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I have installed a bridge rectifier to fix my extremely loud E-unit (see attachments).  At first it seemed like a magic repair, the E-unit was absolutely silent and I was a very happy camper. However, after about 4 laps around my track, I stopped the train to check on it and saw the E-unit coil was so hot it was smoking slightly.  I let it cool and tried it again without the rectifier connected and it's okay, no harm done. I tried it again with the rectifier and again, it got red-hot after a few laps...

Any help is greatly appreciated! Bill C, Wayne, NJBridge Rectifier E unit Wiring 1IMG_4356IMG_4360

Attachments

Images (3)
  • Bridge Rectifier E unit Wiring 1
  • IMG_4356
  • IMG_4360
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The coils run hotter on DC. In addition to the rectifier, you need to limit the current to acceptable levels. Additionally it is possible for the DC current to magnetize the e-unit  plunger leading to degraded performance.

However, I've never had an e-unit that I needed to power with DC (and it is impossible to count how many units I have serviced). I've always been able to rebuild them and get them to operate satisfactory on AC. In my opinion, running on DC masks the symptom and doesn't address the cause (something dirty/worn/degraded out of spec) which then magnified by the AC pulses.

Here is a video showing the difference in just shaving a bit off of the top of the pawl so it seats properly. Others have reported adjusting the pawl arm achieves the same:

Others have added some padding to the top of the plunger to soften and limit its travel. Sometimes it is easier to replace the plunger.
Other links of interest
Last edited by bmoran4
@bmoran4 posted:

The coils run hotter on DC. In addition to the rectifier, you need to limit the current to acceptable levels. Additionally it is possible for the DC current to magnetize the e-unit  plunger leading to degraded performance.

However, I've never had an e-unit that I needed to power with DC (and it is impossible to count how many units I have serviced). I've always been able to rebuild them and get them to operate satisfactory on AC. In my opinion, running on DC masks the symptom and doesn't address the cause (something dirty/worn/degraded out of spec) which then magnified by the AC pulses.

Here is a video showing the difference in just shaving a bit off of the top of the pawl so it seats properly. Others have reported adjusting the pawl arm achieves the same:

Others have added some padding to the top of the plunger to soften and limit its travel. Sometimes it is easier to replace the plunger.
Other links of interest

Thanks for the video bmoran4, I think I'm going to take your advice...

@BCianci posted:

...Would a current limiting resistor work? Or perhaps half-wave rectification?

Filtered half-wave, maybe. I've never tried it, but it will probably buzz if unfiltered.  A current limiting resistor would have to be sizeable to dissipate 20-25 watts, like the size of a Lionel rheostat.

The best solution is to rework the pawl... Lionel has demonstrated that E-units can be made to work nearly silently... most of my quiet ones are late prewar & early postwar.

Last edited by ADCX Rob

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