charged (sure used ones are cheap). If money saving is the goal, tubular will be a lot cheaper than realtrack or fasttrack (talking new or used). Gargraves track is sort of in the middle it is more than tubular but less than the other two types. If you have a big staging yard and want to save as much money as possible, the cheapest combination would be likely Lionel O72 tinplate switches or Ross tinplate switches (or maybe used gargraves or ross) with tinplate track,the lionel ones  you could prob find NOS or used. Reliability wise to me ross would be the best, but if you find Lionel switches that are used or NOS in good shape, might be cheaper. 

If you want cheap storage tracks, long pieces of tubular seem to be the way to go.  I will share my story however, all of my hidden track was done in tubular, all visible track in Gargraves.  Then I wanted to use insulated rails for detection in those hidden spaces.  Guess what? Couldn't do that easily.  Lots of crawling, cursing and replacing later the layout is all Gargraves/Ross.  Sometimes the cheapest alternative isn't the cheapest in the long run.  

Trainz has some good deals on new 0-Line switches (both 31 and 72). They are exactly the same as K-Line and fit perfectly with snap track and can be used with tubular track. The 0-Line switches look great and are more realistic that the old Lionel 022's which I have too many of.

John

Some years ago, the other train magazine did a "building a layout" article. The premise was the same layout configuration using all the available track systems, comparing the MSRP of each track system. Tubular 027 was the least expensive, followed by O gauge tubular.

That said, every track system has its' advantages and disadvantages. I'm surprised when I look at YouTube layout videos, how many people are using FasTrack. Obviously it is popular despite some documented problems with conductivity and fragile switch stands.

I suppose when one is debating a track system to use, you have to consider the type of layout you want to build, the appearance, and the types of engines/rolling stock you are going to be operating. Initial cost savings are only good if you don't have to go back and say, rip up switch tracks.

For myself, I have always used 027 track and will continue to do so. I don't have unlimited space for layouts, so the tight radius is good. But then it does limit what I can operate on the layout. But for me, this is not a big issue. Although there have been posts about the modern MPC-era designed switch tracks, I have NO problem with them. BUT I am also using the manual ones. Despite the somewhat ugly design of the switch box housing (which I change), the throw lever design allows easy automatic operation using nylon fishing line, run though a small hole I drill into the throw handle.

I have also gone to the trouble to take these same switches and chop them down to just the size template of the track itself. The postwar Lionel 1024 makes this task even easier as only the handle/indicator area of the switch need be cut off: Easily done with a Dremel.

One time I was at a train show and I met Steve Ross as I was looking over his products. I told him I was an 027 guy and his reaction surprised and pleased me. He said good for you, and when I questioned why he went on to say that me buying 027 products was helping to keep other train companies going, which keeps them profitable, which then allows the production of more scale proportioned products, of which then he benefits from those sales as those folks tend to want more realistic, prototypical looking track. Great attitude Steve.

I don't know why, but some people have continual problems with a product, that no one else is having. I can say that with the authority of experience. There are those who always malign starter types of products (can motors, nylon gears) yet in almost 30 years, everything is still working and I have never once had a DOA or something that needed service out of the box.

And same goes for my experience with 027 track. But everyone has their preference, which shouldn't be a bad thing. So Rafi, continue to do your homework (as you are here) seeing what others like. Look over layout videos on YouTube. Also consider your layout space, your overall train budget, and the types of trains you wish to run. All those considerations will help point you in the direction that is right for you.

Ross makes tubular switches that work better than any other tubular switch on the market.

Mikey

I have some newest issue Lionel 031 radius switches which work ok...I do mostly for nostalgia reasons.