DCS Remote

can you post some photos of the boards, s o  i may help you and point out where the board is loose and ill try to help you
!

Alan

I don't remember if it was the remote or TIU board (or maybe both?), but I was thinking Barry had suggested using something to hold the board in place somehow if it had come loose. I can't remember the exact material he suggested to use? Maybe he will be along to clarify. Obviously something non-conductive. 

I can't speak for Barry but I'm pretty sure it's a piece of foam . (not Styrofoam)

Just stick some foam like Gregg says on top to hold the board in place and reassemble.

I had in mind a piece of foam like from an engine cradle, but maybe I have just been using mine lately and that's where I got the idea? Not sure what that would hurt in a remote, but I hate to suggest something that might not be safe and I really can't remember his post?

Edit, GRJ to the rescue.

Barry had suggested using something to hold the board in place somehow if it had come loose. I can't remember the exact material he suggested to use?

You can use anything that's spongey and non-metallic.

Cheryl,

    Long ago when the 1st generation hand helds came out I had a similar problem,

mostly do to the kids repetitive dropping of the DCS hand held remote control, any way

Barry advised me to cut a piece of packing foam and insert it in the back of the hand held, just big enough to let the door set up properly, after doing this it made everything snug in the hand held and I never had a problem with that remote control again, the trick is getting everything tight enough to not allow any movement at all,

without over tightening any thing.   The little give in the foam packaging seems to take up the required space without smashing the board and causing any damage.

PCRR/Dave

I have tried all this, no go.  In order for it to work properly I must exert an extreme amount of pressure on the board and there is already a piece of sticky foam between the Trans. board and the main board.  I appreciate all efforts, at this point it would seem the only answer is to use the remote in a tethered application.  Thank you.

I took one apart once. It never worked again.

There may be an issue with the connection or possibly the transceiver board, perhaps have someone take a look at it.

Cheryl,

   I would definitely have it looked at then and have it up graded to fully rechargeable at the same time.  The batteries are better and last 10 times as long and recharging takes place in minutes.

PCRR/Dave

It does sound like something on the Tx board or in the connection between the two boards is damaged.

Repair by MTH or an Authorized repair person is probably the best option.

Dave, if kids or other dropping remotes is an issue, here's my solution, a neck lanyard:

Does that screw go through the circuit board?

RJR,

   Actually that is a darn good idea!

PCRR/Dave

GRJ, there is nothing at that point inside the case.  Would you believe that that is the reason I picked that point?  You must make sure you don't have any wires where you make the hole.

  Dave..dont put one on yours as you have a charging circuit there

I got a question, why does the boards require a pressure foam or what ever to hold them in place, is this a poor design, why can't something be done to make the remote work?how is the transmitter and other boards connected, just pressure points? im not sure can anyone put some pictures of the remote apart with the circuit boards photographed. There must be a permanent fix, if need be solder jumpers together or what ever it takes to make the remote work and be more Dependable?

Alan

Alan,

   Good question, and probably when MTH upgrades the hand held remotes it will be fixed in some permanent way, also not all hand held remotes have this problem, one of mine does the other does not.

willgee,

   Bill, Roger that had no plans for modification after your upgrade to a fully rechargeable hand held remote control.  One on the charger one working, no need to do any thing else. 

PCRR/Dave

I don't understand why the boards are not soldered in   or at least some type  of device (plastic wire tie) to prevent this problem. It's been like this since 2002.

 It's PITA taking the thing apart...

  the 2 boards use an interference fit multi pin connector(no soldering possible here)..the foam pads i have used were 1/4 thick by 1.5 x 1.5 inches and similar material that would come with a window air conditioner (open cell type foam). your plastic remote case once assembled keeps everything in place pretty much forever...or until a thumb wheel breaks

I have a feeling the new upgraded remote is going to be one of those new fangled smart phone thingies, forcing me to trade in my flip phone.

Alan & Gregg,

 is this a poor design, 

In  my opinion, yes, it is.

