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Recently had a customer who ordered a large number of reconditioned O22 switches for a show they were assembling a layout for. Time was of the essence, and we discovered we were out of out normally supplied insulator pins. One of our guys came up with an excellent emergency sub. He took a chunk of normal 14 gauge solid (not stranded)  house wire. Then from the edge of the wire went back about an inch, put his strippers to strip off the insulation as you normally would, except he only moved the insulation towards the end of the wire about 1/4". He then cut the wire flush with the exposed wire left on the spool and ended up with a piece of wire an inch long, with the copper wire flush on one end, and recessed back 1/4 inch or so on the other. The result was a nice strong substitute for the fiber pins, and the switches arrived in time for the show. We did warn the customer that because these insulators did not have the raised center piece he had to be a careful that the rails did not touch each other. We tried it several times with both a switch junction and just some track, and they seemed to work well and were very strong because the wire was still inside the insulation. I am quite sure one or more of you have already figured this one out, with maybe a better solution, but I don't remember seeing it anywhere. With the local train shops closing up and those that are left seemed bound and determined to not support items for the old tinplate, we will probably need to start being a lot more creative. Speaking of which, how about a sub for the insulators on the center rail. Too often when we try to steal one from a dead track they break apart. Any ideas anybody? I keep toying with insulation that is over wires, but so far any wide enough is usually to thick. Next up will find an old inner tube and try that I guess.

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I keep a healthy supply of various radii track, as well as steel pins and fiber pins.  For the just in case situation.  Heck, sometimes when I am at a train show I just buy some pins just to make my jeans pocket feel more useful.  Same thing with rubber tires, tape measures, knives and screwdrivers.  Cant be too handy or have too many of them around the layout or garage.  On the subject of tape measures, I recently went shopping for some more.  Just needed little ones for around the layout.  Prices started at $5.00 and up for a cheap, noname 12 footer.  On the way out of the Lowe's store I saw a package of 4 high visibility Stanley tape measures for $10.00.  They were flourescent green and black.   The package had 1 -25ft , 1 -16ft, and 2 -12 ft.  All four were rubber coated. 

I think this is an interesting approach, but curious if copper wire wouldn't just bend over time if there was any sort of stress on the joint to make the rails uneven, and if no such stress exists, you are just as well off putting nothing in the pin.  I might do this if I need one pin because I lost one or some such, but to build a layout I can't see it.  

There is such little distance between the rails. I really think a solid copper wire would be every bit as secure as a piece of plastic. A lot of good suggestions, I especially like the one that said be prepared! Anyway,  thanks for the responses guys. The urgency by the way was a club was putting together a from scratch layout for some county event, don't know any more.

Having a couple O22 switches out in the workshop being cleaned for a friend, I tried another option...

If you have some styrene rod....Evergreen #213, 0.100" dia., for instance...it works just great.  And, if you cut a thin hoop of an appropriate wire insulation you can slip this over the length of rod to function as the spacer to keep the adjoining rail from touching.

OTOH, we (LHS) must have "eleventy-seventy" packets of the correct O insulating pins at the store.  But, as in your case, they're there...and I'm here at home....and if I needed a fix in a pinch, well............

Hey, FWIW....it was handy for me!

KD

For 3rd rail insulators, get some gasket paper at a car parts store.  It is cheap and very durable and comes in various thicknesses.

A cheap replacement for a constant voltage plug for a 022/711 switch is a blue crimp on terminal.  Much cheaper than a Lionel plug and stays on better and you have a choice of the method of connecting to the crimp on terminal.

 

One of the greatest experiences I have in watching you guys is the high degree of Yankee ingenuity. The I will find a way attitude unfortunately is becoming a rarity in our world today.

I will be trying the water bottle option today! and will be checking with our local auto parts store for some thin gasket material. Thanks guys. This was fun.

Thanks guys, we are getting requests for insulated track sections to use for switching purposes. I know most of you guys are great Yankee engineers, but many of our customers just don't want to fool around with that stuff, so your inputs are really great. I tried the water bottle thing, but it split on me, next stop the auto parts store. Do you buy rubber or cork or ?

The big problem with all of these solutions for pins is that they only provide one of the functions needed.  For best results, you want a pin that mimics the shouldered design of the originals to prevent the gap from closing w/o notice. A plastic sprue from a model kit can be turned down, tapered, or melted to provide both the locating and insulating functions. Once you get a sample made to fit, they can be duplicated quickly.

Thanks guys, we are getting requests for insulated track sections to use for switching purposes. I know most of you guys are great Yankee engineers, but many of our customers just don't want to fool around with that stuff, so your inputs are really great. I tried the water bottle thing, but it split on me, next stop the auto parts store. Do you buy rubber or cork or ?

Center rail insulators from junk track sections.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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