Skip to main content

Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions/comments on my earlier post about "dead spots" in the track and my questions about transformers.  In the aftermath, I purchased an MTH Z 1000 which seems to work fine---although I had to clean the dust off the unit after I'd opened it!  I'll set my two CW-80 transformers aside for now but may decide at some point to power my inner track (two main line track layouts about 12-13' in diameter) with a CW-80 so as not to overwhelm the system.

RE "dead spots" in the track:  I'm assuming I have the most recent generation of Fastrack since it's all been purchased in the past six weeks.  I realize that (like the dusty MTH Z 1000) some of this track may have been sitting on a shelf somewhere for years.  How do I know what's what re Fastrack?

And...I've used a volt meter to check track power after hitting a dead spot.  Strangely, I get positive readings even on the spot where the train "died."  I can run a lighted caboose slowly through the same area without lights flickering of extinguishing.  So it seems that I have circuit continuity...until the train hits that same spot a few minutes later.  Any thoughts here?

Should I use a pair of needle nose pliers to (gently) squeeze track connections?

I'd like to attach the track permanently to the foam blocks on the plywood as I'm wondering if the train moving on the track might cause shorts.  However, if I attach it while I'm still having problems...  Kind of a Catch-22 situation.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts anyone has on any aspect of this post.

Mike

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Mike,

Can you get to the engine in the spot where it stops? Is this a curve?

When it does stop, cut the power and go take look at the physical state of the wheels and rollers. A flashlight may help. See anything unusual?

Is this engine a steamer or diesel?

Check the wires on any trucks/axles that have a ground strap on the axle or roller to confirm they are attached.

As far as track and power, I wouldn't think that anything is wrong at this point. Look under that piece of track for something metal shorting the rails when the weight of train is on it. perhaps even swap that piece of track out with another.

 

John H posted:

A volt meter won't really show a poor connection. Using the ohms scale will give a little more indication of poor conductivity. Another method would be to use a car headlight to test different places because it puts a load on similar to a motor. Try the pliers and some DeOxit on the connections and see if things improve.

Pliers won't help with FasTrack. It will deform the machine crimps of the rail around the connectors. (Don't ask how I know) I have some used track where the connectors would rattle around when shaken. When it's assembled, everything pushes in tightly and makes a good connection.

If you can't find the place where you are having trouble run the engine or engines on the track at night or in a dark area and see if any connections give you a small yellow or blue arc effect as a small blue or yellow arc means a bad connection. If you use an ohm meter set it for a very high ohm setting so you can read the smallest amount of resistance.

Lee Fritz

I don't see, except for physical damage, how you have a "bad" piece of Fastrack.  I've certainly never seen one.  You can have loose connections or the like, but "bad" is kind of out there... 

Fastrack is three rails with the associated pins and most full sized pieces have a couple of straps joining the outside rails.  What is there to "go bad" unless you physically damage it, or of course you leave it out in the rain for a few months and it rusts away.

I have hundreds of pieces of Fastrack, never seen a "bad" one here or anywhere else.

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×