There must be a permanent fix,

I don't understand why the boards are not soldered in   or at least some type  of device (plastic wire tie) to prevent this problem. It's been like this since 2002.

The boards are not soldered in place because that would make a transceiver replacement very, very difficult.

However, commencing some time ago the remote had a piece of double-sided tape added to firmly hold the transceiver board in place. While that typically keeps the remote transceiver board from floating out of the socket, it really makes things considerably more difficult when it's necessary to replace the transceiver board.

I much prefer just putting a piece of spongey foam over the transceiver board to hold it in place. I've modified many remotes in that way and have never had a transceiver board so-modified float out of its socket.

I'm starting to suspect that Cheryl's problem is in fact a bent transceiver board pin that's not making good contact in the socket.

I have a feeling the new upgraded remote is going to be one of those new fangled smart phone thingies, forcing me to trade in my flip phone.

Everything that I've learned to date as regards a "new" DCS Remote tells that, if the forthcoming DCS app is a success (the 2nd app, not the initial free one), we won't see a new DCS Remote for a long, long time.

Was afraid of that, but everything is certainly pointing in that direction. It looks like this is happening in both camps too. I don't expect a new Legacy remote anytime soon either. Both manufacturers are showing a lot of excitement for the new apps for train controls. Probably a good idea for the younger folks and attracting them into the train hobby. They do like the devices and apps.

I will be hanging on to both my old fashioned DCS and Legacy remotes as long as I can.  

I was just kidding, I'm sure you checked before you broke out the drill.

I knew you were kidding.  That's why I included the "Would you believe...?"

On the broader subject, I think the remote is not bad, and only needs a little tweaking, like holding the boards together, battery case cover, and weak thumbwheel.  It is notable that while the TIU has had to go through several iterations since its initial issuance, the remote has not.

The problem with my remote was... I think I lifted more than the antenna when taking it apart. Some of the trace  circuits lifted off the board as well.. Impossible for me  to fix.   I'm a big MTH fan but my cab-1 from about 96 still works, been on the floor many time and the antenna is broken in half.

Barry,

I don't think any pins are bent because it cannot be seperated far enough.  But I do think that something on TX board is gone as it will not work at all anymore.  It will work tethered and eventually I planned to use it as a test bench system to do programming, etc..  I've basically set it aside for now.

Thanks guys, for all the input.

Hi does anybody know how to bring up the screen on  the remote for the battery and other engines settings like mileage and odometer etc. What feature do you use to bring those features up with!

Alan Mancus

Alan,

Menu/Advanced/Info

This and a whole lot more is all in MTH’s “The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

Does anyone know how to bring up the remote battery features and mileage and etc, on the DCS remote?

Alan Mancus

Alan,

Does anyone know how to bring up the remote battery features and mileage and etc, on the DCS remote?

Did you not see the post just after yours??

Look up 2 posts.

no what post after mine i don't see it! alan

no Barry menu/advanced/info only brings up all the engines, i want to bring up the remote battery charge condition and the odometer and other engine related features on the engines in the remote!

Alan

Never mind Bary i figured it out ounce the engine number came up i had to press the thumb wheel then it showed up!

Thanks for the info Barry.I'm waiting to get your book on DCS my train shop said they have ordered it.

Again Thanks

Alan

Alan,

menu/advanced/info only brings up all the engines, i want to bring up the remote battery charge condition and the odometer and other engine related features on the engines in the remote!

Yes, it does.

Then you scroll to, or enter the number of, the engine in which you're interested, and press the thumbwheel.

You really need my book!

Alan, Just take the remote and turn it on with no trains powered up.  Press buttons and see what they show.  Do it a couple of times and you will have the basics down.  G

George,

Pressing buttons "with no trains turned on" will result in several error messages.

I am talking about scrolling through the menu to see the different functions.  There is a lot that can be learned just with the remote.

I understand trying to send some messages to an engine can cause error or no engine on track.

To me it is like going through a computer menu.  See what the subfolders are and what is in it.  G