Curved switches

why not just install a 0-72 switch?

FasTrack O72 Remote/Command Control RH Switch

Fastrack doesn't make a curved switch. Sounds like you need to look at Atlas or Ross. There are three O72/54 Atlas on ebay.

Well I have 072 FT switches but in this case I need to come off of the curve in order to get the length that I want in the siding.  I believe Atlas and Ross makes curved switches, but I'm not sure if they make transition pieces to mate with tubular track.

Gargraves makes pins which allow connection of tubulr and Gargraves track.  I believe Ross switxhes use Gargraves track or are identical, so these pins should work.

I have several curved switches on my layout, which are R-O-W or Ross-Curtis (both long having passed on).  They are connected to the adjoining Gargraves track with regular Gargraves pins.

Gargraves and Ross use the identical track pins. I have Ross curved switches (054/072). A friend of mine had the Atlas. He was none to pleased with his.

I'm still laying track, but have been checking track work with various cars and a dummy locomotive. For my Ross curved switches I have to say "so-far, so-good".

Yep I see the 072/054 curved switches on ebay.  So would that be an 072 curve with an 054 as the switch curve or the other way around?

I'm pretty sure the O72 is outer. It would be kinda tight the other way.

Can you put the siding outside your O72 curve? I have a similar siding under an upper level where the main uses the curve of the switch and the siding goes off the straight part of the switch and curves next to the main. May not work for you; just a thought.

Yes, that would work.  What I really need is a big basement, but now I'm dreaming.

Here are a couple of ideas for your consideration.  Not knowing the specifics of your plan and why you need a curve switch, you can modify these as needed to fit your need.  One uses a Ross O-72/O54 LH curved switch to take the siding to the inside of the O-72 curve.  The other uses a Ross #6 LH curved switch (basically O-96/O-72) to take the siding to the outside of the O-72 curve.  The 180 degree curve on the left is made up of Ross O-72 sectional track.

Thanks Ron, looks like the 96/72 would work perfectly in right hand.

Why wouldn't a Fastrack O72 switch work with the curve side integrated into the loop and the straight starting the siding?  You could immediately add an O72 curve section to the straight.  Would this take too much space?

I use Ross 096-072 curve switches on my tubular track layout and they work very well with the adapter pins by Gargraves,Ross also sells 072 Tubular switches,better than Lionel 072 switches.

Mikey

Mikey,

Are there are special wiring considerations with Ross switches?

Roller spacing may be an problem.  The most sure fire way is to go to Ross' website, download the particular switch's pdf (at full size use the tile option in the print menu) and grab a ruler.

Nathan

Mr Union Pacific posted:

Mikey,

Are there are special wiring considerations with Ross switches?

Ross switches do not come wired for anti-derailing.  You will have to add and wire an insulated frog side rail to make the switches anti-derailing.  It's all shown in the instructions that come with the switch.  If you are using DZ1000 switch motors, you will also need to wire in the included buttons for changing direction (even if you wire for remote use like I do with an MTH AIU).  If you don't do this the red and green direction LED's will only light when there are cars passing through the switch.  The instructions also refer to jumpers required for unwired switches.  That did not apply to mine for what ever reason as the jumpers were part of the switch.

http://www.rossswitches.com/te...cal/zmacinstruct.jpg

I just used the O54/O72 curved switches on my most recent build.  They are nice, but not 100% trouble free.  My favorite MTH steamer sometimes de-rails going through the O54 turnout of one of the switches.  And you will also find you will have to "tweak" some center electrical rails to get operating cars contact shoes to not bind.  As far as the de-railing, I spoke to Steve at RCS and he was very helpful.

Tony 

For wiring help we need to know what type of switch machines you plan to use, and what type of control system (DCS, TMCC, or conventional push button only).

Ross switches can be controlled by Z-Stuff's DZ-1000 or DZ-2500 switch machines, Atlas switch machines, or Tortoise switch machines.  There are other discontinued machines out there that would work too.

Tony's link above shows how to wire the non-derailing feature of a DZ-1000 using conventional push button; this should work for Atlas machines too. 

The issue with any curved switch is the gap caused by the unpowered lead rails of the switch, causing smaller (and some large) engines to stall on the switch. The lead rails are not powered to prevent shorting when the engine’s center roller crosses them. This is really noticeable on the #6 curved switch because of the long lead rails. To fix this you need to use a DZ-1008 relay to apply power to the lead rails, but alternating the power on the lead rails such that the polarity is correct for the passing train. Unfortunately Z-Stuff’s web page does not have a lot of info on this.

I use DZ-2500 switch machines to get the TMCC functionality, so my solution will be a bit different than if you use other types of machines. The green and yellow wires of the DZ-1008 will be connected to the green and yellow wires of the switch machine for non-derailing. Track power for the lead rails will come from the DZ-1008's blue wire connected to the center rail of the track.  The relay will alternate this track power to the appropriate lead rail through the gray and white wires.  You will have to do some trial and error to make sure the correct lead rail is powered for switch direction. Below is the diagram I use. 

Below is a diagram for DCS.  If you run conventional, you could replace the AIU with a conventional 2-button switch controller.  Setting up a DZ-1000 should be similar to this.

FWIW, I've had more problems with Atlas curved switches than any other kind.  I would personally be reluctant to install a curved switch on a mainline if there was any other way to solve the problem.

When laying the switch, make sure to keep it flat, no binding or humps due to the mating of the two kinds of track.

Hi Mr UP,

Tony and CAPILOT gave you the perfect answer for wiring the switches,I have one Locomotive that the pilot truck jumps the rail and that is the MTH 4-12-2 Steamer so it runs on Loop 2 or 3.

Mikey

Excellent food for thought.  I believe I will think on this for a bit.   I would hate to install something that may cause problems.