DCS Remote Commander set-up issues UPDATE: How to do a factory reset?

You need to do a factory reset with the full MTH DCS before your engine will run with remote commander.  

Yep I'd agree with Chessie about the full factory reset. You might want to do some research about using the CW-80 with a PS2 engine. I may be wrong but as I remember the two are not always compatible and the CW-80 is not on the list of recommended transformers for PS2 engines.

As described above, I see 2 issues:

1) The CW80 does not play nice with MTH products. I'd recommend buying an MTH Z-1000. Great little transformer that WILL run pretty much anything, unlike the CW80. I've got two that I've had for 10 years - never an issue. 

2) The engine MUST be reset to factory default settings. The reset can ONLY be done via the DCS Remote/TIU set. 

I tried to use this remote with the F3 engine that came with the set and it doesn't work either. I suspect the reason is I have been using the engine on my full DCS system since I purchased it. Although I never tested the remote that came with the set, I assume that since the engine was used on a full DCS system it requires a reset to work?

BTW I did not edit anything on the full DCS system ... it found the engine and I selected it is all ...

Thanks for the replies guys. It sounds like I'll have to get it reset somewhere that has DCS - maybe my LHS can do it. I know I've reset it multiple times from the transformer, and it's been to the hobby shop for repairs before. Funny that it requires a reset through DCS, and even operating it with the full-fledged DCS system will also require a reset. I guess that means if you buy a brand-new MTH engine and use the Remote Commander right out of the box it'll work fine?

I've been thinking about getting a new transformer, but for what I'll need the Z-1000 may not have enough wattage. I plan on running 9 lighted passenger cars behind a command equipped engine. On my CW-80 all I really can run is 4-5, so I'll need at least 160 watts or more. Most of my other engines are Lionel and I've thought of getting a 180-watt brick with the direct TMCC lockon. I kind of wish MTH had a transformer between the Z-1000 and Z-4000, I'd probably buy one just for this purpose.

I used a 180 watt PowerHouse on my layout. I don't run long trains but the idea was it would power a few tracks at once ...

Bobby (& others),

You may find the following from The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition, page 201, to be helpful:

4. DCS Remote Commander Additional Considerations

There are a few additional items to note when using the DCS Remote Commander Handheld that can increase it's abilities. 

PS2 or PS3 Engine Reset to Factory Defaults

All PS2 or PS3 engines come from the factory with a DCS ID# that is correct for use with the DCS Remote Commander. If for any reason a PS2 or PS3 engine's DCS ID# changes to any other value, that engine will no longer be able to be operated by the DCS Remote Commander. In order for the engine to once again operate with the DCS Remote Commander, the engine must be reset to its factory default values. For an explanation of exactly how DCS ID#'s are assigned, refer to Appendix E: The Truth About DCS Engine ID Numbers, later in this book.

A PS2 or PS3 engine cannot be reset to its factory default values using the DCS Remote Commander. While a transformer reset will return almost all of the engine's values to their factory settings, it will not reset the engine's DCS ID#. It is necessary to use a either a DCS Remote and TIU, or a DCS Commander, to reset all of a PS2 or PS3 engine's settings to their factory defaults, including the engine's DCS ID#.

When using a DCS Remote and TIU to accomplish resetting the engine to its factory defaults, refer to the factory reset instructions in Part II - DCS Is An Operating System for Your Trains!, 5. DCS Menus, Advanced Menu, Reset Engine, earlier in this book.

When using a DCS Commander to accomplish resetting the engine to its factory defaults, refer to the reset factory instructions in Part X - HO Addendum, 1. DCS Commander Setup and Operation, Accessing and Editing Engines, Resetting Engines, earlier in this book.

This and a whole lot more is all in MTH’s “The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

yamawho - what Barry said.

More Other considerations: I have the Remote Commander, and a TMCC layout. I occasionally use the RC on a PS2 or PS3 loco (I don't run MTH as much).

- I power my RC from a separate Z-1000 on a separate circuit. Using this I have

run DCS and TMCC at the same time. Not much; just to experiment.

