Eyeing a 1999 PS-1 MTH Doodlebug: how do I check for the "three clanks?"

IIRC the MTH doodlebugs weren't part of the list of proto-1 that were most susceptible to the "3-clanks" problem.  However a very low or bad battery can lock you into neutral w/ idle sounds.  If the store owner permits a test, also bring a small phillips screwdriver and brand new 9 volt alkaline battery to swap out the original white MTH white 9v nicad battery for the temporary test.  You can then power up the d-bug to see if you get normal start-up sounds and can then move fwd and rev from neutral.  Also test the horn, bell and passenger sounds.  You can then remove the temporary alkaline and then reassemble when the test is done.  FWIW, I still run my PS1 d-bug but with a new battery or BCR (I forget which).  Good luck.

You should put in a new battery or BCR before applying power to this unit.  The existing battery is likely dead and applying power could do harm.  The store owner, not a train guy, may not be enthused about you taking the cover off.  If it does not work, will you take your battery/BCR back?   May be doable if you talk it through with the owner in advance.

Bill

Thank you both, Keystone & Bill!    Perhaps taking a printout of your responses to show the shop owner will offer a little convincing!     Thank you, again!       Ron

Keystone posted:

Bring a small phillips screwdriver and brand new 9 volt alkaline battery to swap out the original white MTH white 9v nicad battery for the temporary test.  Then power up the d-bug to see if you get normal start-up sounds and can then move fwd and rev from neutral.  Test the horn, bell and passenger sounds.  You can then remove the temporary alkaline and then reassemble when the test is done. 

Keystone, I have a detailed photo of the bottom of such a doodlebug and can see about 12 phillips head screws! LOL!   Do you know which are the critical ones for separating the shall from the frame?

RadioRon posted:

Keystone, I have a detailed photo of the bottom of such a doodlebug and can see about 12 phillips head screws! LOL!   Do you know which are the critical ones for separating the shall from the frame?

I believe there are 6 Body Mount Screws: 1 at each corner and 2 along the center sides.

I agree with keystone a picture is always worth a thousand words! usually 6 screws but not always!

Keystone posted:

RadioRon posted:

Keystone, I have a detailed photo of the bottom of such a doodlebug and can see about 15 phillips head screws! LOL!   Do you know which are the critical ones for separating the shell from the frame?

I believe there are 6 Body Mount Screws: 1 at each corner and 2 along the center sides.

Thank you so much for the help on this!   I really appreciate it!     Ron

Hi Ron, hope the engine works out for you. I have had one for years and it still runs great. I repainted mine to Milwaukee and use a couple of K-line 15 inch heavy weights behind it for a local passenger runs. Don

scale rail posted:

Hi Ron, hope the engine works out for you. I have had one for years and it still runs great. I repainted mine to Milwaukee and use a couple of K-line 15 inch heavy weights behind it for a local passenger runs. Don

Nice!   Thank you!

And remember PS/PS-1 locos, at start-up, do NOT come out of "reset mode" if voltage is above 10v.

Ron

The DB isca nice piece.  Got the PRR.  Run it with the 1970 BROADWAY LTD cars from the 1970's Lionel set on O31, or with the Weaver scale baggage and RPO on 42+ trackage.

Great piece of rolling stock and I have brought about a half dozen back to life by installing a fresh battery before placing the bug on the track.

scale rail posted:

Hi Ron, hope the engine works out for you. I have had one for years and it still runs great. I repainted mine to Milwaukee and use a couple of K-line 15 inch heavy weights behind it for a local passenger runs. Don

Got to looking at your photo more closely again, Don... and that paint job really does look nice!  Thanks for sharing!

How do you replace the battery in one of these things, please? I, too, have one of these bugs, but I haven't run it for about 20 years. I took the body off, but I can't see a battery anywhere. The owner's manual is not particularly helpful. It pretty much says, "Replace the battery …", but it doesn't say how.  Thanks for any help.

I just realized that this DB dates from about 1995, give or take. The box states that it is equipped with a DCRU electronic reverse unit by QSI. Does that make a difference?

It might not have a battery.  I have the C&NW version and it does not have a battery.  The manual was used for multiple units, with and without a battery.

Here is a post about mine, some inside pictures, no battery.

https://ogrforum.com/...29#84072378326988529

That is just like mine - no battery. So, if I put it on the track and fire it up, it should work, yes?

Regardless, thanks very much for the info.

No battery = No sounds other than horn. Also the non-sound unit would have manual couplers.

Yes, just run it like conventional.

Thanks, everyone. I just tried it and everything works fine. I hope I can say the same thing in 25 years.