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Hello,

While my seasonal layout is simple it is on the large size and I run 3 Rail King engines at once.  I have used  Z1000s with controller as my lash up in the past.  No remotes.  However this year I thought I would give the inexpensive DCS Remote Commander a try.

Following the hookup sequence to the letter, I was surprised that upon putting power to the track the two engines immediately went into their start up sequence w/o my pressing the SU/SD button.

No bell, no horn, no movement but plenty of engine sounds, crew talk, and lights.

Reset factory default settings has been suggested however since I have done nothing to the engines since I bought them new this makes no sense to me.

Another suggestion was to reverse polarity to the track which I did.

That was a mixed bag for as I would now get the horn to function, there was a several minute delay from when I pressed the horn button and the horn actually blew.

The most alarming thing was that while I had been trying to get the engine to move/accelerate w/o success it suddenly shot forward at a high rate of speed.  I pulled the plug on the receiver before the engine derailed.

After that a fresh attempt was made using the Remote Commander and this time the engine did absolutely nothing.  I then hooked up the controller again and the engine functioned.

I have two of the Remote Commanders on hand and the result was the same for each.

Fresh batteries and pointing the remote towards the receiver were verified.

Any ideas?

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I have several new PS3 engines that I’ve used recently with a remote commander and I had to reset all of them first using the button sequence in the manual. I think it’s Sound Direction Minus… but it’s in the manual like @RSJB18 said. You should be fine after that. It works best on a simple loop of track. I think the signal can be interrupted by switches, etc. I’ve noticed some inconsistent operation when I’ve used it on larger, more complex floor layouts. It’s not the greatest but it should work well enough for basic operation.

@GregK posted:

I have several new PS3 engines that I’ve used recently with a remote commander and I had to reset all of them first using the button sequence in the manual. I think it’s Sound Direction Minus… but it’s in the manual like @RSJB18 said. You should be fine after that. It works best on a simple loop of track. I think the signal can be interrupted by switches, etc. I’ve noticed some inconsistent operation when I’ve used it on larger, more complex floor layouts. It’s not the greatest but it should work well enough for basic operation.

Thanks for your additional observation on the layout compatibility.  While fairly large, 14'X12' and elevated, my seasonal layout (at least this iteration) is a series of more or less concentric ovals.  One large perimeter loop and two interior loops.

Because of this simplicity I surmised that the inexpensive Commander would be a good fit.

Following the set up instructions I expected this to be a simple unbox and use which is why it came as such a surprise that it was not.

This morning I will do the reset procedure and let you all know.

@Former Member posted:

Thanks for your additional observation on the layout compatibility.  While fairly large, 14'X12' and elevated, my seasonal layout (at least this iteration) is a series of more or less concentric ovals.  One large perimeter loop and two interior loops.

Because of this simplicity I surmised that the inexpensive Commander would be a good fit.

Following the set up instructions I expected this to be a simple unbox and use which is why it came as such a surprise that it was not.

This morning I will do the reset procedure and let you all know.

For 3 loops, it might be better to wire the RC in passive mode (power doesn't go through the RC).

Run power to the tracks from the transformer as normal. Then run a pair of wires from the RC to the transformer track outputs. This will allow the RC to send the DCS signal directly onto the track without the added current load.

Mine is wired like this on a two track 4x8 layout and it works great.

2021-07-09 14.40.10

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  • 2021-07-09 14.40.10
@RSJB18 posted:

For 3 loops, it might be better to wire the RC in passive mode (power doesn't go through the RC).

Since the DCS-RC has a pretty anemic DCS signal output, I'd also recommend a 22uh inductor in series with the transformer leads that go to the track so you don't attenuate the DCS signal due to the low impedance of the transformer windings.

Thanks to all for their helpful suggestions.  

A simple factory default reset did the trick.  I did not take that suggestion to heart when it was made because I never changed the factory default in the first place and I do not have the capability to assign numbers to engines at this point.  So what was to be reset/undone?

Nonetheless in spite of my best efforts I succeeded with your help!

The generosity of your expertise is greatly appreciated!

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