combining two bascule bridges

There are a number of real life bascule bridges next to each other.  In the real world you would only need one control house.  The support towers are an integral part of a truss style bascule bridge (like Lionel's).  They help support the extended part of the bridge.  You will not find a draw bridge/bascule truss bridge without the tower structure because it is structurally unsound.

What would be even more impressive would be installing them end-to-end, across the river or channel. That would be fun to watch - or just see, if they didn't actually work.

Yes I understand that . But I guess what in trying to do is support both spans using three towers  basically kit bash them together .. 

Thank you for the response 

any thoughts would be helpful 

best 

bobby

D500 posted:

What would be even more impressive would be installing them end-to-end, across the river or channel. That would be fun to watch - or just see, if they didn't actually work.

Would be cool but I'm trying to get a double set of tracks over a river 

any thoughts would be helpful 

thanks

bobby

I have a pair connected "end to end." I had the old Bascule bridges but swapped over to the new ones that work much better and have more height. I put a rock looking pier between them and the track comes down and rests on a small track that I used a dremel tool on so it makes a good contact and does not have a bump. I have a T rail layout and it works great. A friend helped me get it installed. Really nice on my layout in front of a Hellgate bridge.

I have same set up of 2 Bascule bridges end to end on the layout with a small piece of track between them. Need to do that or they will hit each other in either up or down direction.

Mine are inherited or passed down to me from my uncle who had postwar trains. I believe these are from 1948 and both are in operating conditions with the built-in, authentic engine growl!!

If you can figure it out it would certainly be impressive! 

  In a row, slight delay on one, and an under cut angle trim to the other and the center support track could possibly be eliminated, but not the support....and who cuts up bascule bridges? I don't see any solution for an isle way with that exact toy design over an isle as you need strong shelf strength in support on at least one span.

  I like them and there are more in Michigan than anywhere. Ive even had them raised for me though it wasnt really needed, lol. But I've not seen two in a row, close.

Still, it must look awesome where there is support for it

I confess that I don't understand the OP's question.  Is the OP asking how to double-track a Bascule Bridge?  If so, good luck cutting up at least one base and one, more likely two, bridge superstructures.

I had both pre-war and a postwar versions on my layout next to each other, but on different grades.  I was pleased with the result. 

carl 

ill try to explain, your standing looking at  two bridge  {lets say no. 1 and no. 2}  bridges pointing in the same direction  

now i want to  remove the support tower and motor house of the bridge that is on bridge 2

find or fabricate a rod that is long enough to  operate both bridges using the motor that is on bridge 1 

now you would have a two bridges connected together but have only 3 support tower

thus making  a narrow  foot print  put fit on my layout 

i hope this helps 

thanks for the response  any feedback is useful

You would probably also need a bigger motor.  The one that is meant to lift one span probably would be stressed quite a bit by lifting nearly 2 spans.

There are other companies that have made much bigger bascule bridges.  There is a giant one at the NJ Highrailers, (I think it's probably 2 tracks (maybe even 3?) wide). It's also a lot longer than 2 track sections for the span.  I don't want to guess what such a model might cost, but something like  it or a smaller cousin might be the way to go.

-Dave

The Bascule Bridge at the Hi-Railers costs them $7,000.

I thought about doing 2 Bascule Bridges side by side on my layout. I was going to place them in opposite directions with the control houses to the outside. Something like this.

I actually decided that since I had to widen the separation between the tracks anyway ( I had wanted to maintain 4.5" center rail to center rail ), I would use one bascule bridge and one lift bridge.

Skip 

Ted Bertiger posted:

The Bascule Bridge at the Hi-Railers costs them $7,000.

Definitely go for a "smaller cousin" for most of our home layouts then!

-Dave

I recently repaired my pre war {1942} bascule bridge. It is a difficult piece to assemble. Mine looked like some one walked on it Both the base and track support were broken in half. I epoxyed them back together using 4d finishing nails as rebar. I then mounted the base on apiece of plywood. I  suggest if you cut off the power house that you do the same. you wouldn't have to fabricate a new rod if you joined the superstructures . this would make it easier to line up the lift arms which can be a bear to do. Also put weight in the hollow counterweight enclosures to take some strain off the motor. I used a bunch of old car wheel weights but fish line sinkers would work also. Good luck on this I think it would be interesting to see this work. The reproductions might be easier to work with. 

Al you think if you want to that is 

sketch me a drawing how you would connect the two it would be very much appreciated.., 

Sorry I can't add anything to the discussion.  But I would love to see a photo or video of the bridges being used end to end.

Thanks,

Ed

Boston, Circa 1904

N&W

B&O

I walk over that bridge everyday ... ( Boston) that is��

I don't know how to send sketches or pictures to the forum .I usually wait for one of my grand kids to do those things. It would be easy to connect the two lift pieces with a small piece of sheet metal . Just attach it to the bottom of bridge.

Sorry Al , when you say attach two lift piece what exactly do you mean.. sorry don't mean to be a pain.. thanks again 

If I interpret Al correctly, he means to screw the 2 moving spans down to a common piece of metal to join them together, rather than mess with all the super structure itself to kit-bash them into one (which would likely be difficult to make structurally sound). 

You would presumably use a piece of metal the same thickness to do the same to the parts that don't move (which will help keep the track the same height on both sides)

I still think you may tax the stock motor too much (definitely if you have 2 full spans, plus new extra metal below them), but I've not tried it to know for sure.

-Dave

Tied together, you might wire the two motors in series so they move in sync together just like you might on a two motor or double headed loco.

To clarify what I meant . If you remove the motor part of one base And use three of the support towers. It would be best to mount the bases together on aboard to provide some structural rigidity. Then you could tie the two lifting structures together using any means you want  even tie wrap .I suggested A thin piece of sheet metal attached under the track surface. the added weight would be small. The concerns others have stated about the motor are valid. I understand the postwar versions are geared lower than the pre war ones.

Thanks Al