Drive wheel slipping on axle

My only thoughts would be to make sure that you de-grease the axle and wheel before applying the glue, otherwise it may not bond well.  I assume that the wheel slips off of the axle.

NWL

I had a similar issue with my 249 steamer. I used some blue loctite on the splined axel. It has been running fine for 6 months with no slippage since. I opted for this over glue since it could be removed easily. 

Blue may work, but red is stronger (and beware, color doesn't insure hardness; some "reds" never cure hard by design, but the nut will never come off alone.  

The best might actually be locktite bearing retainer... green last I used it.  A bearing fit is closer mechanically to this fit, than threads on a bolt.   It is actually designed for 1/2"+ if I recall right, but I used it on smaller fits too. (I never had to remove it. It either worked "forever" or failed and I shipped a part ND-Air

I do not know if the wheel comes off the axle yet. I am looking for an answer before i disassemble the engine and loose some of the parts while it is sitting on the bench.

I would use Loctite 680 Retaining Compound - useful for this purpose.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.c...nds/loctite_680.html

Retaining compound is the answer. Red loctite is for threads. 

I'm in the Loctite 680 Retaining Compound camp, I use this for those kinds of issues.  It's also great for putting the steel rims back on diecast wheels if they come loose.

This sounds stupid, but it's something my father has successfully done several times.

Cut a tiny piece of aluminum foil to wrap around the axle end (just the width of the wheel hub).  Twist the wheel as you "press" it back on by hand and it will usually fit tight.  He mostly does it on electric locomotives where quartering isn't necessary.  Some of those fixes are still running strong without issues.

Red loctite is also great advice and probably a better solution.

Super glue will not hold. In addition, super glue will coat the surfaces such that other glues and bonding agents will not work because they cannot get to the actual metal surface.

Do not use super glue.

Interesting about the tin foil, not sure I want to try it but have a question. Does the wheel come back off without a wheel puller/damage to the wheel or axle?

My experience is once you put something on with Loctite retaining compound, it stays on!  I used it on a flywheel once, and there was NO WAY to get it off.

I also read a long time ago that you might be able to obtain a more secure fit by knurling the shaft with a pair of giant nippers.  Disclaimer: I've never actually pressed a wheel on, so I'm learning from this thread just like you!

@Ives1122 posted:

This sounds stupid, but it's something my father has successfully done several times.

Cut a tiny piece of aluminum foil to wrap around the axle end (just the width of the wheel hub).  Twist the wheel as you "press" it back on by hand and it will usually fit tight.  He mostly does it on electric locomotives where quartering isn't necessary.  Some of those fixes are still running strong without issues.

Red loctite is also great advice and probably a better solution.

Actually, I like the foil idea better as the retaining compounds are not conducive. The foil fill is an honest press of compacting metal. If it works in practice is the question. Other soft metal foils might work better yet.

Ive actually done that large scale though there was a bolt retainer and sheetmetal vs foil. it was a conical press needing a puller for removal though. The balance was ok.

I have some green loctite from a while ago. Is it supposed to be a thin liquid?

GRJ,

What's the difference between Loctite 660 and 680 Retaining Compound?  I recall a thread a while back (Shay driver?) where you recommended 660.

660 is a paste for filling gaps on worn mating surfaces. The example that Loctite used is a key that is loose in the key way.  680 is a thin liquid for retaining circular fits.   For a wheel loose on an axle I use 680. 

@John H. Shetler posted:

Interesting about the tin foil, not sure I want to try it but have a question. Does the wheel come back off without a wheel puller/damage to the wheel or axle?

Shouldn’t damage anything but the foil perhaps.  You’re basically just Making the axle diameter a hair larger to get a tight fit.  It should come off again no problem with a good tug.

this solution is mainly used for if you have one original wheel that is loose and don’t want to rewheel the entire motor.