Directions: Installing KD's on an Atlas SW Switcher

Well? no. I think they are about the same as any though. You have to get the mounting height correct is #1. So some type of home made shim to get the correct height is needed to be made by you.

Look at the mods of this switcher for inspiration maybe?

 https://bobsobol.smugmug.com/T...SW1200-for/i-nKPdk92

do you have a tap for the type of screws you'll be using? I use 2M metric x 8 usually. I use longer ( x10 or x12) when I go thru a thicker shim to grab the metal pilot. So you have to have the proper tap for the threads.

I mark a center line on the pilot and the custom shims I make to be sure that the coupler is straight and centered properly before I drill.

I run about 20 of these locomotives and all have been modified for Kadees.

I make up plates that screw to the original coupler fittings on the loco then screw the coupling to the plate. Roo.

Did you install them or are you still waiting for another idea ???

Roo and others,

Just yesterday, I attacked the existing coupler box and ripped it apart.  Then I removed the two screws, measured the height of the attachment area while on the track and decided on the overset shank KD.  Since Atlas did not have the courtesy of using the same hole spacing as KD, I used just one screw.  Both couplers are in and at the correct height.

Thanks for asking and thanks for the tip on the mounting plates.  I have just two switchers to do so I will not be making mounting plates.

Thanks again,

Ed

If you make the KD coupler box holes slightly larger and drilled outwards, you can get a second screw in.

Engineer-Joe posted:

If you make the KD coupler box holes slightly larger and drilled outwards, you can get a second screw in.

I have tortured a few into place using this technique.  It works but does not leave you feeling like you've done good machinist work.

To my mind the plates that I make are the best idea as they use the original screws that hold the Atlas coupler box no alteration to the locomotive then you just screw the Kadee to the plate and it's all over, someone should mass produce these plates I make them by hand. I have a professional drawing of the plates somewhere in my files if anyone is interested for free. Probably no market for them now if Atlas have stopped making the loco. The aluminum is 55 thou thickness. I will try and find the drawing everything is a mess here at the moment. Roo.

Roo posted:

To my mind the plates that I make are the best idea ...

I'd agree with that. They use the outside holes which are better. The ones inline with the coupler will squeeze down on the coupler if overtightened.

They take care of two problems at once. Getting the coupler height correct and providing correct mounting holes.

I've seen modelers use just one screw, and use one screw with glue. I'd prefer two to keep the coupler straight and still removable.

Bill Chaplik posted:

Engineer-Joe posted:

If you make the KD coupler box holes slightly larger and drilled outwards, you can get a second screw in.

I have tortured a few into place using this technique.  It works but does not leave you feeling like you've done good machinist work.

I have cars and engines around ten years old now and they held up fine. The fact that I use metric screws helps here I believe. The 2M screws are smaller than the inch ones I believe? It doesn't take as much drilling to get them in.

I dunno if I'm flogging a dead horse or Locomotive here but here is the drawing of the Kadee mounting plate it means you don't have to change anything on the Locomotive if you want to return it back to original besides it's better engineering practice if you want to be a fussy puss. It's in Metric but most of you blokes like me can work in both Metric and Imperial the screws for mounting the coupler to the plate can be imperial whatever you have lying around.  Roo.

Roo posted:

I dunno if I'm flogging a dead horse or Locomotive here but here is the drawing of the Kadee mounting plate it means you don't have to change anything on the Locomotive if you want to return it back to original besides it's better engineering practice if you want to be a fussy puss. It's in Metric but most of you blokes like me can work in both Metric and Imperial the screws for mounting the coupler to the plate can be imperial whatever you have lying around.  Roo.

Thank you for the mounting plate diagram.  Useful, although I am an old English measurement type of guy.  This could easily be made of plastic too for those who don't want to do the extra work necessary to produce the beautiful metal versions.  A plastic version would not reduce the effectiveness of your fix.