Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

My idea is to stop using it (if possible) .........bundle it together for use as a boat anchor.  Before I rant on too much, myself and several Forumites have vented plenty about RealTrax.   In other words......your experience pretty much matches ours.  In case you don't know the original version (lets' call it Version 1)  is/was pretty good. I have plenty of it and really wouldn't mind selling it (even at a loss....it's in vg shape, but will sell as is). 

       I also have some version 2 and version 3.  What i see that happened on the later versions is either the copper tabs at the ends are thinner (without a doubt ) and/or the thin copper tabs and metal "ribs" are a crappy alloy.

   The switches are pretty much in line with these "horror stories" . Nope your experience is par for the unfun!

P.S...........about a year ago, I bought a NOS crossover....packaging was crisp and looked exactly like another......shortly after installation my engines dies at that crossover (TMCC Electronics - YIKES). Upon chasing down the offending problem.........the 45 degree crossover.....I found it was roughly/badly soldered....unlike the other crossovers I had!

I don't know anything about realtrax, but I am surprised to hear disparagement of fastrack.  I have only used it for Christmas layouts some years and was under the impression it is quite rock solid.  Interesting.  I'd ask to learn more of possible problems, but that will certainly head downhill too fast.  Feel free to email me at my screen name at yahoo dot com for what to look out for with future use.  

Funny this thread should come up. I use RealTrax and find that sometimes the pieces are hard to connect. I have had some issues with dead spots, soldiering the underside seems to take care of the problem. I do very much like the look of RealTrax.

I'm considering switching to Gargraves track. Any thoughts? Does it have dead spots? Pros/ cons? Is the flex track really flexible and to what degree? Thanks for any help/suggestions from the group would be most appreciated. 

I used all Realtrax.... about 90% of it was bought used.  I have 13 Realtrax switches, all but 2 were also bought used.

Out of all of this, I think I had 2, maybe 3 "dead" sections of track.  One of the switches had a separated/torn connection strip inside, but was fixed by soldering a new piece of wire in it's place.

I'm not sure what the gripe is about Realtrax, but I have no issues with it.  Now, if I could do it over (and I actually may, I'd use the common GG w/Ross Switches combo.  The reasoning for this wouldn't be functionality though, it'd be more for looks and because I'd like to be able to run some PW magnetraction locos, especially on the inclined section.  

The two loops shown below are broken into four blocks and all of the power drops are soldered to the underneath of one piece of track in each block.  

Two years later and no dead spots.  

20170324_001351

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 20170324_001351
GSauder posted:

The fast trak problems are about long term durability as the metal will decal and rust quite quickly, but it does work  much better than this Real Track garbage.

Fastrack has been on my layout continuously since 2007.  The last batch I purchased in 2009.

20x40 foot layout. 10 switches.   Zero issues. Zero Rust. Zero Electrical conductivity problems.   I run Legacy/TMCC and DCS.

I used to run RealTrax.  I changed simply for a subjective reason; I like the looks of FT better.

The only issue I had with the RealTrax was the small copper connectors did not like multiple put together and taking apart.   I'd take a needel nose and fix it.  Like Mike above, once I figured out how to be careful, I never had any dead sections.

Last edited by EscapeRocks
Aliquippa & Southern posted:

Funny this thread should come up. I use RealTrax and find that sometimes the pieces are hard to connect. I have had some issues with dead spots, soldiering the underside seems to take care of the problem. I do very much like the look of RealTrax.

I'm considering switching to Gargraves track. Any thoughts? Does it have dead spots? Pros/ cons? Is the flex track really flexible and to what degree? Thanks for any help/suggestions from the group would be most appreciated. 

IMHO Gargraves is a better choice.  I have both Gargraves and RealTrax on my layout.  The RealTrax is used on my elevated trolley line and I've had many dead spot issues with it.  RT is challenging for me to put together, although I've seen guys put it together with great ease.   Never a problem with my Gargraves track ... been using it for 14 plus years. 

trumptrain posted:
Aliquippa & Southern posted:

Funny this thread should come up. I use RealTrax and find that sometimes the pieces are hard to connect. I have had some issues with dead spots, soldiering the underside seems to take care of the problem. I do very much like the look of RealTrax.

I'm considering switching to Gargraves track. Any thoughts? Does it have dead spots? Pros/ cons? Is the flex track really flexible and to what degree? Thanks for any help/suggestions from the group would be most appreciated. 

IMHO Gargraves is a better choice.  I have both Gargraves and RealTrax on my layout.  The RealTrax is used on my elevated trolley line and I've had many dead spot issues with it.  RT is challenging for me to put together, although I've seen guys put it together with great ease.   Never a problem with my Gargraves track ... been using it for 14 plus years. 

Thank you for your input. Too often I make changes without talking to others as to their opinion and experience with a particular product.

Add Reply

Post
This forum is sponsored by MTH Electric Trains
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×