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I use acetone from the hardware store on lettering, etc., on metal pieces, such as most steam loco tenders. I don't recommend it on plastic.

Fingernail polish remover was the way to go at one time, as it contained acetone. The last I bought worked poorly (on the lettering, not my fingernails...), and I understand that acetone is no longer used in it, or at least at a lower level.

At my former place of employment, we used Lectric Shave and Magic Erasers to remove paint from plastic without eating the plastic.  Works best with heat-stamped lettering.  When I converted a Lionel Bethlehem Steel 0-6-0 tank engine to Razorback Traction Co., I just masked off the logos and painted with flat black paint.

Mitch

Careful. MTH uses many cleatvoates so paint and markings don't get damaged easily. My method was to use uncure- a cyanocrite glue remover. You have to use it SPARINGLY and it will eventually eat through the clear coats then each layer of paint. I applied it with a few micro brushes and it did come off in a reasonable amount of time.

Careful. MTH uses many clear coates so paint and markings don't get damaged easily with handling. My method was to use uncure- a cyanocrite glue remover. You have to use it SPARINGLY and it will eventually eat through the clear coats then each layer of paint. I applied it with a few micro brushes and it did come off in a reasonable amount of time.

RadioRon posted:
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

At my former place of employment, we used Lectric Shave and Magic Erasers to remove paint from plastic without eating the plastic.   Mitch

Gee, I don't use an electric shaver anymore, but if I ever resume... I will have serious second thoughts about using Lectric Shave!    

Funnily enough, when I demonstrated removing the silver paint from a Tyco hopper car using Lectric Shave, most of the guys at the train club had the same reaction... 

The stuff actually has a Material Safety Data Sheet label, indicating that one should use gloves and goggles while handling it.... 

Mitch

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