I have some C-liners, most with the stock drive except for one which has had both trucks remotored with some very scarce remotoring kit. I would like to think about building an H10-44 or an H16-44, perhaps using Lionel, MTH, or other shells. From what I can tell in photos, the H16-44 shell is a little coarse in the details, can't see much, detail-wise from photos of the H10-44. Any recommendations? I would even consider an Alco S-2 or an SW-1, although I know the trucks aren't right for these.
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Sorry I can't help you with your question, but I recently picked up one of these engines on eBay for almost nothing.
It's interesting, because not only does it have both trucks powered (was that the norm?), but it has an enclosed pilot, which I've never seen before on any examples of this model. A close inspection shows it to be "stock"; no indication of any surgery, the body/pilot is all one piece. It has directional-controlled back-up lights, which are kind of cool, runs really well and, as it turns out, is hand lettered in Pennsy freight green; only the 3 "Keystone" logos (front and both sides) are decals. Was equipped with MDC couplers, which I have replaced with KDs...
When I figure out how to down-load photos from my new phone, I will attempt to post some pictures, in case anyone's interested.
Mark in Oregon
I have 4 of these that I double powered. The originals all came with only one powered truck. Also all originals had the big open pilots for a european style coupler.
If you have a double powered one, it was most likely customized. Also closing the pilot and painting Pennsy green was custom.
On mine I shaved off the cast hand rails and put on wire ones. And one is a B-unit I kitbashed from 2 As. I also closed i the pilots and put on Kadees.
With those trucks, I think the best choice is the H-16-44. A number of roads had them with C-Liner trucks including Pennsy. The early ones had a different truck, maybe an ARA standard truck like an Alco RS1.
Very nice. I (and I bet others) would like to see pictures, if you have some...
Mark in Oregon
I will try when I get home. Visiting my son now.
Cool; have a nice time.
After you posted your first response, I took mine apart (again) and still see no indication that the enclosed pilot was attached "after the fact". I will take more photos and will post as soon as my son shows me how to download them on to the mac.
Mark in Oregon
Strummer, it wouldn't have been added; the overly large original hole would have been filled. There is no other option, the casting was made like that, and no other manufacturers offered models of this locomotive.
Yes, the process I used was to fill the pilot. I glued a piece of thin styrene across the front and sanded the edges smooth. then I filled the cracks on the side edges and sanded them.
Strummer posted:When I figure out how to down-load photos from my new phone, I will attempt to post some pictures, in case anyone's interested.Mark in Oregon
I'm certainly interested. Re the phone, just plug it into a USB port and it should open.
Yea, I think I need to get the proper cable. As soon as I do, I will post photos...and will take close-ups of that pilot. Perhaps my son will take some with his Canon...
Mark in Oregon
"Image Not Found"....so says my computer.
Mark in Oregon
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Amazing. Those photos were in my post when I hit the send button. I wonder where they went?
I too can no longer post photos. It is ok; you have seen all my stuff.
Wish I had turned one of these things into bronze while Dennis was still experimenting. I do like F-M locomotives.
Mr.Bloy: All-Nation drive? Did you do it? If so, I would really like to see how it was done. I bet it pulls a ton...
Mark in Oregon
Not I, a kit was available at one time from All Nation to convert the C-Liner, the images are from items for sale on the bay, I thought they might help with info for future projects, you can tell pretty much how it all goes together not to hard to duplicate. cTr...( Choose the Right )
CN6167 posted:Strummer, it wouldn't have been added; the overly large original hole would have been filled. There is no other option, the casting was made like that, and no other manufacturers offered models of this locomotive.
Upon very close inspection in direct sun light, I do see a very slight seam on the inside of the pilot where the original hole was filled in. So you are all correct, it is an AHM shell.
Like everything else about this model, the workmanship was very well done. Not bad for $11.50...will post photos when I can.
Happy New Year to all.
Mark in Oregon
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Very nice job. I had a B unit at one time; the glue that had been used reacted to the plastic and some areas around the "screening" was swelling a bit. I sold it on eBay for probably more than it was worth...
Mark in Oregon
If you're looking for something FM to convert to, the Lionel H16-44s offer a good starting package, and you can find a non-powered one easily.
Here's Dave's
One thing to keep in mind, is not all H-motors had the FM trucks. For example, the UP's (and subsequently the AC&Y's), and others, had AAR trucks.
Good luck!
-Mario
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Say, that looks pretty good. Any more photos?
Mark in Oregon
Strummer posted:Say, that looks pretty good. Any more photos?
Mark in Oregon
Mark,
Dave is selling his FM on this forum, just check it out there for more pictures of his work. It looks great.
As for the H16-44s, check out this site: http://ohiorr.railfan.net/gallery.html
also, Google will help.
Thanks,
Mario
What did you use to fill in the fans on the front of the B unit?
