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I'm putting a train around a Christmas tree for my father and was wondering if there is a remote unit that operates conventional O gauge?  If there is, what is the least expensive.  The layout would be no more than 8' X 10'.  I have an 1936 American Flyer Zephyr, original Polar express, Lionel GG-1, Lionel FM Trainmaster etc...  I just got a "New" MTH CNW E8 ABA from eBay that probably has some type of remote ability. Any suggestions would be appreciated.  

 

Thanks, Clark 

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Yes, and it can be done very inexpensively.  I purchased (all used) a CAB-1 remote (6-12828), a Powermaster (6-12867), and a Powerhouse (6-12866).  That's it--it was less than $125 for everything, and you can manage speed/direction/horn for your conventional locos.  The Powermaster varies the voltage to the track as you turn the knob on the remote.

 

You can substitute any transformer for the Powerhouse, of course.

 

Last edited by ams

You could use this, not still for sale from MTH but often on eBay.

 

$_57

Note that this IS NOT a DCS remote Commander. There are only 4 square buttons and a throttle.  DCS version has more square buttons.

 

It allows the remote to control voltage from the transformer.  Transformer connects to bottom of grey receiver, track connect to the tabs at the top. If you don't use realtrax, just connect the two tabs to wires going to the track.  Works on infrared signal... great to control a single conventional train.

 

They work great!  Wish they still made them.

 

Ed

 

ps. usually less than $40

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Last edited by eddiem

I am typically on TMCC but operate Conventional occasionally via the Cab 1 handheld linked to an I C Controls Track Power Controller[TPC]. I assume that a Lionel Powermaster is a newer version of the TPC.[see photo below of set up: TPC 400s linked to 180 watt Power house transformers].

 

You simply extend wires from your transformers Hot["A"] and Common["U"] to the Hot and Neutral screws on the TPC panel input. Then from the TPC's  "A" and "U" output terminals to the track center rail and outer rail.

\

The TPC has a Run/Program switch enabling you to use the Cab 1 to program the TPC for Conventional operation.

 

 

As already noted all that is needed is the Cab 1 remote, a Track Power Controller[or PowerMaster] and your transformer. I had a spare TPC 300 but I gave a lot of stuff away and I am unsure if it is still around. If I can find it I will give it to you.

 

IMG_1579

 

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Last edited by Dewey Trogdon

Track Power Controller, (TPC 300 or 400)

With Program/Run switch to Prog.  TR/  # 1 through 9/  L on the bottom of the Cab 1/ Set. Move the Prog/Run switch back to Run.   TPC  (Track Power Controller) is set to Command Mode.

 

With Program/Run switch to Prog.  TR/  # 1 through 9/  M on the bottom of the Cab 1/ Set. Move the Prog/Run switch back to Run.   TPC  (Track Power Controller) is set to Conventional Mode. 

Track voltage should vary with the rotary dial.  The TPC manual details conventional operation with the Cab1 hand held remote.

 

Last edited by Mike CT

 I have an 1936 American Flyer Zephyr, original Polar express, Lionel GG-1, Lionel FM Trainmaster etc...  I just got a "New" MTH CNW E8 ABA from eBay that probably has some type of remote ability. Any suggestions would be appreciated.  

 

Thanks, Clark 

If you are running multiple trains at one time, it's the Z4000 with the plug in handheld remote. The remote controls two tracks.

 

 

 

I just got a "New" MTH CNW E8 ABA from eBay that probably has some type of remote ability

If this is a PS2 or PS3 engine, you can use it with an MTH 50-1033 DCS Remote Commander, as seen by clicking here. You'll still need to operate your other engines conventionally.

 50-1033

It can be used with any transformer and track system, and the list price is $49.95. Click here to see a list of the dealers that have it in stock.

 

If you decide to get this, drop me an E-mail with your track and transformer, and I'll tell you how to hook it up.

 

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Last edited by Barry Broskowitz
Yes, but you have to first take your loco to a full DCS setup and have it reset.  Even brand-new from the factory PS3 engines won't work with this out of the box (speaking from experience).
 
But if you already had DCS, then i don't know why you would buy this thing (I had bad experience with it).
 
 
 
If this is a PS2 or PS3 engine, you can use it with an MTH 50-1033 DCS Remote Commander, as seen by clicking here. You'll still need to operate your other engines conventionally.

