Conventional engines with DCS

All you should need is power in to the variable input on the TIU, it'll create the variable power on the output side.  Obviously, the TIU has to be powered by fixed #1 or the aux power.

I have my test track wired with a jumper set between fixed 1 and variable one with a single 180W brick.  I can run conventional with that arrangement just fine by connecting the track to the variable output.  I use the fixed #1 output to run DCS/TMCC engines.

Thanks, John.  So I would need a second brick or a jumper as you describe.  What does a jumper consist of?  A red and black wire from Fix 1 to Var 1 input?  Or just one wire from red to red or blk to blk?  Sorry, but I am not an eletrical wiz

Jerry,

The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition, Part VII - Operating Conventional Engines, provides everything you need, or could want, to know about operating conventional trains under DCS.

This and a whole lot more is all in "The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", now available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book from MTH's web store site! Click on the link below to go to MTH's web page for the book!

Unless you exceed the capacity of the one brick, all you need is to jumper the fixed channel 1 input power to the variable channel 1 input power 1-to-1, red to red, black to black.

Note that you should ONLY connect a single output channel to the rails, never connect two channels to the same set of tracks!

The banana plugs are conveniently spaced so you can use commercial 2-pole banana connector plugs to daisy-chain power, or you can use standard wires on the binding posts.

One point to be aware of if you have a speeding problem.  If you feed 20 or so volts into the Variable circuit, you may be unable to slow the trolleys down far enough.  Reason is that the Variable circuit alters the wave form, making it no longer a pure sine wave, so motors need less voltage.  For example, I cnanot run a conventional Docksider on a Variable circuit with 20 volts input--even set at 5.5 volts, it flies. 

It is my understanding that feeding output from a controller into a TIU variable input, rather than straight from a brick, doesn't work well.  You might find that feeding controller putput into Fixed 2 would be better.  I say not fixed 1 if that's how you're powering the TIU; a Radio Shack wall wart feeding the Aux input is the best way to go.

You may have to get a cheap regular transformer, like the old postwar Lionels, that outputs a sine wave at all out put voltages.

John and RJR,

Thanks for your kind responses.  It works!  The jumper was the missing factor.  The Corgi trolley was easy to control with no problem.  The motors were installed by PA Heritage Models and seem to respond well to my Z-1000, the jumper and my remote.  And Barry I will be buying your book soon....just debating on whether I get the digital or paper copy.

Yep, no power into the channel, no power out.

Glad you got it running.

What's with these titles under our names?

It's a new feature of the board, it's tied to your post count.  There's a thread on it in the 3-Rail forum.

The Webmaster fouled up again.  I am sole stockholder:  "The Big Boss!"

I see Barry is only #6.  In my book, he's #1.