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I received a brand new Lionel Corporate Tinplate 249E Christmas set for Christmas.  I'm having two problems.  The most vexing is that the control lead bundle in the locomotive keeps coming unplugged from the transfer bar.  I replace it but the cable bundle is so stiff that within about ten minutes it works its way out again.  I don't want to mess anything up if I have to send it back to MTH.  Has anyone experienced this problem and have a easy fix?  Pic below.


Second problem, the locomotive gets "stuck" on portions of the track where there is a slight grade.  In my case Fastrack running across variations in a carpet.  The drive wheels turn but the traction tires don't grab the track.  I almost feel like the pilot wheels are too large and rub against the bottom of the boiler.  I see marks on the underside of the boiler and red paint on the pilot wheels.  I'm at a loss to fix this one.


Should I just send this back to MTH?  Thanks, in advance, for the help.

Ron



 

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Frank,

   From what I understand the 249E does have a very stiff control cable, try working it around gently until it flexes more readly.   Lionel may have a straight replacement cable now also.

Your other problem is due to having a very light sheen of oil on your FasTrack rails, this will cause your 249E wheels to spinn even without rolling stock, even with the traction tire.   The FasTrack becomes like glass with a very light sheen of oil on it.

Take a clean dry sturdy rag and keep wiping your FasTrack down, removing the slight oil sheen.  Then remove the oil from your engine wheels also.  Do not over lub your Tin Plate trains, or you will have a repetative problem with your traction, especially running on FasTrack.

PCRR/Dave

 

We run our Tin Plate trains on FasTrack all the time, get rid of the oil sheen and

do not over lub your train.

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

I have a number of the MTH/LCT 249E locomotives--one of each color produced to date.  I have not had any problems with them operating on my tinplate layout (which has O36 curves and no grades).

 

The tether needs to snap securely into place, which involved more than just pushing it gently into its socket.  Hard to describe, but do make sure it is pushed firmly into place.  The tether is a bit stiff, and you may want to try Dave's recommendation of working it around a bit to loosen it up.

 

My guess is that your track may be laid on a fairly deep pile carpet, and this could cause the traction and pilot wheel problem.  FasTrack works very well on carpet layouts, but if the carpet pile is too deep there may be too much up-and-down flexing in places.  I have had no problem with the pilot wheels contacting/scraping the bottom of the engine body.  It's always best to provide as firm a surface as possible for the track, even if you're using FasTrack.  A sheet of plywood or other material, very thick cardboard, or even sheet foam might be needed if the carpet has a deep pile.

Gentlemen,

   Alan makes a good point about the carpet, which I forgot to mention, with the combination of the oil sheen and the carpet thickness allowing the FasTrack to move, you could have double trouble.

This particular Tin Plate engine and tender have had the stiff cable, work loose  problem right out of the box, some like Allans will stay in when secured peoperly, others keep backing out all the time.  If you keep having problems do as Steve has done and return the engine and tender, for repair.  They may even put a different cable on for you.

PCRR/Dave

 

UPDATE on 249E Christmas Locomotive.

Well, I received the locomotive back from MTH and finally got an oval of Fastrack (036) set up to give it a test (delayed by arrival of new OGRer granddaughter).  One loop!  One loop on the small oval was all the locomotive could manage before the cable was loose and the locomotive dead.  It's very frustrating.  I've heard stories regarding the quality of MTH customer service.  Now, I'm living the same.  Well... I'll pack it up tomorrow and give MTH a call.  At least it's a Christmas set and they will have a long lead time to get it repaired.  I won't try to repair it myself even thought there were several good suggestions in this thread.  I don't want to damage a brand new train any more than it already is.  We'll see...

Ron

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