ERR upgrade question, what shows on CAB2 screen

As I look closer the MTH pin plug is different than the one that would go into the ERR board, of course.  I am guessing those little pin plugs are available all over.  Where do people get those little plugs?  DigiKey or mouser?

thanks

There is a hot lug on the board for a smoke unit. The four pin has heavy enough wire as long as you have an unused wire. As long as you programmed the R4LC with code 4, you can turn the unit on and off from the remote. In TMCC mode, you press aux 1 and the + button. In cab 1 mode, it’s aux 1 and 9. To turn it off it’s aux 1 and - or aux 1 and 8. You might not need to press aux 1 on the legacy. 

Rear coupler just plugs in. 

Tony H posted:

As I look closer the MTH pin plug is different than the one that would go into the ERR board, of course.  I am guessing those little pin plugs are available all over.  Where do people get those little plugs?  DigiKey or mouser?

thanks

If you can’t find the plugs, you can un-pin the mth plugs, put a piece of heat shrink over the ends and slide them on the pins on the board.

Set your cab2 to R100 mode as your ERR board will have 100 speed steps if you set it in that mode(read the instructions on how to do this, it’s very easy) then all of those icons will populate. They’ll also populate if you put the cab2 into TMCC mode for the loco

Ok, how do I get the second screen to show up?  I am in TMCC mode, but I only see the first image.  I did program it with code 4.

the tether has 4 wires, two go the motor, the other two are red and black, they go to power/common, so there are no left over wires.

Matt, I will that a shot in the AM.  

thanks

Press the button unde the current Engine ID, enter engine ID number.

Press info, use red wheel to scroll over to control.

Press button below R100

Press info to exit.

As for the smoke, you will need to run an additional one wire tether or change out the tether if you want it to be remote control. You could run the one wire up against the MTH tether.

When you have the engine ID entered,  you press the info button and the name screen should pop up. From there you can select the loco type, control type and sound version. Use the scroll button to select the options at the bottom of the screen.

Ok, got the “second” screen to show, so that is good.  With the smoke unit it has the normal on and off switch, and the unit works great.  If I wanted remote control access, not sure yet due to extra work, would I disconnect the manual switch and just run that wire to the ERR board?

now just to find the two wire tab to plug into the board for the coupler.

The switch is not needed unless you ever plan to run it in conventional with the smoke off.

The coupler connections are JST-EH family connectors, they're available on Digikey or Mouser.  An inexpensive crimping tool that works well with these and a host of other Lionel and MTH connectors is the IWISS IWS-2820M.

For my ERR upgrades, I use the MTH 10-pin tether and mating connector.  This allows me to have smoke and headlight control, and also send the chuff signal back to the tender for fully synchronized chuffing.

If you'd like more realistic smoke performance, you might consider my smoke enhancement products, the Super-Chuffer II, and the Chuff-Generator.  Besides the enhanced smoke performance, they'll give you stuff like Rule-17 lighting and automatic cab light control.

Matt Makens posted:

When you have the engine ID entered,  you press the info button and the name screen should pop up. From there you can select the loco type, control type and sound version. Use the scroll button to select the options at the bottom of the screen.

Ok, wait a second. Are you saying that setting the R100 setting in the cab for that specific engine changes the board to 100 speed steps. Doesn’t that have to be programmed at the err level. Then set to r100? 

The err boards are set at 100 from the factory. 

However, the keystrokes to set the boards to 100 steps are easy.

Speed Selection
Activate 32 speed steps: AUX1 + 0 + AUX1 + 0 + BRAKE
Activate 100 speed steps: AUX1 + 0 + AUX1 + 0 + BOOST

SPFord27 posted:

The err boards are set at 100 from the factory. 

I know that. But, if it were changed. He would have to set that first. Plus, what are the anomalies that occur with the the err set at 32 speed steps and the cab at r100.

No big issue, the speed curve would just be different, you'd be a full speed when you got to about 1/3 throttle on the graph.

Matt Makens posted:

Set your cab2 to R100 mode as your ERR board will have 100 speed steps if you set it in that mode(read the instructions on how to do this, it’s very easy) then all of those icons will populate. They’ll also populate if you put the cab2 into TMCC mode for the loco

Shawn can’t read, my first post mentioned this. You should run your trains, then this won’t be such a mystery to you. I saw no reason to put the same stuff in the second post. The board doesn’t care about the r100 mode, it just goes faster sooner

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The coupler connections are JST-EH family connectors, they're available on Digikey or Mouser.  An inexpensive crimping tool that works well with these and a host of other Lionel and MTH connectors is the IWISS IWS-2820M.

For my ERR upgrades, I use the MTH 10-pin tether and mating connector.  This allows me to have smoke and headlight control, and also send the chuff signal back to the tender for fully synchronized chuffing.

If you'd like more realistic smoke performance, you might consider my smoke enhancement products, the Super-Chuffer II, and the Chuff-Generator.  Besides the enhanced smoke performance, they'll give you stuff like Rule-17 lighting and automatic cab light control.

John, I am guessing these would work?  Just want to make sure what I order fits the board.

thanks

https://www.digikey.com/produc...2/455-1000-ND/527224

https://www.digikey.com/produc.../455-3103-ND/6009479

Yep, those are the connectors for the couplers.

Ok, got the parts from DigiKey and the back coupler now works via the remote.  I thought I would give a try to connect the smoke unit tot the board.  I need a “tether” or some way to connect the single wire from the engine to the tender.  I know I could upgrade the MTH tether, but since it is a Rail King, it does not have any other features except the smoke unit, I would like not to go through the hassle.  I am ok with just the standard smoke u it, it kicks out a lot. What have anyone used as a single wire tether.  I know it might look a little weird, but most people will never see it. 

Does Digikey sell a male & female connection that would work.  It can’t be that big.

thanks

Something like these?

https://www.digikey.com/produc...D/CP3-1003-ND/992139

https://www.digikey.com/produc.../839-1289-ND/6206242

I use RC car servo connectors and old receiver pins for one wire tethers and then put heat shrink on the female end. If I am doing a two wire tether I use a male and female MTH plug. For the one wire, a stiff piece of wire will work for the pin and you can get the pigtails for servos from a LHS or online. If you want to go that route, I have the pins and the female end that I can set up for you. You would just need to lengthen each end of the wire. If you want one send me an email.

I prefer to roll my own, much more compact.  Obviously, you can use black wire instead of gray, this was an antenna inside a steamer shell.

These are the raw materials.

John, do you have a link for those?

Go to eBay and search for machine pin header, tons of choices.  For these I break the pin out with wire cutters and solder directly to the pins.

Thanks, I will give this a shot

Thanks to all, I now have remote control of the smoke unit.