 50-1033

 

Last edited by Martin H
Originally Posted by eddiem:

You could use this, not still for sale from MTH but often on eBay.

 

$_57

Note that this IS NOT a DCS remote Commander. There are only 4 square buttons and a throttle.  DCS version has more square buttons.

 

It allows the remote to control voltage from the transformer.  Transformer connects to bottom of grey receiver, track connect to the tabs at the top. If you don't use realtrax, just connect the two tabs to wires going to the track.  Works on infrared signal... great to control a single conventional train.

 

They work great!  Wish they still made them.

 

Ed

 

ps. usually less than $40

This would be my vote as well, as it would run all of your trains (of course, only one at a time) conventionally.

 

If I remember correctly, the remote and lock on also came with a 75 or 100 watt brick and was offered in several railking r-t-r sets.

 

Jim

Originally Posted by jd-train:
Originally Posted by eddiem:

You could use this, not still for sale from MTH but often on eBay.

 

$_57

Note that this IS NOT a DCS remote Commander. There are only 4 square buttons and a throttle.  DCS version has more square buttons.

 

It allows the remote to control voltage from the transformer.  Transformer connects to bottom of grey receiver, track connect to the tabs at the top. If you don't use realtrax, just connect the two tabs to wires going to the track.  Works on infrared signal... great to control a single conventional train.

 

They work great!  Wish they still made them.

 

Ed

 

ps. usually less than $40

This would be my vote as well, as it would run all of your trains (of course, only one at a time) conventionally.

 

If I remember correctly, the remote and lock on also came with a 75 or 100 watt brick and was offered in several railking r-t-r sets.

 

Jim

Jim,

 

Yes, I stand by my inexpensive, easy to use recommendation.  Plus, if you put two IR receivers (the grey box) at opposite ends of the layuot, you might be able to get two receivers to run two trains.

 

My read is the original post was asking  for a simple one train remote.  I just saw a few on 'deBay with a transformer, cheap!

 

Ed

Martin Jim, & Ed,

Yes, but you have to first take your loco to a full DCS setup and have it reset. 

Not necessarily.

 

First of all, the engine is stated as having been purchased as "new". (Although, "new" on E-bay is open to interpretation.)

 

Second, even if it's been run, it would have to be have been added to DCS at some point and not been Factory Reset, or it would still be able to work fine with the DCS Remote Commander.

 

Third, if it needs a Factory Reset, there are hobby shops and clubs where that could easily be done.

 

Fourth, the older infrared remote noted above is increasingly difficult to find, since it's been out of production for several years. Further, that remote only allows the bell, whistle/horn, direction, and speed control. The DCS Remote Commander allows startup and shut down sounds, remote uncoupling, and PFA operation, as well. This is lots more play value!

 

Fifth, I volunteered to walk him through its setup. That includes assisting him in resetting the engine to factory specs if he can get it to me.  

Last edited by Barry Broskowitz

 

Clark

I located my I C Controls TPC 3000 upgraded version 1.3. If you plan to acquire a Cab 1 and pursue the Conventional control procedure we indicated, I will give it to you gratis. Otherwise I prefer to give it to someone who can use it.

 

If programmed as Mike CT described, it will operate all of the engines in Conventional from Cab 1 that you listed in your initial post. Subsequent to his instructions, all one has to do is press TR[track] on the Cab 1, press Set , reset the TPC switch to Run and you are in business ready to operate the Red Knob, start and control the speed of the Locomotive. Brake, Boost, whistle/ horn and other features are described in the Reference Manual [which I no longer have].

 

Clark,

 

I think to decide on what remote options are the most viable, you really need to decide on which trains that you want to run under the tree.

 

If you want to run the E8 ABA set, under Command, this is different that wanting to run your trains conventionally. 

 

To me, nothing would scream Christmas more than running a prewar Zephyr or Polar Express under the tree. 

 

Jim

Last edited by jd-train
Originally Posted by Dewey Trogdon:

 

Clark

I located my I C Controls TPC 3000 upgraded version 1.3. If you plan to acquire a Cab 1 and pursue the Conventional control procedure we indicated, I will give it to you gratis. Otherwise I prefer to give it to someone who can use it.

