Chuff sensor install

How are you going to get four chuffs for a driver rev with that arrangement?  Have you seen my Chuff-Generator product?  You can get a programmable number of chuffs using this.

Here's one being calibrated to set the number of chuffs.

Thanks for the response John. I am aware of the 2 vs 4 chuff controversy but I thought your board worked on the timing marks on DC motors. This Hudson has a Pullmor AC motor. Let me know if I am wrong and I'll place an order for a chuff generator!

BTW...This loco will have one of your led firebox flicker boards visible on the right and left sides of the ash pan and your single led CV driver on the head light. Might as well go all the way.

Richard

Well, the lack of a flywheel is a sticking point, that's certainly true.

You're stuck with the magnets and reed switches or what you described it would appear.

Thanks John.....This is a common mod perhaps someone will have some ideas.

Richard

Guys, just to throw it "out there".....  Anyone ever thought about the possibility, means, by which a flywheel/disk could be attached to a pullmor type motor?  Perhaps onto the output shaft before the coupling and/or gearbox.  Then, with a sensor strobe tape on the flywheel, it could be read by a chuff rate generator.  And, maybe assist with a pullmor motored engine have better coasting ability?   Just a thought.........

Jesse    TCA

Someone mentioned doing this some time in the past, I don't recall the topic at the time.  It's somewhat dependent on how the Pullmor motor is installed and if there's any exposed output shaft.

That would possibly work if you are attempting to get the chuff timing to the puff. It would require a tether to the tender.

I cannot tell from the parts diagram where the smoke lever connects.

I am curious - what pushes the lever?

here's one method a forum member used to add a cam to the axle to drive a cherry switch

Can you use the puff lever to press on a switch on the upstroke and fit a brass mounting plate in there?

Thanks for the reply Carl. I already have a tether with a available pair to the tender. I have the loco completely disassembled for cleaning and oiling but the smoke lever is actuated by the valve gear. I do think I can use a cherry or micro switch to drive the chuff. Just thought I would see if anyone had already done the heavy thinking for me. Not too hung up on number of chuffs on this project but chuff on upstroke seems like a good idea.

Richard    

Most all of the one chuff puffer units use a micro switch on the lever but it would likely take some doing to adapt one of these to your engine.

This is just one of them. It moves the smoke piston as well as contacts the switch.

Pete

Pete....many thanks I have a Lionel parts order building and I will get this and give it a try. Do you know what loco this is associated with? I might see if they have the cherry switch available or take a look at the picture of it. 

Richard

Before I came up with the Chuff-Generator, I used to put magnets on the drivers with a reed switch to trigger chuffs.  That allows you to have them exactly synchronized to the action.  I also experimented with an optical sensor, that might be a way that you could go.  It solves any clearance issues with the drivers as the reflective tape is very thin.

Optical Chuff Switch for Command Upgrades

Richard, That lever is from a 4-6-0 28098. I posted the pic to give you and idea how it was done on this engine. I would be surprised if you could fit it to your engine. Might be better off trying to silver solder something to your existing lever. I think it would be easier to either go with the tender or trailing truck magnets and reed switches. I use optical sensors on the drivers but each one has to be customized for each engine and only works on a few.

I would first want to eliminate the possibility of putting a disk on the output side of the motor if there is any room and going with Johns sensor. You could calibrate it for one chuff if you wanted to synchronize it with the puffer. Might be as simple as drilling a hole in a checker piece.

Pete

Rppoind posted:

Thanks for the reply Carl. I already have a tether with a available pair to the tender. I have the loco completely disassembled for cleaning and oiling but the smoke lever is actuated by the valve gear. I do think I can use a cherry or micro switch to drive the chuff. Just thought I would see if anyone had already done the heavy thinking for me. Not too hung up on number of chuffs on this project but chuff on upstroke seems like a good idea.

Richard    

That was the only project that I could locate on a few search inquires of the forum. never can tell what keywords to use. Poke around a little more. You may find the "heavy lifting" that you seek.

if you mic the axle diameter there are split collars that could be clamped on to the front axle. The could be shaped to cam. The smallest bore is.125" Plastic would be easy to work with. it's 5/8" o.d. and needs .773 clearance.

Maybe...

John.....I have printed your optical chuff pdf. Couple questions.

Can I steal the 5v dc from the fire box flicker board or perhaps leave one with the MC78L05ACDR2GOSCT-ND not populated with leds and use that?

I am using err's AC Commander. Would I use chuff out and the 5v ground to connect to the Commander?

Richard

Carl and Pete.....Many thanks for your efforts. I will review everything this evening and decide which way to proceed.

Richard 

Richard, I steal that small amount of 5V power from the R2LC, pins 19-20.  Since you don't have an IR wireless tether, you should be able to filch a few MA from that supply without doing any damage.

ERR uses R4LC, would the pinout be the same? Does the optical sensor need full wave DC?

Richard

Same pinout, they are essentially the same part.  The R4LC has more memory as it was used for early Legacy, but all the pins are the same.