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Santiago,

Considering your focus on excellence, wouldn't it make some sense to ship the body to a recommended professional painter? I'm sure Eric and some others could make a recommendation. It would also permit you to work on something else.

 I completely understand the desire to shoot it yourself. I have to wait until winter here in Texas for a dry low humid day. I've got a bunch of cars I'm waiting to shoot this winter. It can sure be frustrating. Best of luck.

Ron H 

Ron, thanks but I'm confident I can do this. Really the problem was the primer, I won't be using vallejo anymore. I also love the challenge. Hell, what was that MFA good for if I can't even paint a scale model The undercarriage came out perfect. Also, this project has been approved for an article, so I better put my game face on. I do have the utmost respect for pro painters. The finest of crafts! 

This learning curve is more than necessary for me if I'm to paint that protocraft XM-32 car.

 

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

Ron, thanks but I'm confident I can do this. Really the problem was the primer, I won't be using vallejo anymore. I also love the challenge. Hell, what was that MFA good for if I can't even paint a scale model The undercarriage came out perfect. Also, this project has been approved for an article, so I better put my game face on. I do have the utmost respect for pro painters. The finest of crafts! 

This learning curve is more than necessary for me if I'm to paint that protocraft XM-32 car.

 

Understood ! It'll be fantastic.

Ron H

IMG_5108IMG_5110New primer coat. I used Revell basic primer, does not leave a perfect surface, but it is incredibly tough and with a good sanding you can really achieve a smooth flat surface. This primer is so tough, I can't scratch it with my fingernails, I love that because I know it will stay no matter what. Vallejo on the other hand is ridiculously delicate, can't sand and will scratch with anything. Once sanded this revell primer feels like ivory, and I know it takes paint well since I used it for my Q F3's passenger pilot. 

 

 

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Thanks for sharing Santiago. and good to see others using rarely mentioned Clover House lettering.  When available, I generally use dry transfers.  With dry transfers there is no messing with decal sets solution,  and  they can be applied to both gloss and mat finishes.  Santiago probably knows this trick, but others new to dry transfers might benefit from this tip.  I use light tack removable  clear Scotch tape to hold the lettering strip in position during the transfer process.  The tape is applied extending over one edge of the dry transfer so that it can function as a hinge.  In that way you can lift the transfer sheet and see if the letters completely transferred.   Clover House's catalog is worth checking out.  For PRR locomotives they have steam  sets covering pre and postwar lettering standards.  

Last edited by Keystoned Ed
MaxSouthOz posted:
SANTIAGOP23 posted:

Dry transfers are a superior product!

IMG_5352

That looks very good. 

Are they very popular?

Max, I think they are, but ther is a learning curve in using them. Once you start applying them there is moving them around like decals. And the catalog is not as wide ether. But the results are spectacular! I hope they continue to expand their offerings. 

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
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