Contemplating a Tinplate Layout

Joe, if you are thinking of the almost "high-rail" look of Tom Snyder's standard gauge layout, that means you will not be keeping strictly to tinplate accessories.  This actually opens things up a little bit.  I used a lot of "G scale" parts on my layout, to good effect. I included some scenic elements - not near as much as you would for "high-rail", but a lot more than is common on Standard Gauge layouts.

Standard Gauge does not have any one single "scale".  A Lionel #10 locomotive is made to an entirely different scale from the 381, or the newer Super 381 or Brute.  

"G scale" also does not have one scale.  Some G Scale is made to 1/32 scale, others to 1/22.4 scale, others to 1/24 scale.  You will find that the 1/32 scale G Scale accessories and figures fit well with the smaller Standard Gauge equipment, and the 1/24 scale items fit well with the larger standard gauge.

G scale tunnel portals and  bridges are a great place to start; using them on a standard gauige layout means you will have little trouble running all standard gauge equipment.  Using traditional tinplate bridges like the Hellgate bridge actually limits you to only the smaller standard gauge trains.

The Preiser figures made for G Scale at 1/24 or 1/22.4 are excellent on a standard guage layout. They are right for the big doors and windows on many tinplate stations.

All of these G Scale items can be found through local hobby shops; online with a google search; or on the G scale section of eBay.  

G Scale tunnel portals, single and double track:

G Scale bridges:

and Preiser 1:24 figures, (and some 1/24 diecast vehicles) with vintage tinplate stations:

- david

Wow David!! Thanks for the great pics and Info. You have given me some great ideas to start with. A lot to think about and 99% of my accessories re tinplate I have a couple of stations with no terrace, hellgate, etc.

I pretty much have all of them accept for the Power Station, Hi Tension Tower, and Floodlights. I am hesitant on the power station due to its footprint, andnot sure if I will be able to add it it.

I have the freight shed you have and would like to aquire a few more to make the run of them as you have done. I believe they look better that way. Going to start looking for the portals. Thanks for the info...you made my day!

JoeG

TrainLover160,

    Not to bust your bubble, but I would wait a while before you take over your daughters bed room, most daughters today end up moving back home for a while, unless she has a rock sold better half, already in her life.  Gone thru all this myself and congrats to your daughter on her Masters.  

Good luck with your standard Gauge layout they are fantastic, I would like to put an outer oval of Standard Gauge around my O Gauge Christmas layout, but am fighting a space problem.

Hope you get to use the room!

PCRR/Dave

You can make your own tunnel portal rather easily. I built a plain 2-track timber portal for  the Gadsden Pacific Toy Train Museum. I cut and stained two uprights and a crosspiece out of basswood (or maybe it was balsa, I forget). Then I put the portal together into a background pieced together from a plaster cast rock wall. I'd post a photo but the only one I could find is out of focus. 

Tunnel portals can be as realistic or toy like, but the realistic ones always seem to be at odds with the toy like appearance of the trains in my opinion.  For a "concrete" portal I have taken the quarter inch insulation sheets (sold a most hardware outlets) and carved away, cut, glued and painted my way to a portal I like.  The upside is that it is fairly cheap and if you screw it up--throw it away and start again.  I have also printed and mounted to foam core other types of portals.  The photos tell the story, but whatever you do...it's great, as long as it makes you smile.

Dave,

  Can you clarify if you made your "1907" portal from scratch? If yes, can you post some more details or a new topic how you made it? Nice job.

 Thanks, ,Tom 

HoJack,

I really like the looks of your portal in pict0106. This is the one with the train coming thru it. Did you make this? Also , do you know the item number of the silver lamps you used in front of the freight sheds? I believe there was 3 . I like the height on the them.

PCRR Dave

I thought about the very same thing, however, if there is there is 3rd bedroom / office that would work out if those circumstances came up. BTW...on that space problem, Go Up? That is what we did. You can see ours on Youtube by searching Joe Gozzo. There are 2 Christmas vids there.

Dave Wilson

I too like the 1907. Is the a G scale portal?

JoeG

More ongoing thoughts make me wonder about the size?

• is it going to be big enough?
• Should I try to draw up a scale plan 1/4" = 1ft, or wing it.
• Thinking of taking off the sliding closet doors, installing white shelving all the way around, and lighting to highlight the collection. if the wifey lets me?
• I have wanted to do this for so long that I do not want to over or under think it. We have done a huge Christmas display every year with last year being the being the biggest with two SG trains, an o gauge tinplate set, a die-cast set, and a Disney Monorail, with about 60 Dept. 56 buildings. Therefore, I am looking to setting this up, PERMANENLY, and worry about any take down.

