Erie 3444 hobo & cop godola. Siezed motor

Have you taken it apart yet?

need a tighter spring or shorter string.  No tension with not allow the string to stay engaged.

@Edmund Schwartzel 060518 posted:

need a tighter spring or shorter string.  No tension with not allow the string to stay engaged.

Thanks edmund. It doesnt turn at all. The magnet conects to motor but nothing happens and it is causing a short. I will pull the check tension and spring. Thanks again.

@ADCX Rob posted:

Have you taken it apart yet?

No not yet. That was next. Thanks Rob

There is no "motor" as such- it is a vibrating metal armature acting upon a string around a pulley to obtain motion. It very quickly (and loudly) vibrates (60/sec) back and forth, kind of like a barber clipper or electric razor. When the armature is pulled towards the magnet, the string tightens just enough to grip the pulley and cause the pulley to rotate a slight bit. When the armature relaxes, the string is just slack enough to release the pulley instead of rotating it back again. Since this is happening 60 times a second, it appears that the pulley is (relatively) smoothly rotating, pulling the film loop.

The armature must vibrate (oscillate) in the presence of the magnetic field to "pull" and "release" the string but not actually make contact with the magnet. As such, the gap between the armature and the electromagnet is essential to the vibramotor operation (there is no make/break circuit involved). If all else seems correct with the car, carefully bend the armature bracket to create this gap.

For proper operation, the string must loop around the pulley 1.5 times and the correct tension must be imparted on the string by the spring. It is also important that both drums with the film sprockets turn freely and that the film is still flexible enough to freely move around the two drums.

N.B. The string itself is a specialized de-waxed braided nylon 12lb test fishing line.

When you get it apart, check the insulation on the wires feeding the motor.  After so many years we find a lot of dry rot where the insulation just cracks off.  It sounds like when you flip the on switch you complete the short circuit.

Once you get that sorted out, follow the instructions Rob gave you and you should be gold.

Thank you all, Dan, Uber, Rob, Edmund. I took apart, adjusted string tension spring to 13/16, made sure air gap 1/16, checked wires I dont see any dry rot. The gap clicks shut when you turn on, but no buzzing. Film is flexible the spindles for film turn easily. I am using Fastrack to test, dont know if that makes a difference

@Überstationmeister posted:

The gap is essential to the vibramotor. The metal armature must vibrate to "pull" and "release" the string. If all else seems OK, carefully bend the armature bracket to create a gap. Note that the string must loop around the pulley 1.5 times and that the correct spring tension is essential.

Thanks uber. Really appre iate help. I will recheck. I can't tell if string wrapped 1 and half times. I will rework everything. Last question is armature suppose to open and close while switch is on or just close and then buzz. I get the close part but am getting no buzz after.

@ROB O GAUGE KID posted:

I get the close part but am getting no buzz after.

No close!  That plate is supposed to vibrate in front of the coil w/o ever touching it.

Thanks again everyone. Took spring off. Cord makes it around pulley but isnt long enough to wrap around 1 half times. So i can pull it tighter but there isnt enough to wrap. So, other than gap which i have adjusted to 1/16, verified spring at 13/16. I'm assuming then that the string being not ling enough is where problem might be. The only other variable is the fastrack which supplies an instant 18v, but I'm guessing that aint the problem. Thank you all for your patience

Where do I get a new string or should I just use sewing thread??

@ROB O GAUGE KID posted:

Where do I get a new string...?

Use the correct stuff available HERE.

The above listing shows 'sold out'.

Another source for the braided string 345-80 and (2) eyelets 342-129 is here.

The service manual page is here.

Larry

Thank you very much Larry,  ADCX Rob, Uber and Edmund Greatly appreciate links,  help,  explanation and repair manual pages. I rwill get with Jeff at Traintenders. Have a great nite everyone

The 18v may not operate it well.  These linear motors vary on their perfect voltage, but it's usually much less than 18v.  It is best this gets a variable ac supply.

I thought the armature may also shunt the coil's power when it is pulled enough.... (might have been another non-train linear motor)

It is essentially an electromagnet and spring return. With power applied it you could feel it pulling if you held a screwdriver close. (electromagnets get hot fast fyi).  I'd verify pull there first, then thread the needle.

Thank You Adriatic! 

Additionally I emailed Traintenders he sent me additional schematics. I found I didn't have the grounding washer either.

I have ordered all the parts I will keep you all up to date (more than likely more questions. LOL). 

Thanks again everyone for everything