Cleaning Old RR Lanterns???

I have several that my grandfather collected, but I'm not sure how he cleaned them.  My guess is dish soap and water.  The fuel should of been something like kerosene and not require cleaning because it evaporates cleanly.

Depends on how dirty they are. Are they rusty?

No rust, both are galvanized and other than grimy look good.

In that case, I'd just try dish soap and water, as mentioned. Disassemble as much of them as you can; take the wicks out, and use a toothbrush. If the grime is tough, I'd try using Comet or something siimilar. Rinse and dry thoroughly when finished, and reassemble.

How you should clean a lantern is by first taking the globe out, then cleaning the globe with some Windex.  After that, if you can, take the oil pot out, and then look in the tank to see if there is corrosion.  If so, take some square lamp chain, or something like that, and some white Vinegar, and put both in the tank, and then shake the tank to get the loose corrosion.  Wash out all of the Vinegar, then you can check the wick.  If it is chared at the top then cut it off.  If the wick is short then you will want to order some wick of the corresponding size, from www.lanternnet.com.  After that, then you can take a watered cloth and clean the inside of the metal cylinder that sits above the globe, and check to see if any of the smoke has collected there.  Once every thing is in check, then it should work fine, but and also make sure the wick is cut straight at the top for the proper flame.

For me lantern cleaning is different for each lantern I do. It all depends on the condition of the lantern and the manufacturer. Some manufacturers such as Dietz and Dressel used very soft tinning on their lanterns which allows them to be cleaned using less harsh methods.

Since you say that the lanterns are just dirty and not rusty, I would start with warm soapy water and 0000 steel wool. Start by rubbing lightly with the steel wool and then adjust your pressure accordingly. If they still aren't as clean as you would like after that, then use some metal polish with the 0000 steel wool. Afterwards buff the lantern with a clean dry cloth.

Here is a great way to clean your rusty and painted Lanterns.

Soda Ash and Battery Charger Method  (PREFERRED)
(NOTE:  THIS METHOD PRODUCES HYDROGEN.
CONDUCT ONLY IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND AWAY FROM SPARK OR FLAME)
This method will remove rust, crud, and paint without removing the patina.
1.  Remove the fuel cap, globe, and burner from the lantern.   
2.  Mix 1/4 cup of Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate, NOT Sodium Bi-Carbonate) in 5 gallons of Warm Water in a       plastic container.
3.  Connect the positive (red,) lead clamp of a 12 volt battery charger to an Anode, (a piece of rebar or plain iron,) and submerge the Anode (not the clamp,) in the soda ash water solution along the side of the plastic container.
4.  Connect the negative (black,) lead of the 12 volt battery charger to the lantern. (A leader wire can be used to attach to the lantern.)
5.  Submerge the lantern *entirely in the Solution for **1 day, making sure it does not touch the Anode and short the circuit.
6.  Turn on the battery charger and set to 5 to 10 amps charge for 24 hours
7.  Remove the lantern after 24 hours, and lightly scour with a Brillo pad, (not SOS.) 
5.  Repeat steps 4 through 7 until the lantern is cleaned and suitable for finishing.
6.  Once you are finished, give the lantern one final rinse in the solution, then dry      with paper towels immediately.  Use a blow dryer on low to dry the inside of the      tank. 
7.  After the lantern has been cleaned,  I recommend polishing it first with      Blue Magic (tm) Metal Polish to bring out the luster.  You can also use #0000 steel wool to buff out the lantern.
8.  To finish the lantern ***paint or lacquer it with your choice of finish.  If      using paint, taping off the center air tube on hot blast lanterns, or the chimney on cold      blast lanterns, makes for a professional, like factory, looking job.  If the filler      spout is brass, you might also tape it off as well.  This also goes for brass wire      guides and lift brackets as well.  The burner cone and burner should be left      unfinished.  An alternative to painting tin plated lanterns is to wipe them down with      a small amount of boiled linseed oil.
 

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I tried the easy way and hit the ACL lantern with soap and water, not much happened except I got some soot all over the counter top

The oil/fuel bowl doesn't seem to come out, could it be rusted in place?

It could be rusted in place or just a really tight fit with some added grime holding it tight. You could also use some carburetor cleaner or brake clean spray to remove some of the soot and grime. 

I've soaked lanterns in buckets of Zep toilet bowl cleaner with good results.

I know some of them twist into place, with the wick knob being the part "locking" it in place.

There is a book on this subject.

http://www.georgiarrdepot.com/

Lantern cleaning 101:

NO STEEL WOOL, NONE.

Tinned finished will be ruined. Maybe if the lantern is a basket case or the top is rusted from the finish being burned off because of a lot of use. The damage even fine steel wool can do can not be reversed.

The absolute worst thing to do is sand or bead blast then spray with a clear coat.

I agree with the sandbalsting but disagree with the steel wool. Some lanterns, as I have mentioned above, have softer tinned finishes but using 0000 steel wool, gently at first, is fine. I've cleaned many lanterns this way.

No, don't sandblast your lanterns.  That is the best way to destroy them.  Sand Blasting is worst then steel wool.  Look at question #7 F. A. Q.

For my collection of old British railway lamps, I use a good car cleaner/polish on the painted surfaces, 'Windex' on the glass, and 'Brasso' on the bare metal parts. These, combined with copious quantities of elbow grease, have given me excellent results.

I think that's the issue I have, seems like I'd have to remove the knob then try taking the tank out.

Not sure that I'd ever use them, but I'd at least like to get them clean (especially the fuel tank) to prevent any further corrosion of the tank.

Those Mr. Clean Magic Erasers work good on a lot of stuff, has anyone tried them on their lanterns?

I purchased the book to see what it suggest since I have over dozen railroad lanterns, some I have used. All need a cleaning, some a need a lot of attention.

My great uncle started working on the Erie railroad in 1912 cleaning lanturn globes,  was paid 12 cents.,  Retired from the rails in 1974  or so.

Glenn