Couplers

Does it actually have electro couplers on it?

Do you have the item number?

Yes! It has electro couplers. They worked fine before. I packed the train away for a few weeks while I moved some things around. Now they don't work. As I mentioned in my post, when I hit the couplers button on the remote, it makes the sound, but they do not open. Item # is Atlas1316-2. I live 30 minutes from Atlas in Hillside NJ. I have had Bill do some cosmetic work on this train before. But I'm trying to learn more about the mechanics myself so I don't have to pay someone everytime I need work done.

Have you tried applying maximum voltage to operate the electrocouplers?

I have a couple of LC+ locomotives in which the electrocouplees do not open unless I have the power from the transformer at 20+ volts.

You're playing with fire Arnold, Lionel electronics specifies a maximum of 19 VAC.

I've found that on TMCC and early Legacy (could be LC+ as well), that you need at least 16 VAC on the track for couplers to work.  I run with 18 VAC Lionel PH180 bricks, and I've never had any issues with a properly operating locomotive couplers operating properly.

I have a Lionel 180w 18v Power Master Brick hooked directly to the TMCC lockon to the track. When I check the track voltage it reads 17volts. As I mentioned before, they worked fine, until I put the train away in it's box for a few weeks. Now they don't open. It makes the sound when I press the button on the remote. But does not open.

If it's just one engine, I'd say something has happened to that engine.

Yes it is "just that engine" was hoping to get tips on what may be wrong & how to fix it???

But looks like I'll be heading to Atlas for repairs...

Thanks!

@Hippieroofer posted:

Yes it is "just that engine" was hoping to get tips on what may be wrong & how to fix it???

But looks like I'll be heading to Atlas for repairs...

Thanks!

Well, Atlas used Lionel parts and since it is TMCC, it's just a normal coil coupler.

https://ogrforum.com/...=lastReply#lastReply

"What coupler???" topic https://ogrforum.com/...7#163743230017438237

I seem to recall reading Posts in the past that referred to ‘sticky’ couplers; the solution for which was a ‘lubricant’ specifically developed to correct this problem.  Might it be something as simple as this (since the Post indicates the engine has been stored for a few weeks)?

Ooooo! I do remember reading about that "sticky couplers"

I'll give that a try...

Theres 2 possibilities: Electrical failure or mechanical failure

If you hear the solenoid buzz when you try to open the coupler and it doesnt open, then try pulling on the knuckle as you press the button. If it opens, then shoot a puff of dry graphite into the knuckle and continue open and closing the coupler until it frees up.

If you dont hear the solenoid buzzing, then chances are you have something electrical going on. Either its unplugged or a broken wire somewhere between the board and the coupler. Flip it over and check the solder points on the coupler, thats a common failure point for the wire to break.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

You're playing with fire Arnold, Lionel electronics specifies a maximum of 19 VAC.

I've found that on TMCC and early Legacy (could be LC+ as well), that you need at least 16 VAC on the track for couplers to work.  I run with 18 VAC Lionel PH180 bricks, and I've never had any issues with a properly operating locomotive couplers operating properly.

Thanks, John, for the warning. I normally run my speed control locomotives at 16 or 17 volts, so I'll make a point of never exceeding 18 volts.

I think it's something electrical.?.? No buzzing or any sort of sound from the mechanism that opens the couplers. I spoke to Bill from Atlas. He suggested that I try pressing  TR, then 0, then Eng, then the Eng#, then Set on the remote to clear any lashup or such...

The engines lights blink on & off after doing so. Which i believe means something is wrong with the wiring...

@Hippieroofer - Any update on your coupler issue?

I got them to open manually with the end of a paperclip.  Took it to my local guy at The Station in Mt.Lakes, NJ. He tested it on his track. They still won't open with the Cab1. So off to Hillside to drop it off with Bill S. at Atlas. I'll let you guys know what he says the problem is after I pick it up from getting fixed.

Hey guys!

Thanks for all the help. Turns out the R2 board was shot. Apparently the smoke fluid i used corroded the board. Hence the couplers would not open. Bill S. from Atlas fixed it up all good.

Thanks again, Joe