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Engineer Joe posted one of my Photobucket photos - he has my permission, of course - but Photobucket wants money from me and has plastered their name all over it.  So let me post a clean photo.  These are Pearce Tool Co. models, but were from the Hines design with most parts preserved from the original Hines.  Henry was a friend - very talented machinist and foundry man.  Wish his expertise was still with us.  He would be around 110 now, so I guess he would not be happy here.

Anyway, photos:

Pearce Tool Co 001Pearce Tool Co 002

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Interesting thread.    I was told second or third hand, so not very reliable, that Henry Pearce never did sell any complete kits after he got the line.     Obviously you know from first hand information that he did.    

I have a friend who had a 2-8-0 that I think was Hines, or might have been Pearce, that was done up beautifully.    I know it is based on the 0-8-0 but it came out very well.    

Here is a Harriman, in 17/64.  Still awaits decals and weathering.  Even though it is a wide firebox type, I chose tender drive.  Shaft will someday be hidden in the ash pan.  Interestingly, this allows me to do a simulated fire tube boiler.  I doubt I will, but you could see the possibilities.  All my tender drive tenders interchange, except maybe for the A/N 4-4-0.  Actually, with few exceptions, almost all my locomotives can swap tenders.

Even the lowly Harriman 0-6-0s get motors in the tender now.  I have quite a few, following the famous OGR series of the early 1990s.

2833 ConsolSP Consolidation

 

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  • SP Consolidation
@bob2 posted:

Here is a Harriman, in 17/64.  Still awaits decals and weathering.  Even though it is a wide firebox type, I chose tender drive.  Shaft will someday be hidden in the ash pan.  Interestingly, this allows me to do a simulated fire tube boiler.  I doubt I will, but you could see the possibilities.  All my tender drive tenders interchange, except maybe for the A/N 4-4-0.  Actually, with few exceptions, almost all my locomotives can swap tenders.

Even the lowly Harriman 0-6-0s get motors in the tender now.  I have quite a few, following the famous OGR series of the early 1990s.

 

...and I hope you will show us them... 

Mark in Oregon 

Yeah - not really into 3-rail.  Not sure where all those motors went - they were six bucks each at the surplus store.  I think I have four left.  Super small, super powerful.

Tender trucks are off the Scout I got for Christmas in 1946.  I did the article for OGR, which even then was almost 100% three rail.

Guess I'll give this thread another shot - Here is the first of my scratchbuilt 0-6-0s.  I built it in four days flat, not counting paint and decals.  I took the Roundhouse HO model and measured it, then cut brass.  It, too, has a heart pump motor in the firebox.  The next shot is one of the subsequent models, using a Pittman 8000-series motor in the tender.  I got a bit better at the Harriman proportions, but the basic model uses the techniques outlined in the OGR series.

We actually blocked out a Ten-wheeler, a Mogul, and a Consolidation using the same techniques, and as I recall, it was published.  I built a 2-6-6-2 using identical techniques, and yes, I shall convert it to tender drive some day.

1104Scratch S-9

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@bob2 posted:

Guess I'll give this thread another shot - Here is the first of my scratchbuilt 0-6-0s. 

1: I built it in four days flat, not counting paint and decals. 

2: I took the Roundhouse HO model and measured it, then cut brass.  It, too, has a heart pump motor in the firebox.  

1104

1: Holy cow!  

2: Nice; looks just like the Roundhouse model. FWIW, when I was into HO, the best running kit-built engine I ever had was one of those...

Mark in Oregon

Thanks.  More to come.

I covered quartering in an ancient OGR, and of course in OSN 48/ft.  Joe Foehrkolb had a neat little jig, but all I do is center-drill the axles and put the assembly between centers on the lathe.  I arrange two toolposts to "catch" the crankpins, and once it is all set up I refrain from touching the crossfeed.

They do not have to be precisely 90 degrees, but must be within a thousandth of each other.  You can measure that with a piece of cellophane.

Also, and insidiously, crankpins must all be exactly the same distance from axle center.  That is another +/- .001".

picture is available . . .

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