Mark, I bought a B unit on eBay many years ago that had the glue reaction you describe. I wonder if I bought it from you. If so, small world....
Wow, wouldn't that be something; could have been, I guess. In which case, I change my comment from "probably more than it was worth" to "probably didn't get enough for it"...
Mark in Oregon
Pete Trunk of his O scale Philadelphia and Erie had these FM custom built with the AHM- FM trucks that you described!
The bodies are chopped down Lionel Postwar style FM shells. Underbody detail is scratchbuilt... but you know you might be able to buy them from Lionel Parts dept.
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I do remember it was disclosed in the listing. It was a great job on the kit bash, too bad on the glue. I had wanted to do one for a long time so it gave me an idea how to do it and I used the frame over again. My Dad had the same thing happen on an AHM HO caboose he kit bashed. Looked great for a year, then started to swell.
Mine went to Milt Sorenson in Idaho, in exchange for an O Scale live steamer. As I recall, the fans took about twenty applications of "Squadron Green". Bondo would have been better. Finish with auto body primer, lacquer based glazing putty, and 600 wet sand paper.
The joint is probably best done with JB Weld and interior reinforcements.
About 40 years ago I cut and spliced a pair of Rivarossi FM C-liner A units to create a B unit. Cutting and fitting went well and I only had to use Squadron Green on the roof where the fans were. The hard part was making the PRR train-phone antenna masts. I used flat stock brass soldered to flat head 00-90 machine screws, counter sunk into the plastic roof, and held in place with nut from the inside. I had more patience and less discretionary funds for trains back then!
After one of the small Rossi truck mounted motors failed I decided to re-powered the two A units with All Nation drive kits (see Stephen Bloy's post for photos of the AN drive) . The drive worked fine for a few years but over time the sintered steel wheels pitted badly. At the time my layout used steel rail and arching was common - especially with the C-Liner. The pitted wheels picked up rail grunge further adding to the arching/pitting cycle. My practice was to clean the wheels just before hosting a monthly train group operating session - that got old fast.
In the early 1990's Car Works imported their FM Baby Trainmaster in O scale and I was able to buy 3 pair of brass dummy FM trucks. The two A units were again repowered - this time using Overland end tower gearboxes, NWSL flywheels, and Pittman can motors. Twenty years later they still look run nice - now DCC'd with QSI sound decoders. My C-Liners have served well in O scale longer than the prototypes did on the Pennsy!
Ed Rappe
PS - MTH also imported C-Liners - but from pictures they appear to have incorrect length and wheel diameter AAR B trucks
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Ed, Video please!!!!!!!
Ed,
Those look really nice. I'm still working on putting a weaver drive in mine. I bought some parts from you a while ago. I'd be finished but we moved in June and that has slowed down all the train projects.
CentralFan1976 posted:Ed, Video please!!!!!!!
Never mind...
Thanks for posting the 2010 video's of my railroad - the Horseshoe Curve scene sure looks better with scenery. One thing the video demonstrates is that HO decoders can be used in some O scale diesels. The Centipedes, C-Liners, and Erie Builts running in the video all are driven by QSI "HO" 1.8A Revolution U decoders. I replaced the Revolution-U decoders in the Weaver passenger sharks. Those are the heaviest diesels I have (brass bodies, large factory lead weights) and each unit has a pair of China Drive motor trucks. Under full load they were drawing around 2 amps each. The other units draw around 1.5 amps each on the grade. The Weaver Sharks are now powered by QSI Titan Magnum decoders.
Ed Rappe
Ed
Are those C Liners your MTH, or the converted AHM models? Sorry to be slow on the "up-take", but I didn't catch which is which...
Mark in Oregon
Tom D. posted:I do remember it was disclosed in the listing. It was a great job on the kit bash, too bad on the glue. I had wanted to do one for a long time so it gave me an idea how to do it and I used the frame over again. My Dad had the same thing happen on an AHM HO caboose he kit bashed. Looked great for a year, then started to swell.
Yea, that was me. I bought it that way, so had no idea how it was done, or what type of adhesive had been used. I seem to recall you contacted me and told me about your father's bash; it sounds familiar...do you still have it?
Mark in Oregon
O Scale Railroading, the predecessor to O Gauge Railroading, in May 1980 published an 8 page article by Bill Losee on how to build a C-Liner B unit by chopping AHM A units. My Zerox copies of the article are rather poor but legible. Email me off line if interested in getting a copy of the article.
Ed Rappe
He threw it away a long time ago when it started swelling. He used testors plastic glue on it which was what the local hobby shops sold for building models back then. After that he only used Walthers Goo. Goo was a type of rubber cement I think.
Ed R,
Great video! Superb modeling, even without scenery.
Ed K
If anyone is interested. I was working on a 3 rail conversion of the AHM C-liners I have the A-B-A. I will try to post pics later. NOTe this is incompleted and is in my WIP bin and I would be willing to sell them.