DEAD PS2 5v BOARDS

Dozens of threads on the general topic of PS2 5V board repair. As you saw already, you did the "easy" known and relatively easy to change out components and one worked, one didn't and is still dead shorted. The problem is, there are diodes and other components on both sides of the board, and because the board stack is soldered, the success rate of repairs VS work and time put into the boards is a very low ratio.

My personal advice, count your losses and move on. You got lucky and saved one. The dead shorted one is dead. It's unlikely to just be a single component and replacing the components associated with a dead short can be several times harder than what you have experienced to this point.

Not to mention, the board you saved might pop in a different way despite your efforts. Or maybe you just won the lottery, and it works forever and never dies.

https://ogrforum.com/...d-2-5v-board-repairs

Example from this topic that is related

@Paul Lytle posted:

I finally got some time to dig into the boards. I started off with the boards that were causing an immediate short to the transformer when power was applied. There were 2 of them. Before separating the levels I removed the battery charge capacitor. I then removed the diode that covered where the pins were soldered into the board. After removed I was able to heat each pin and use my solder suction tool to remove all solder and loosen the boards. Note that the removal and connections on the board are very clean. Finally I was able to locate  failed diodes on the bottom side of the upper boar. Before I go purchasing diodes. Any suggestion on the rating of the diodes and what would cause them to fail? 2 boards same exact issue.

This post in that same topic shows the failed diodes https://ogrforum.com/...3#153744933597941363

I've given you the same resources I would use if I was going to repair them, but now having tried several over the last couple of yours myself with no real success to speak of, I wish you luck.

Again, remember when the diodes fail, they passed AC down the line to DC only components that may have failed or be damaged. Even in that thread, there was discussion it may have damaged the crystal oscillators and more parts swapping was done to attempt to make a
viable board.

Ps2 3V boards, entirely different story.

I echo Vernon's comments.  I've given up on the 5v Proto 2 boards.  When they come in for repair, I just update to a newer board or a self queen depending on what the customer chooses.

Some things just aren't worth the trouble.

Jim

And I'll jump in here and offer to take the dead 5V boards off your hands for a few bucks plus shipping. I could use the headers on some conversions I'm doing.

Offer gors for anyone in here!

The board is not a dead short. I put the board on the running chassis that I tested the first board on. The lights come on and my magnetic breaker doesn't trip.  Think my next move is to try another chassis and harness, if no luck, separate the two boards. As far as time is concerned this is my hobby I do it to kill time. That, and if my lady friend thinks I'm caught up she will soon find somting for me to do.       Thanks to all.          j