 

If programmed as Mike CT described, it will operate all of the engines in Conventional from Cab 1 that you listed in your initial post. Subsequent to his instructions, all one has to do is press TR[track] on the Cab 1, press Set , reset the TPC switch to Run and you are in business ready to operate the Red Knob, start and control the speed of the Locomotive. Brake, Boost, whistle/ horn and other features are described in the Reference Manual [which I no longer have].

 

<tt>Dewey,

I could use this if Clark does not take it, been looking for one to
complete my layout. I believe I bought a PH-180 from you and need that
to go with it.

Thanks in advance,
Art</tt>

Here is a link to the TPC (300/400) manual.    Click on the underlined phrase to link.

 

Track Power Controller, (TPC 300 or 400)

With Program/Run switch to Prog.  TR/  # 1 through 9/  L on the bottom of the Cab 1/ Set. Move the Prog/Run switch back to Run.   TPC  (Track Power Controller) is set to Command Mode.

 

With Program/Run switch to Prog.  TR/  # 1 through 9/  M on the bottom of the Cab 1/ Set. Move the Prog/Run switch back to Run.   TPC  (Track Power Controller) is set to Conventional Mode. 

Track voltage should vary with the rotary dial.  The TPC manual details conventional operation with the Cab1 hand held remote.

Last edited by Mike CT

I do not know if it is still available but the Train Engineer unit appeared to be the simplest unit available to convert and control a conventional engine remotely. It was originally developed by the now defunct Aristocraft trains but is now being marketed by a new company called Crest Electronics. I have not seen much advertising on the system of late but you can see it here:  http://www.crest-electronics.net/home.html

I use the Powerhouse/ Powermaster / CAB1 setup for mine; set to TR 01... There is another way; a ZW-C; it again uses the CAB1/Legacy remote so you'll need a system, but you can control 4 TRAINS on 4 DIFFERENT TRACKS.

 

Check out Mike's ZW-C Video on YouTube.

 

 

I have this setup waiting in the wings; with 4x 180W Powerhouse bricks (Thanks David). For when I put up my dream layout.

 

Thanks,

- Mario

Last edited by CentralFan1976

ClarkA,

   These gentlemen have covered just about all the different ways to run conventional engines with a hand held remote control.  The one I like best so far is of course the most expensive, using the full DCS and Z4K transformer with the side receiver, and the hand held remote control.  My old conventional Tin Plate engines run like a dream with it, and the great thing is it controls P2 & P3 engines also, along with most operations of Lionel Legacy.  Simply a fantastic control system, just recently I had my hand held DCS remote controls up graded to be fully rechargeable units.

PCRR/Dave

 

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

I bought A cab one power, master and signal receiver (I forget the correct name) at the OGR booth at Allentown 2 weeks ago for $80. I have them set up on my christmas layout. I run two trains with them powered by an LW transformer. The outer track is my custom christmas train pulled by a K-line Mikado with TMCC. My inner track train is My dads passenger set built in 1915. Lionels first year in "O" gage. I get a kick running a99 yearold train with a remote. Thats being backwards compatible!!!

Originally Posted by Dennis LaGrua:

I do not know if it is still available but the Train Engineer unit appeared to be the simplest unit available to convert and control a conventional engine remotely. It was originally developed by the now defunct Aristocraft trains but is now being marketed by a new company called Crest Electronics. I have not seen much advertising on the system of late but you can see it here:  http://www.crest-electronics.net/home.html

Downside of the TE system was that it did not have a conventional fallback. With the TE board installed, the engine can only be run with the TE remote.

 

I spoke with the Aristo folks about this at York once. They didn't think it was a drawback--just carry the remote and run the engine anywhere there's powered track.

 

---PCJ

Originally Posted by Dennis Rempel:
Dennis,  
The confusion is caused by two separate systems, one TMCC/Legacy by Lionel and the other is DCS made by MTH. Both I am sure are fine system but I realize getting all of this at once is confusing. Just pick one or the other and spend a little time studying them. I know Lionel has a many videos of the TMCC/Legacy system, That is where I went to learn about this before I made a decision on which way to go and there are also some good books out that explain the systems. I have a fellow club member who was confused about this but with a small amount of time he is now one who runs conventional and Command Control on his layout, concurrently but on separate loops. If you would like help with this you can contact me by email.
This is great stuff, don't let the confusion scare you off.
Ray 

I want to run my conventional layout and engines with a remote too but everyone chimed in with different answers and I'm so confused I'm just going to give up on it and continue to run by my ZW handles.

 

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