Easiest way to power track accessories without using track power?

In simplistic terms, run your accessories to a transformer/brick and put an inline switch to turn each accessory on and off…..if able construct a small control panel to place all your accessory switches and “neatinize”your wires..

I guess I am a little confused by the question.

It seems to me that all you have to do, as suggested above, is plug in a new power source, run the hot wire straight to the accessory, run the neutral wire to a toggle switch in your control panel, and then run a separate section of neutral wire from the toggle switch to the accessory.   

Or maybe I am missing something here?

Mannyrock

Assuming that most, if not all, your accessories use the same relative voltage (say 14 acv, as an example), connect the outputs of your new power source to the red and black inputs of a multi-port terminal block like the 12 or 24 port MTH one shown below.

The disconnect the wires from each accessory from their track power connection and connect them to the output ports of the terminal block.

You can now turn all your connected accessories on/off by turning the power source on and off.

It is pretty much as simple as running 14v to the accessory. You can have a switch in the 14v line to the accessory or on the ground side have switch that breaks that (might be difficult if you are using a ground bus with a drop off of it near the accessory). If using a terminal block to distribute power, then the switch (if doing the hot side) would be on the output side.

If you want it to be train activated, then run 14 v to the accessory and wire the ground through an insulated track section (that has the outer rails insulated from each other and one of the ground rails insulated from the rest of the layout ground). It would act as a switch that activates when the train runs over it.

Steve - if you need to do this (can't say one way or the other) - If you are using track power for all accessories then you are using AC voltage to power everything. You can simply leave the ground wires as is. All you need worry about is re-routing the power wires. If you can get to it easily I recommend using a transformer with the proper amp rating and with a handle to power your lights and accessories. Using a handle will allow you to bring the voltage up to various operating volts and will protect the lights/accessories from voltage overshoot as long as you make it a practice to move the handle back to zero volts when turning the power supply off.  If you use the accessory post of a transformer or wall wart which is instant on then as mentioned above run the power wire to a toggle switch but again have it in the off position before turning on voltage so any overshoot drains away before you turn on lights. I have two CW-80 transformers in which I used the programmable accessory post set at 14 volts to power Z-stuff relays. Unknown to me both transformers spiked to 32 volts on turn on. The transistors in the relays were good to 25 volts only so they kept blowing up on me until I figure out what was going on.

If you have accessories that are actuated by isolated track then you must keep the ground from your new power source tied into track ground anyway. Simply run the ground wire from the new power source and the track power to one terminal connector then branch out from there to the layout.
The new power supply will have its own positive power run. You will have to run wire around around the layout then disconnect the positive wires from your accessories and connect to the new  power run.

I have separate power supplies for track, turnout machines, IR detectors, signals and lights (probably overkill). The ground for the turnout machines needs to be common with track ground. Every thing else has its own ground wire system. This is especially true for all lights since I run DC to power them - incandescent or LED. DC makes the bulbs run cooler and helps avoid burnout.
Joe

I’m in the process of redoing my lights and upgrading many to LED. A simple universal AC adapter (multi voltage adjustable for LED lights) , then your on/off switch or as I used a dimmer switch to control the lights brightness too. Then these wonderful wonderful terminal blocks with barrier jumpers. Followed by your lighting choice. Very price friendly as well!

Wow! Thanks guys!

So many great replies so quickly. You guys are great and I will start working that direction with a separate power source and switches.

I can understand the advantage of a transformer by being able to control the voltage and that does make sense for some things like lights etc.

But I think I basically just need on and off capability with room to grow so given that, should I just get another power brick like the powerhouse 180 or is that overkill?

Thanks again.

Steve - one thing I recommend to save on wire and ease of troubleshooting is to set up 'power docking stations' at various points of the layout.   Essentially, the path is like this:

Power from your source:

Wired to a terminal block:

Then send wires to terminal blocks functioning as docking stations strategically placed around your layout where you have accessories needing power:

The you wire from the 'docking stations' directly to your accessories as needed:

You can add push button wiring from the wires between the docking station and accessories themselves or back at the terminal block you can wire one switch to all.   I recommend two bus lines - one just for lights (which can all be turned on/off at once from a master switch) and one just for the accessories which operate in some way.

For example: say you have a town with 10 buildings with lights.  Wire 1 hot and 1 common wire from Post 1 of the terminal block to the closest 'power docking station' and then run 10 hot and common wires from the 'power docking station' directly to the individual buildings.

-Greg

A 180W PH is always a good transformer issue is 18V might be needed for certain solenoid activated accessories but if it’s just lights then 18V might cut its life in half. We run two separate accessory busses with all of our track buses they all use the same Neutral as all transformers are phased. This allows us to keep DZ2500 switch machines at 12V plus some lighting then 14-16V for some if high current operating accessories

Have you taken any voltage measurements? How much track voltage do you have with everything but an engine powered?

Thanks again. Great advice and exactly what I was hoping to see. Great pics especially.
I currently have 18.0 - 18-15 all around the track without an engine running. With one engine it drops a little but not much.

For comparison, one of my PH 180 powers 180' of track only. I see ~18.8 with no engine, and it drops to 18.5 with two engines running 10 smph.

I use 2 KW transformers protected by fast acting circuit breakers and TVSs to route power to terminal strips. The KWs are phased with transformers being used for track power:

@turkey_hollow_rr posted:

For comparison, one of my PH 180 powers 180' of track only. I see ~18.8 with no engine, and it drops to 18.5 with two engines running 10 smph.

Ah that makes sense.

It might be worth adding an auxiliary power supply to run switches and accessories separately if you plan to run passenger cars or others that can have a fair amount of current draw. I think another PH 180 would be overkill, unless you think you may expand some day. Or just to have a spare, it certainly wouldn't be working very hard. I dug around and found an old 13-14 vac, 2 amp power supply from a long gone PC stereo set to power switch motors, etc.

Thanks Dan.

@Richizzle07 posted:

I’m in the process of redoing my lights and upgrading many to LED. A simple universal AC adapter (multi voltage adjustable for LED lights) , then your on/off switch or as I used a dimmer switch to control the lights brightness too. Then these wonderful wonderful terminal blocks with barrier jumpers. Followed by your lighting choice. Very price friendly as well!

Great idea! Thank you!

There should be a rule that all accessories including track switches be powered separately from track based engine power and rolling stock lighting. From an electrical standpoint, this is the most trouble free approach, especially for complicated and larger layouts. Separating accessory power from track power also allows for experimentation with accessories on DC power, which many times enhances performance.

As I change the power for the switches over to the non-track source, I’m going to remove the controllers from the switches. Is there any issue doing that? It looks fairly simple and will definitely clean up the look/wiring on the layout but I’m just asking to be sure?