Decal or buy a custom stamp?

Use some Solvaset to flatten/de-emphasize the decal film, then overspray with Dullcote the next day.

The overspray will not "hide" the film; it's for protection against damage.

or try a dry transfer!

@Dave Koehler posted:

or try a dry transfer!

They too can be custom made, I'm assuming.

I think this might work!

https://woodlandscenics.woodla....com/show/item/MG711

Consider K4Decals.com, I have used many of his water slide decals with no issues, pricing is good and quick delivery. Check to see if he offers different shade of yellow, I believe letters and numbers are on one sheet. I am guessing your letter/number type is Railroad Roman. Apply Microscale Micro-Set  to settle the decal onto the painted surface.

@Larry Mullen posted:

They too can be custom made, I'm assuming.

They can, but it isn't cheap. Was looking into this and it was around $195 for a letter sized page.

@Larry Mullen posted:

They too can be custom made, I'm assuming.

If it's just numbers, look at Clover House as a supplier for dry transfers.

The keystone is pretty small, no? Applying transfers, especially individual numbers will be pretty tedious. You could cut a decal so the film overlapped the keystone. Then you would have no decal edge.

Pete

I always look for the easy way out even if it costs a little more. What Loco. are you working on ?   Does it have to be a particular number or just different from another one you have. It might be worth searching the parts sites as a lot of Pennsy steamers saw multiple runs. You may be able to pickup a boiler front with a different number.

I agree with Pete on the dry transfers. Usually you can secure the transfer with tape to keep it placed as you start to rub. Say the side of a boxcar. Your talking a vary small area doing a Keystone. Not saying it can’t be done. Decals would be easier. Some sets such as K4 Decals offer the Keystone itself with random numbers to place inside. Probably easier than dry transfers. The only issue. If the Keystone in place on your engine may not be exactly the same as the decal.

I model the Rutland. Their passenger engines had rectangular plate with raised letters at the bottom. Rutland RR. The numbers were above this. Luckily the majority of their engines were 2 digits. They come with the sheet from Highball Graphics and you place the numbers you want in the box. To big to fit on what’s there from the factory. I would paint a sheet of thin styrene gloss black on both sides. Place the number board on the sheet. Let it set and hit it with clear and then place the numbers inside. Doing it this way. You have a large sheet of plastic to slide the numbers along and place them. Rather than dunk them in water. I pin them with an X Acto blade and dribble water from an eye dropper and just let them sit in the puddle till they release. Then position them. Hit them with clear again. I use a pair of decal scissors from Micro Mark and carefully cut it out and place it on the factory board with glue.  You don’t have to worry about trimming decals to fit. The final cut out will take care of it.

Great thread !!!

Thanks to all posters !!!

CB&Q Bill

I too, have been using the decals made by K4. And while they have many positives, the film stock they are printed on is a little bit thicker, and thus a little more difficult to hide.

Microscale some time ago went to a much thinner film stock. Some have even complained the film is so thin you have to be extremely careful when soaking and then applying the decal. But on the upside, they are not nearly as visible on your finished project because of the thinner stock. On the downside with Microscale, most of their decals are either N or HO scale, with some limited selection in 0. But you could check their website to see if anything would work for your intended project. You might be able to use a keystone from a larger HO scale loco.

While kinda on this subject, did anyone make name plates for the 2500 series cars? I have been given a couple of extra cars, and hate that they have the same names. Thanks.

I would go with decals.    As mentioned, use a decal setting solution and get all the bubbles out.   Then overspray with a gloss or dull coat.    Generally the overspray makes the lines almost invisible if the decals are down tight. 

Once you try it and succeed, you can do any loco number you want.    If you buy a stamp, you only one number.

OK. I was just wondering IF anyone had made replacement car name plates for the 2500 cars? Only name that I can think of at this time is 'Silver Dawn" ?