Do you paint your rocks first?

Good topic, I'd like to know the answers myself.  Thanks for asking.

My procedure:

1. Set unpainted castings in place with hot glue.

2. Grout around edges with Sculptamold.

3. Optional - coat the Sculptamold with Structolite plaster for texture, being careful to keep plaster off casting.

4. Paint everything with either light tan or light gray flat latex house paint (depending on the part of the country modeled). If you would rather use washes for all coloration, prime everything instead with flat white latex paint. This step is important to take care of the problem of different materials absorbing color differently.

5. Color rocks and surrounding surfaces with various acrylic washes.

6. Dry brush lightly with off-white acrylic to highlight edges.

7. Dab some dilute white glue or matte medium on places where vegetation would sprout. Sprinkle on various shades of green fine turf.

8. Add bushes, weeds, etc. with full strength white glue.

Jim

I have had a similar issue but with mixing plaster of paris rock molds and using lightweight joint compound to fix them to the layout. I always apply colors after the molds are in place, but you don't have to do it that way.

I just like painting everything after its in place.

The issue with mixing the two is one absorbs paint noticeable differently than the other. And the light weight compounds starts to dissolve.

I stopped and now am using Plaster of Paris through out the process.

Use the search feature and search under rock molds.

I posted some lessens learned that I found after not making scenery rocks in a few years...

https://ogrforum.com/t...with-better-pictures

I like Plaster of Paris for its ability to pick up the fine details of a mold.

The problem of how materials absorb color is the reason for priming everything first with flat latex house paint.

A large plaster casting itself may absorb washes of color differently in different areas of the same casting. It's just the nature of plaster/drywall compound/Sculptamold etc.

The priming step is even recommended by some hydrocal structure kit makers. Downtown Deco, for one, recommends a priming spray before applying color to its kit structures.

The flat finish painted surfaces will then take washes evenly with no blotchy surprises regardless of how many different materials are used.

It will also stabilize dry wall compound if that is used as grout or surface coating in your scenery making. Otherwise some compounds tend to dissolve or soften when washes are applied - one reason I prefer a plaster product.

If done with a light hand on the castings, the latex primer coat will not obscure any detail, but will make final coloring so much easier.

Jim

Jim,  

Interesting idea - I will try priming things first with the flat latex house paint.  

I had started on one section where I did not prime.  I actually loved the way different areas of the same casting absorbed the washes of color differently!  It made me look like an artist with a diversity of colors and intensities which seemed very natural.  I was afraid of loosing that.  

A few quick questions:

1) Do you use 100% flat latex or do you dilute it (to avoid loosing detail)?

2) When I treat it with washes, should the washes now be more concentrated since the plaster will not absorb the same?

3) What color latex?  White? tan? light grey? Does it not matter?

Thanks for the great ideas.

Although it is counterintuitive, a lot of us believe that the best priming color is flat black. You then spray or dry brush the desired stone colors so that the black pokes through in places where you want deep shadows. This complements the bright-white highlights that most people end with, and produces a great sense of depth and the illusion of bright daylight. It works far better than ending with a thin black wash, since the latter inevitably darkens places that you wish to keep bright.

I keep the brush very wet by dipping into water between dips into the paint. This keeps the paint from obscuring detail. The amount of dilution isn't critical, but I dip into water more often when doing the casting area and less frequently over areas such as Styrofoam or Sculptamold that need more priming.

The dilution of washes is also not an exact thing. Start light (more water) and add color until you get the amount of color you want. If you go too dark, just wait until it dries, re-prime, and try again.

The color depends on the area you are modeling. If the basic color is brown, start with tan; if the basic rock color is grayish, start with gray.

Consider Pete's idea too about starting with black. It really works, particlurly if the overall color is to be grayish.

...and don't skip the final step where you drybrush the highlights. It's hard to take that first drybrush of off-white to your "finished" painted rocks, but take the plunge. It really adds a new dimension to rock color. Just remember - very,very little paint on the bristles - wipe most off on a cloth - that's why they call it drybrushing.

That's what's good about Pete's method, too, in that it forces you to drybrush light on dark.

Jim

yes Ive made a couple of these!!

Jim&Daddy,WOW incredible accomplishments you have made.Thanks for the pics and advice given here.Nick

great question and answers

thank you

j