- I have had used locos reset to Factory by a friend, and they then worked with the RC.

- Some have not.

- Some factory-fresh PS2/3 locos have refused to run on my layout using the RC. They

are fine in conventional. They are at Factory Default, by default.

- Some PS2/3 locos will not run under my RC if there is another (non-MTH) loco

on the track, especially if that other loco is brass. If I move the brass loco to a siding

(blocked), the problem usually disappears.

- my layout was built in 1990 or earlier. It definitely isn't DCS-friendly, but the RC usually

doen't mind. Usually.

- your loco may be fine; your layout may be fine; they just may not like to date.

- all of the above is why I use and far prefer TMCC and friends. It's not perfect,

but none of this stuff happens with it. I like MTH locos, but they are always my

last choice, unless they are the only choice. 

Thanks for the insight D500 & Barry (I have your book BTW), I really appreciate your comments .

I pulled my DCS Commander (not the remote  model) out of the closet and using this on my xmas layout to run my F3 with PS3. I also tried to run my Lionel Scout with the Polar Express tender that has Railsounds and got a hissing sound ... it must not like the DC from the Commander.

It really is hit and miss trying to figure what transformer works with what ... I picked up a post war ZW transformer 275w today in super condition and will need to learn the in's and out's of using that one as well to run different engines.

As for the DCS system ... I don't feel comfortable upgrading my firmware to 4.3 from 4.2, doing a factory reset or changing sounds in my engines. There seem to always be consequences. 

They are at Factory Default, by default.

Not necessarily.

If an engine was test run with DCS by either the store or MTH and not factory reset via DCS, it would be new but not operable with the DCS Remote Commander.

Some PS2/3 locos will not run under my RC if there is another (non-MTH) loco

on the track, especially if that other loco is brass.

It's not that they're brass, rather it's that they're either TMCC or Legacy engines, both of which sometimes will degrade the DCS signal. If you have my book,you can refer to it for the fix.

This and a whole lot more is all in MTH’s “The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

Just contacted my LHS and they said they were unable to do the DCS factory reset with my engine. Anyone else know of a place I could send it?

You could keep running in conventional or you have 3 choices, one send it out to get it reset, buy a full DCS system or in my case since I have one of these, I decided to use it on my xmas layout. It works without requiring a reset. 

yamawho;

The DCS Commander doesn't need a reset of your engines because it is a FULL DCS system, just not a remote one. It uses the DCS address to ID each different engine.

THE DCS REMOTE Commander does not have this ability. To use an engine with it the engine must have the Factory default address.

You can use the DCS Commander to Factory Reset an engine.

D500, for those engines that did not reset properly, I suspect the power was not removed from the engine and the engine removed from the track prior to any other use of DCS.

This is a thing that can slip by others, they don't realize the engine will not set the Default address until powered off. Any DCS use can (doesn't always) trigger an error in the save address at this point.

Another point many miss when using a DCSRC on a loop of track (any DCS system actually). Not sure it's in the instructions with a set either, I don't have one to check.

Break the center rail on the opposite side from the lockon / power drop. If you have 2 power drops, make them separate blocks by gapping the center rail.  If you fail to do this the DCS signal will race around the track and collide with itself repeatedly, the result is poor signals and lack of response. Same thing with any passing siding, break the center rail somewhere on the siding, it's another loop.

Russell, just to be clear I did state the the DCS Commander does not require a reset to work with it 

Interesting comments about gapping a loop ... first I hear of this.

Then they don't have DCS set up. Are there any other  LHS in your area. That is how I got mine reset. Another thing to try is possible local club.

So the DCS Commander can do a full factory reset, just like the remote one (50-1011)? Might be worth having if I have problems with any of the engines, I could just reset them myself.

I believe only a full DCS system can do a factory reset ...

Yes you can. What you can't do with the Commander is "Recover" an engine. If, for some reason the Commander can't find it you are out of luck. I switched to full DCS a while ago but hod onto the Commander as a back-up.