Decal question

Start with a clean and glossy surface.  Use whatever method you like to get there. I like a clear spray like Testors gloss coat or Tamiya.

Regardless of decal type here is how I apply decals.

I cut the decal from the sheet as close to the image as possible.  I have a small pair of scissors that are sharp and easy to cut around small images.

Using tweezers I dip the decal in warm water for about 10 seconds.

I place decal on a damp paper towel and allow the decal to ‘cook’ as its called. This can vary by decal paper maker. It can be anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute or two. When decal moves easily on paper backing it is ready to apply.

On surface of model put two or three drops of water. With tweezers place decal on model body where you want to apply.   With your finger move the decal image off the paper just enough to use your tweezers to pull the decal paper from under the decal image. This will keep as much air out from under the decal.

Position the decal image in the exact spot you want it. With the slightly damp paper towel blot the water from the decal.

Making sure the decal is positioned in the correct spot, make a squeegee from the damp paper towel and from the center of the decal out to the edge squeegee out all the water and some of the glue. This will keep the decal from turning yellow as it ages.

After the decals dry for a day or two I apply a coat of Future Floor Shine with a 1 in wide soft sable brush that is only used for Future. Allow to dry overnight and all should be good!!!     

Good luck!

PS. Been a decal manufacture and artist for 35+ years now.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

-Eric

 

Eric, it's been a while since I've done decals too. You have the basics, but there a few tips I can give you.

 

• A smooth glossy surface is the easiest to apply decals.
• Try to trim the decal as close to the shape of the image as possible.
• Soak it in warm water. Once the paper curls, slide the decal onto the model.
• Use a little water to float the decal into the final position.
• Use the corner of a piece of Kleenex to wick away the excess water (a Q-tip runs the risk of stray cotton fibers getting into your work).
• Apply the setting solution. This dissolves the decal film and allows it to conform to the surface.
• If you have any bubbles, poke them with the point of an X-acto blade or similar sharp point. Then re-apply the setting solution.
• When you have it bubble free, apply dullcoat to seal.

That's what I do. Someone else may have more to add. 

 

Good luck.

Gee Dave, I'm a slow typist. I didn't see your post before I started, but it's nice to see that my method is so similar to yours.

I use Solvaset too but I thin it 50/50 with 70% isopropyl. With delicate decals, the full strength can soften the decal to quickly, and wrinkles cause shrinkage.... especially with thin stripes.

Decals go on to a glossy surface.

Wet area with a bit of water so you can position the decal.

Dab with paper towel to remove excess water.

Brush on a little 50/50 setting solution. You will have a little bit of adjustment time with that mixture.

Let completely dry. Remove any air bubbles, and reapply 50/50 solution.

The 50/50 may take a little more time, and a couple applications to settle the decal down over rivets and such, but it leaves great results.

The clear coat after dry.

Thanks guys for all the helpful information. I am also getting back into decorating my own rolling stock. However the task of applying decals is much easier than finding the decals these days. I have a 1978 Walthers decal catalog. It is really sad to look at the availability of decals back in the day compared to now, especially when manufactures such as Atlas and Weaver make undecorated versions of some of their rolling stock. Champ is also gone. When you do find decals, they are often old and dried out, a have a big price tag - the law of supply and demand at work. I also see where Mr. Glow has stopped making decals - at $15 bucks a pop!

 

I even have a bottle of Walthers Solveset that I purchased back in the early 80's and it still works.

 

Have a good weekend,

 

Richard 

 

Solvaset is good stuff. I do use it. But I wrote that for the model car guys and it is not needed for model cars.....no rivets!!!

Solvaset and Microscale can be dangerous....so beware!!! The decals I make myself are a bit more durable so I can use it.

My work...

 

I do wish we had more decals in O scale......I'm lucky I can make mine.....but I feel more folks would paint and decal if they were easier to find.

Beautiful, Dave.

Dave that is exactly why I thin the Solv-a-set 50/50, as most of the decals I have ever used are from Microscale.

Majoring in graphics, I cant add to the above. Good advice.

 

 Oh wait.. an eye dropper, or syringe to keep things wet with little drops is nice. Non-level, gloss surfaces, that wetness will bead, and then runs off easy.

Thanks for all the great info guys. I really appreciate it.

 

-Eric Siegel

this is one of those topics that need to be placed some where permanent for easy reference.

" Can someone briefly outline the steps for proper decal application on plastic surfaces?"

 

  Looks like you gotten great info on all the basics so i'll add a few variations. For decal application and setting the basic Micro scale instructions work well. The Microset/microsol combo will do most jobs. If you need a strong setting solution for places where rivets or other bumps are causing the decals to bridge over them then Solvaset is the stronger solution, just be careful if using Solvaset for the initial wet application as it can soften up wet decals enough to spoil them.

  If the car has a smooth painted surface the basic application method works well. If the car is rough or unpainted plastic then it's possible to decal over a thin wet layer of Future floor finish, the Future will seal under the decal and eliminate the white sheen that a rough paint surface imparts, and will also make decals stick well to unpainted slippery plastic so colored plastic cars can be decaled without painting them. To decal with Future just trim the decal and then paint on a very thin layer of Future in the spot where the decal will go then apply the decal to the wet Future and use the brush or a tissue to squeegee the excess future from under the decal. You don't want the decal to float on a thick layer, just sit tight against the car on a thin layer. After a few minutes the decal might wrinkle up a tiny bit but it will flatten back down as it totally dries.After it's dry a spray coat of Dull coat will blend the shiny future into the car body color. Future works well on smoother cars but since it doesn't soften the decals it's not as good over rivets or ribs.

   Some general techniques I've found to make it easier is trim the decals as close as possible with a sharp exacto knife or fine pointed finger nail type scissors(the  scissors are probably easier to use). Dip the cut out decal in water then place on a saucer in a small puddle of water till it slides off easily, don't force it till it's free all over it's surface or it might tear. Some decals require more time in the water and maybe a bit of finger massage on their back paper surface to loosen them up. Once it slides off the paper easily I slide it part way off then grip it with some fine pointed tweezers and place it in the thin Micro set layer (or Future layer) then use the tweezers points to slide it into the final alignment. Eyeball the decal carefully to make sure it's level and square with the car body or any nearby rivet lines or weld seams, and that any lettering has the proper spacing . Once it's where I want it I blot with tissue to get any excess solution off it then wait. Don't try to re-position a softened decal as it will tear, get it where you want it as soon as possible( if there's a lot of decals on a car side just wet and apply a couple at a time then a couple more after the first ones are in final position, etc.). 

  Decaling takes some practice but is a great skill to develop as it allows one to customize their cars as needed.......DaveB