Control panel track diagram

Hi Eth,

Here's a sample of what I do. These are metal BUD boxes, of which I have three for the main sections of my layout. The graphics are done using the PowerPoint draw function. Then I print onto Avery 8 1/2 x 11 ink jet clear sheet (18665 @ Staples), which I then apply to the box. Then I drill the holes and install the switches.

have fun!

Gary F.

I used Lexan (Lowes) and painted black on the back side. I used green striping tape on the top side for the diagram. The wood is 1 1/2 x 1/2 inch oak. It's hinged so you can get to the wires for the switch controllers.

David

KD and others gave a good how-to approach for materials/implementing a control panel. My panel is still a work in progress so I am unable to show pictures.

A couple of things to think about. 

1. Where are is it going in your train room floor plan. On top of a lectern, drop-down from the side of the layout table, how will you get to it to make repairs/maintence - Where it is going has a lot to do with its construction.

2. How big is it? Overall dimensions will help in getting the Lexan cut to size before you leave the store. Draw a plan for it on a piece of paper before you begin construction. Make sure you can work with it before you invest the time.

3. How many turnouts are you controlling? How many levels are involved? The number of turnouts will drive the overall size and spacing and if levels are involved, you may have to subdivide. You may not end up with one gigantic panel, but a couple. Are accessory or lite controls on the panel as well?

4. Wiring from the panel and the 'toggles' to the turnouts - think it thru how this will work. You may opt for wiring the panel, connecting thru Euro terminal strips, a simple backing and then run the wires to the turnout. Consider where it will be in relation to the power center.

I chose a full track plan image, not just the straight lines as in a steam era switch station or as you see depicted/described above. I put 5mm lights in the plan to show power is on before/after a turnout as well as the toggle to activate the turnout. Extra wiring that I implemented when I made the power drops to each block on the layout.

I used a version of Atlas Freeware to create the track plan - though my tracks are not Atlas - and made it large enough to make sense. Then I took the printout to a 'sign' maker. They had the editing facility to take 8.5x11 and make it scaled larger to make it usable for my purposes. I had them prepare the plan on a sticky back vinyl like material - I made sure drilling would be no issue - affixed to the Lexican, then I drilled the holes for the toggles and lights. Wiring in progress -- I have a lot of turnouts - multiple panels are involved.  My time excluded, the Lexican, Vinyl material and labor was less than $100.

Ralph

I outlined my track plan on the panel with pinstriping tape. It has held up very well.

On mine, I used GIMP (freeware, similar to Photoshop) to draw the panel. I created a number of "path" objects, and then used the "stroke path" command to draw the lines. Used the "eraser" tool to divide the lines into blocks. I was too lazy to go to Kinko's, so I printed mine on four sheets of paper and taped them together. This was sandwiched between two sheets of acrylic.

As seen in the post above I used pin striping tape for a full track plan.
It's not so easy to see but all my turnouts have a flush mounted controller at the switching points on the schematic . Each turnout controller has a green and a yellow LED. Green for normal yellow for thrown. I use under the table R/C aircraft servos for switch machines.

All yard tracks and sidings should be on a switch so you can park engines there and not burn up the smoke units.You also don't need passenger car lights burning if your not using them. but you can save yourself some time and clutter if you don't put a light on each and everyone of the yard track and sidings it's not needed.

A simple way around this is to install  each toggle switch so that when the toggle is in the ON position the handle is away from you . When its' OFF the handle is toward you.
This allows you to look at a glance at your control panel and tell if you've got power to this track or that. Your control board should be hinged so you can have easy access to the back side for maintenance and additions.


David

Eth,

I used 1/4" thick masonite for my present control panel, but I imagine that 1/8” would work fine for a smaller panel. I primed it and then painted it semi-gloss white. I used 1/4” wide tape to represent the track. In the past I have used aluminum and plastic for the control panels, and although they worked fine, the masonite seems to me to be the easiest to buy and to use.

I used small toggle switches (ON-OF) to control the power to the track (via relays) and mounted them right on the track, on the panel. I used momentary ON-OFF-ON to control the turnouts, and mounted these along the bottom of the panel with the appropriate turnout number. The turnout numbers are the same as on the DCS AIU.

I also added bi-color (red-green) LED’s at the turnout locations to indicate the turnout present directions.

The panel is 19" high and 37" wide.  (Click on the images to enlarge.)

The control console is 5-ft tall.

Good luck!

Alex

Thanks for the great idea and photos.

What type of tape did you use and where did you get it?

Thanks,

Eric

A number of very professionally built contol panel.

Thank you for taking the time to post the photos.

Hello,

I had used RailModeler to design my layout and I printed a 1/12 paper copy to use as I was laying track. My initial design needed some tweaking so I made adjustments to my RailModeler master copy and added color for good looks. Next was the creation of a PDF file and burning to a CD. I took the CD to a Kinkos and they printed my layout on a piece of oversize white adhesive backed paper, which I attached to an 1/16" sheet of plastic.

Being careful, I drilled the holes for the toggle switches, LEDs, and the turnout actuator mounting screws. I don't have it mounted yet because I miscalculated the space needed for the panel above the transformer, etc.

Good luck with yours.

I did mine with a ruler and a sharpie.

I took a copy of my RR Tracks track plan and changed the size to the size of my sheet of Lexan that I cut. Took the file to Office Depot and had them print it out at full size, cost $3. Taped the full size track plan to the back of the Lexan so I could see it from the front. Used automotive pinstripes to follow along the tracklines, remove the track plan print, painted the back of the Lexan white. Built a frame for it.

Great thread, thanks for the great ideas!

My layout is all Fastrack, a dozen turnouts, no control panel yet.  I kind of like the Fastrack switch controllers.

I am thinking of a control panel with the fastrack controllers mounted in two banks at the top above a diagram of the layout with each switch numbered.  Any better ideas?

I used paint brush (on the computer) for mini control panel. 

If you have Corel Draw or Office PowerPoint (PPT example below) you can do your design and create a pdf file.  Take the PDF to any of the 'quickie' sign shops in your area.  They will cut a vinyl sheet for you and give you instructions on how to do the transfer on to whatever material you use.  I use 1/4 masonite.  Gives a very professional looking panel.  Russ