JoeG

Definitely do a scale drawing. It will reduce (but not eliminate) the nasty surprises when you start construction. Or you can do what I did - lay it all out on the floor. This is most of the 0 gauge portion of my layout - there is also a loop of Standard Gauge track around the outside.

For standard gauge the amount of space you have may be a little tight, especially for buildings like the large Lionel powerhouse and 60 Dept 56 buildings.

I suggest you make a scale model of the layout in cardboard to help visualize the space and avoid future headaches. Make a cardboard cutout footprint of each building and see how many will fit.

Oh, and don't forget access. How far can you reach and will you need any access holes, etc.

Have fun!

Great  tips. All things to be considered.

Thanks,

JoeG

Trainlover160,

    Joe hope all works out well for ya, was just trying to give you a heads up on the daughter front, I do not use Youtube or face book or any other of the medias, so I am unable to see your video's.  Thanks much for trying however.  

PCRR/Dave

Joe,

The tall silver lamp posts are Lionel #63, they are 13" tall: these are MTH 10-1108 reproductions.

I did not make the tunnel portals, they are made of a molded dense foam, sold for G Scale. The two-track portal is made by Aristocraft, number ART-7402. It's big.

david

Joe,

The "1907" portal is printed paper mounted on foam core.  What I did was find a suitable "stone" background on the internet, and then I built the portal in a graphics program on the computer.  I use photoshop, but others have used various other programs.  I have them printed and mounted at the FedEx store, I use a wall paper knife and some white glue. 

Another poster on the forum, "Handy Andy" also prints and builds tinplate looking pieces for his layout.  If you do a search I'm sure you'll see some of his projects.

If you're interested in this approach, don't let knowledge of graphics software keep you from trying.  It's actually very easy, and you can produce some nice pieces with just a little knowledge and a willingness to try.  Good luck. 

I like the work you guys have been doing with computer graphics and paper. I have made up a few repair parts for buildings the same way.

However, I have a warning. Most computer print outs are not light fast and will fade quickly. They will certainly show distinct fading within a year or two (depending upon how much light they are exposed to). This may or may not be an issue...

I have avoided computer printed parts on my current layout under construction, as I plan for the layout to last decades, and color fastness is a real issue for me.

There are more light fast computer printing techniques, like giclee, and better paper helps, but the cost go up significantly.

Have fun.

I've had some of my paper buildings for 5 years or so.  No fading as of yet.  I do keep them in a garage/basement environment.  Minimal light intrusion. Air Conditioner keeps the humidity in check.  Cost for replacement vary depending on the building of course, but many wouldn't set me back more than 12 bucks or so if I decided to replace them. 

Nice thing about paper "tinplate" is if it does get damaged it is easily replaced as long as you keep the original graphics files to reprint. A lot easier to get a replacement than hunting down real tin.

On the other hand, paper tinplate (paper-plate?) can be a stand in until suitable real tin can be found.

Nice buildings Dave.

My guess is that some printer inks will last longer than others, but they are all more or less "fugitive" as they weren't really designed to "last forever".

I have sprayed some paper with a artist grade UV protective varnish which helps delay light fading. But of course, do a test first.

http://www.dickblick.com/produ...rWmXrbi6QaAq1A8P8HAQ

Thanks for the info on the varnish sealant.  I have never much thought of a coating for the finished product, but if it helps them last, I give it a go.

How is the coloring?  Does it produce a amber effect on the finished product?

Dave,

It was difficult but I found the no 63 lamps. Did not realize they were made a while ago, and some dealer were selling for $10 over retail. Was able to get for a great price from OGR Dealer Pat's Trains.

JoeG

Glad you found the 63's you wanted.  They are quite imposing, and not something you see on every standard gauge layout. I forgot to warn you about the special bulbs... they get a little pricey also.

d

"How is the coloring?  Does it produce a amber effect on the finished product?"

Dave, sorry for the delayed response... The Golden varnish is one of the most clear varnishes you can use. It is designed to be used on artwork (paintings, drawing, etc).

Experiment on a sample first, as it does have a tendency to look like the varnish has a textured surface, but that disappears as it drys.

Looking good on your "floor" pre-benchwork design.  I am in about the same boat, but my room still has furniture I have to work around.  I started some of the narrow shelf work that leads off my workbench into the girder bridges that will span the window next to my desk.  I plan to have the continious loop go across my workbench.  This sets my layout at a comforable height to work at from my desk chair.  I did the whole waist to chest high benchwork on my last layout and it wasnt enjoyable to work on or do scenery work.  So I am going lower with a removable span (for door swing space and access) for the live steam loop.  The rest of my layout will be point to point clockwork operation.  The narrow shelf towards my bench will simulate trains coming from off the layout or departing off to distant places.   Cant wait to see your bench work come together.   Mike