Converting a Ross switch

Not sure your nuts but I don't see no reason it can't be done. Just make sure one side is insulated from the other. 

 

My concern, will two rail locos and cars run thru the switch without derailing?

You can set up one or more branches off the switch for 2 rail operation. What are you trying to do?

 

Larry

I have 7 Atlas Zephyr cars and 2 weaver E8s in 2 rail. What we are doing is running a 8' x 32' 3 rail layout. I want to be able to, using a DPDT switch, swithch half of the 4 switches to 2 DC operation so I can run my 2 rail locos.

 

Dick

Correct me if I'm wrong.

As I see it, you will have 2 rail trains on one or two sidings and wish to pull them out into the mainline. You will be running both 2 rail and 3 rail trains on the same layout, but not at the same time.

 

I am not familiar with the turnout in question, but in theory if you can isolate all the outer rails from each other, you may be able to wire 2 of the turnouts for 2 rail. You may have to modify the turnouts yourself to accomplish this.

 

Larry

So it's not just the switch but also the running track itself that has to be isolated. I hope you planned for this in the wiring if those track sections or blocks. Unless you purchased the switches prewired, both the Ross switches and gargraves(I presume) track are inherently isolated. If you planned for this in your wiring you would have dedicated only one outer rail as a return line (I.e. negative side) for the loop or loops.

As I am electrically challenged can I get a sketch of this, please?

 

thanks

 

Dick

Too little info, so far.

 

How many tracks, what's the track diagram look like, how many switches, type of track (manufacturer) and most importantly, do you have any reverse loops on the layout? Reverse loops will be a deal-breaker, I'm afraid, without a much deeper knowledge of train wiring.

 

Not trying to discourage you, or insult you, but "electrically challenged" and "electric trains" are not two phrases that we want to read in the same message, if we are to help you.  There is no one simple "sketch" that will give you the total picture.

 

You need to tell us how much you really DO know about how your track is wired at present, and how much you really DO know about the differences between 2- and 3-rail running.  Then we can assess what to tell you and how to make diagrams for you to read.

 

The project sounds intriguing, but there are details that need to be ironed out.

 

Here's the very first tip: To make it all work, ultimately, one outside rail, whether it runs through a switch, or if it is part of regular track, must be CONTINUOUS, and ISOLATED, throughout the ENTIRE layout.  That means no individual insulated rails for any control circuits for signals or operating accessories.  Do you have enough electrical understanding to be able to physically trace, and electrically test, that situation?  From your message, it sounds like you think that rewiring just the switches will somehow also create the correct electrical situation in the track sections that are connected to the switches. That's unfortunately not the case. The track switches do not control electricity (except in rare cases) but only control train routing.

 

If you understand the questions above, then we can go on to the next part of the solution. But be prepared to learn how to use a meter, and how to wire relays and diodes, and how to make DC from AC. All these lessons have already been posted over the years, so a visit to the dusty archives should be your first task.

 

I look forward to helping.

 

Do you have the switch in question installed on your layout at the present time, or is this an hypothetical question. A photo or sketch of your present layout or a sketch of your envisioned layout would help.

 

Larry

I'm thinking it is 2 simple loops connected by a Ross Double slip. I don't think you'd have to contend with the complexity of the switch itself, but managing the power to the rails.

 

Simply running though one side of the double slip, I can only figure it using 2 switches though, one to control AC/DC power lines in and the other to control wire routing to the rails.

 

I'd want to see the 2 loops isolated to some degree. Both 3 rail loops could be tied together before the power input switch to the outside loop.

 

I'd want the 3 rails on the outside loop isolated from each other.

 

 

I'll be interested to see how someone does it with one switch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This seems to be the 4 way switch that is being discussed. Here are the wiring instructions for reference.

 

Larry

Okay, shoot, I got this thread mixed up with his other thread about the double crossover on the 2 rail forum. I think the same principles are going to apply here but like others would like to see more of the plan. 

I think this will work. You can use this technique as color coded through your whole 2 rail side and through each branching switch.

Which manufacturer(s) track system(s) are compatible with the Ross switch AND have outside rails insulated from each other? That will determine what track must be used to make the layout.

 

Larry

Larry,

You are correct. I assumed it would be Gargraves track, but I guess he could use Atlas or MTH flex.